adw
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Everything posted by adw
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This is the tooless adjustment , as others have said there should be a ratchet plate on the guide bar that appears to be missing on the new bar, I have never seen this part as spare. I can sort a part number out if you wish for the correct bar.
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That is the impuse, who on earth said it would run without one? If the cylinder has no impulse then fit a nipple into the crankcase and take to the cab.
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Just a short sharp blast with the impact gun, too much and it is possible to shear the flywheel key, i speak from experience.
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The electronic units are differnt, the 01is for the 242/42 and the 02 is for the 281/288the diffence is due to the diameter of the flywheel.
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Are we sure its the coil, 9 times out of 10 its the electronic box, its hard to imagine a faulty wire between coil and box would cause the coil to fail.
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The later 372xp has a blue governed ignition unit, if something has gone wrong internally in the unit, it is possible it is holding the revs back, just a thought assuming the throttle is opening fully.
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The tensioner is there just to tension the chain, the nuts secure the bar, if you have no aligned the pawl with the hole in the bar you will push the pawl through the cover, i saw a company on e bay offering a repair plate to rectify that, if this is the tooless brake you need to convert to the standard brake with two bar nuts as this brake is a disaster.
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Just some of the history of this machine, it replaced the 235 which replaced the 137, these machines are built in the Poulan factory in the states, it has also now been replaced by the 120 mk2, basically the same saw with new name, they are out and out domestic machines, starting procedure. purge bubble as many times as it takes to 3/4 fill the bulb pull the choke out crank the engine twice, never any more, even if you do not hear a fire push choke back in, do not touch the throttle crank the engine till it fires up If you purchased in the box you will need the carb to be re set as they do not run well out of the box, you need a special tool to adjust the carb screws, get rid of the 91sg chain as this cuts very slow. Good luck
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I can assure you sir they are and have been produced in Brazil, the 346 and 357 are also still produced, and they no longer meet the current emission figures, so who told you that story?
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Yes they are press fit, when it comes to the final balancing you maybe need the possibility to move it, I have seen this process in the factory, you can sometimes still see a copper mark on one of the Bob weights where the final balance is done.
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Genuine crank, I have never seen the big end pin come lose in the Bob weight before, it was actually still running but rattled well.
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Looks genuine to me, for the last two years the 390/395 and 3120 have been produced in Brazil, they are still produced there but cannot be exported to Europe as they no longer meet the emissions laws, by producing them there they can more easily feed the non emission caring countries, so to conclude the saw is genuine.
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281 does have the same bar mount as 3120
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The oil pump is fixed so there is no adjustment, if there is a leak it worth changing the pick up pipe and delivery seal, the pump body is sandwiched between these so relys on a tight fit. The 1 turn out on H and L screw is only a basic starting point so you will have to fine adjust from here, turn the idle screw up to achieve an idle, then adjust the L screw, the H screw should really be adjusted using a tachometer so as not to over the engine, the max rpm should be around 12000.
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The state of that piston its amazing the poor thing ran at all.
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Just remembered what that is on the pump, it is/was a foam pad to keep the dirt out of the back of the pump shaft, looks like it has started to dissolve.
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You need to fit the seal in the pump off the saw, there should be no sealant around the pup, i have no idea what the hell that is, clean it off. Be very careful re fitting the pump as the step on the crank will flip the spring out the back of the seal, there is a special sleeve to fit on the crank to take the seal over the step,you could use some insulating tape on the crank to ease the seal over the step, grease the o ring well before fitting, make sure the oil pump cable fits back into the slot in the crankcase
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I think you hit the nail right on the head Stubby its what the manufacturers have always said re .325 3/8 and 404 on machine sizes.
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I fear they may have seized and nipped the ring in, are you absolutely sure about the fuel mix??
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Everything.
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You need to be careful using the bigger cylinder as the crankcase opening on the early 50 is too small to take the skirt of the bigger cylinder.
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Anyone know where the oil drain plug would be on this Brigs engine?
adw replied to Woodworks's topic in Maintenance help
We also use a pneumatic pump to remove oil from engines, you can buy a cheap manual pump off the bay, they do work long enough to do the job. -
Unfortunately the support site is only available to account dealers via there account number and password, here they have access to ipls, shop manuals and cst.
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Absolutely correct 44mm bore, not an original 50 as it has the grey top cover ( the original was white ) nice to see the 300 decal as well, the 50 and 51 never had a deco valve, that came with the 55, classed as afarmers saw when first launched, and went on for many years.
