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About bmp01

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Location:
    Northamptonshire, UK.
  • Interests
    Down the woods with a saw. Amateur saw tuner. Amateur lathe turner, metal. Spring Air rifle tuning.

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  1. So either the idle screw is winding itself in (while you are running the saw away from idle) or you've got an air leak so the throttle can't restrict the amount or air / fuel into the engine. The latter will cause engine to seize if not attended to.
  2. Nah, you haven't got the patience to wait in a 2 hour long queue......
  3. Had similar question a week ago, see here. ... https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/120859-after-market-seal-kits-carb-rebuild-kits-any-good/
  4. "that’s a Stihl “in house” spec bearing" Hate it when they do that. ... But fair enough, you've not much option and as you say if you're doing one then might well be consistent and do the pair.
  5. "Bearings I’ll stick with OEM, no doubt in them then" ...that's the one place I'd go "aftermarket" if theres a saving, you can often see FAG or INA etc on the OEM part. Buy the same or another top brand part from a bearing stockist... -get the right running clearance, press fit brs are often c3 grade. -don't buy no brand Chinese bearings for chainsaw, ever. -check cage material, piston pin needle brg must be metal cage, clutch brg advisable in metal too.
  6. The expression 'hit and miss' is about as conclusive as I can get with aftermarket stuff. Pistons are better quantifed, Meteor are good, Hyway ok, Vtec and Golf last resort in my experience. But some peeps have fitted no brand pistons and got away with it - maybe long enough to flog the saw. Bearings - establish what you need and source known brand stuff, that's a good saving over OEM while keeping quality. Consider what saving are you making in relation to consequencd of part failing. If it's buried in the engine it'll be a full rebuild at best eg piston circlip. Side screw at 10p vs 2 quid then why not.
  7. Aye, all true. How long to diagnose? I'd guess at under 5 minutes for this one. Chap who did my MOT's insisted on driving car into the test station, said he could tell in the space of 25 meters whether he had to spend time on a car. And before that he had a good feel just from sauntering up to the car, critical eye plus experience....
  8. I don't doubt its all been tried. What is surprising and a little disappointing is the lack of detail. For instance, if the muffler was removed (as suggested) its the work of a few minutes to upload a picture. Ye'know cant even be bothered to confirm if the spark plug was soggy wet or bone dry ? But anyway no point wasting breathe. Bye 👋 .
  9. Good to hear, the chainsaw and idiot relationship is not necessarily an enduring one In fairness that 'idiot' comment was directed at those offering advice (to work on the saw), not your husband. Good luck, some feedback might help in due course - it's impossible to say with certainty what the problem is at the minute.
  10. Well yeah, but OP explained that was done before asking for advice on here...first post... Putting carb screws back to factory settings is (sort of) undoing tamperring. I'd imagine that was the first thing the chap did after it wouldn't start though. I'm in the 'do the basics' camp before sending back, you'd do that stuff as basic maintenance anyway. Basics: -Reset the carb screws to manufacturers settings. -Has it got compression, pick up by pull cord, does it drop slowly ? -Is there a spark ? (probably ok from the description). -Take the plug out, is it dry or wet/oily? ---If the plugs wet/oily pull the saw over with the plug out to clear it out. Clean the plug (or get a new one), heat plug up, install, try to start. Don't be using the choke too much, choke off at the first hint of it coughing and probably after the first or second pull anyway if it's got a purge bulb. ---If plug is dry there's no fuel getting through. Clean the plug (or get a new one), a few drops of fuel through spark plug hole, install plug, try to start. It might run for an instant before running out of fuel again. -If it doesn't run or runs briefly check spark plug again. Feedback ?
  11. bmp01

    Stihl ergostart

    That video is in slow motion, would have been fun if they had done done some cutting. Been caught out several times with a MS211 that's in the family. Pull the cord, nothing seems to happen, about ready to do another drop pull start and all of a sudden the blinking engines running just as you're lifting the saw. Quite disconcerting, I like old school.... I've not tried starting it slowly, just not part of the game plan when it comes to starting an engine.
  12. Use chemicals just on the aluminium deposit, dont soak the whole dammed thing ! Chemicals will eat any aluminium they come into contact with. And in case it needs saying, keep it off your hands and protect your eyes etc, nasty stuff...
  13. Question for Mr Edmonds - did you sell the lot, still collecting dust ? Just curious, sure there are a few others wondering too and it'd be nice to know given the interest shown. .... Ta,
  14. Naah, it's quite gentle, honest. If you think of it like a sanding pad on a flat surface you can see the pressure is quite low compared with a digit (finger) pressing a small area of abrasive. Each sanding drum is bespoke to cylinder size so the curvature is matched as best as possible. Of course there's a bit of operator involvement, no point focusing on a pristine bit of the bore. Tend to use it like a honing tool and get cross hatch pattern, much like a new one.
  15. 2 routes: Chemical- disolve aluminium deposits, Abrasion - brake hone / emery cloth on a mandrel or a flappy wheel I don't know that there is any evidence says one is better than the other. For a light seize where there is only a small amount of aluminium to remove I guess dissolving it won't take too long. But check for deep scores in the cylinder, you don't want chemicals to attack the aluminium cylinder under the plating. Personally I quite like the emery on a mandrel but then making up the mandrel is small beer as I have a lathe. See pic. I've used the old blue Harpic (bog cleaner), bubbles nicely on ally, I've used that in the past and seems ok - don't know if that's frowned upon ?


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