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About bmp01

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Personal Information

  • Location:
    Northamptonshire, UK.
  • Interests
    Down the woods with a saw. Amateur saw tuner. Amateur lathe turner, metal. Spring Air rifle tuning.

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  1. Thats a result, well done, and thanks for posting the info and solution. My only concern is that the clutch drum has been moved a mere 1.00mm and i had imagined it needed something in the region of half the width of the brake band to fix it. But, you've been into it pretty thoroughly and tested it so i guess that's all it needed. Nice one. bmp01
  2. So what, you been on holiday or somethin' ? 😈 Thought I'd seen some posts on here during the summer, but in hind sight I must have been searching some old posts. ... on the XP395, they're still there of course, yonks old.... Brains going, going,.... going ... and gone.
  3. What's going on here then ...looks like there's been some serious editing - i mean deleting of posts - in this thread ? 12 March jumps to 27 Sept....
  4. That clarifies it nicely. Does sound like the clutch drum is in the wrong place relative to the brake band or the drum is wrong. Trouble is you'd expect the clutch drum to be wearing through the clutch cover... Worth swapping your mates clutch drum over to your saw ? (not a 2 minute job with outboard clutch).
  5. As you've swapped plenty of parts and I'm assuming you swapped your mates clutch cover onto your saw (not clear) and that behaved the same then I'd guess the reassembly of the clutch cover onto the saw isn't going quite right. Is the clutch drum catching on the brake band at the top ? Brake band might now be distorted too. Is the clutch drum a genuine one and definitely the correct one? Might be better to post this in the chainsaw section. .... Good luck with it. bmp01
  6. Same. Picked it up as a non-runner, out of curiosity mostly, split hoses in this one too. Next time I attempt to use it there'll probably be something else to fix 😩
  7. Just back from holidays otherwise i would have replied earlier...... This situation is very similar to the one i was faced with just recently, link: https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/116207-ms200t-valuation/ Advertised mine at 400, got the usual "what will you take for it, mate" reponses plus genuine interest on here. It went for asking price to a local guy as he could collect 'next day'. Plus he got to inspect and test it, I like old fashioned cash for goods arrangement. Yours looks like 400+ from pictures - the right price is what people will pay for it, nothing else matters.
  8. If you are interested in how the cab works have a look at the attached Walbro info. Briefly: On choke setting fuel is sucked into carb and the intake port by the piston on its down stroke. During normal running, one half of the carb operates like a pump, lifting fuel from the tank into the other half of the carb - the metering side. Once you have fuel in the carb (and in the saw) from being on the choke setting, if you then take it off choke and the saw runs for a few seconds (while the fuel is used up), then either the carb settings are way out or the carb isn't pumping fuel from the tank. Walbro.pdf
  9. bmp01


    The chain is harder than the file, that's your conclusion. Is it the chain that's too hard ? Could be, if the chain has been sharpened with a grinder and grinding stone hasn't been dressed, it will generate a lot of heat, the tooth shows the steel tempering colours (or worse) and can become very hard as a result. But equally the file might not be up to the job. You didn't mention a brand so does that mean its of unknown origin? Even if the chain were extremely hard i wouldn't expect to see wear on the file unless it's used extensively. All assuming a regular chain material, not one of the carbide tooth jobs. Try the old file. Try the new file on another chain. Get some new files. ... you'll get to an answer quicker than waiting for a response.
  10. Yay, nice one. ... and thanks for info... A good way to diagnose a faulty carb, coil, plug etc is to swap in a known (or tested) good one from a correctly running saw, even a new untested part gives a degree of uncertainty. Not an easy thing to do with a carb though, so usually its a drop of fuel or 'easy start' down the intake and see if it fires.... then go through the fuel system, cheapest / easiest bits first. Glad you got it sorted.
  11. HT130 version, i striped down to clean, put it to one side for a week then spent a sunny afternoon trying to figure out how to put it back together. Bloody nightmare. Can't be sure but I think centre shaft was one piece. Surely if it's broken though, the broken ends will be a bit gnarly, maybe the high points rubbed smooth but unlikely to be like the flat machined ends. I'd expect there to be some debris, if the broken ends have run against each other for any length of time, black pasty yuck if there's any oil/grease around, sliver filings if completely dry..... HTH. Be good to know the answer to this when you get one. ... bmp01
  12. As per bottom of page one...... Shame really, the chance to help others with a snippet of info is lost. Must admit with the detail of the first post i thought this one might be different.
  13. Ok, what happens if you do ? Been thinking i might give that a go, or not if it wrecks the tube 😕
  14. This is no plaice for language like that. .... Yeah, ok, I'm leaving now. ..
  15. As far as using the original side cover and chain tensioning mechanism I think you are pretty much screwed with out that feat ure on the bar. It's not a common set up, I'd be surprised if there is a work around. Original spec bar required unfortunately. Hope you get it sorted. 


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