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Found 9 results

  1. How often do you guys change your clutch, sprocket, needle bearings etc? And is there an easy way to change them on a husky 562? Cheers.
  2. P R E D A T O R 2 8 R X Today we was called out to a predator 28RX, a very cool machine indeed. It being radio controlled and all, its like a little robot that smashes anything in its way! I mean who needs to build a robot for "Robot Wars", you could just buy one of these right?! So the problem was the cutting wheel would just stop dead when it went munching in the stump too hard. Predator service guys came out and narrowed the issue down to the clutch being worn out !?! This is machine is just 8 months old ... Luckily for the customer, predator gave him a shiny new clutch under warranty. Changing the clutch itself is not rocket science, any one with the right tools could do it. First whip the guard off that covers the clutch, this wasn't present when i arrived on site. Customer said something like, "it was rattling, so it was torn off and thrown somewhere". I then slackened the drive belts by undoing those four big ass bolts around the engine, then the adjuster bolt on the end and it will slowly shift the engine forwards to slacken those belts. For this bit you will need a "big fat torque gun". I used Makita 3/4" Impact Gun, what an animal it is aswell. Took the main shaft bolt out with it, its tight but no match for MAKITA! Next step it to unplug it, theres only the one wire on this, once that is done, use your SUPERMAN strength to pull it off the engine shaft! When that does not work, like it didn't for me because its been on a while. Grab a pulley extractor to help loosen it up, then it will just slide off. Once you've taken the old clutch off, slowly and carefully launch 🚀 it in the scrap pile. If you don't have a scrap pile, best start one... Then i refitted the new clutch in reverse order, remember "righty tighty". Tighten the belts back up, with about 10-15mm of slack and the four big ass bolts to make sure it doesn't move. Fit your guard back on and test it out! If the cutting wheel does not spin, you've cocked up somewhere. Luckily it worked for me "yay". There wasn't any stumps about for me to fully test it on, so i'll leave that for the customer. Then time to wash my hands, put the tools away and finally reply to the misses text from 5 hours ago. Good day! If you have any questions contact me at info@arb-gear.co.uk. Check us out on our social Platforms: Facebook : @arbgear Insta : @arbgear Youtube : @arbgear
  3. Hi guys, Looking to replace the electric clutch on our SP2010. It seems as if the clutch starts to slip after 20-30mins of use almost as if the clutch disengages and then we pull off the stump let the revs pick back up and it engages again. Anyways my question is is orange plant the only place online to Purchase the clutch? It's £450 on their website. The clutch is a Ogura Ma-Gt-jd22. Cheers guys
  4. ag Ed

    Suspect clutch?

    I've got a stihl ms181 c-be in from a customer to sharpen and thought I'd try to diagnose an ongoing nagging issue on it It starts cuts and runs fine but with any pressure put into the cut (such as using the dog) and it just stalls the chain, slipping the clutch I assume It's only a couple of years old or so and not in daily use but imo it's underspecced for his level of usage (a very large garden/small estate and doing a lot of firewood as the primary heatsource of a large 15th century house) I reckon the clunch I'd knackered, thoughts? Oh and it's on a 16 inch bar which I feel is a bit big on a 30cc saw
  5. Hi guys... I own rayco rg13 II series. I recently converted from finger teeth to green teeth. When grinding for longer period the belt cover gets really hot. Just wondering if it's not the clutch slipping and slowly wearing off. I checked the clutch today and found between springs ''powderish'' grey dust. Is the belt too tight? Will loosening it help? Better worn out belt than clutch. The westcon are asking fortune for centrifugal clutch... Any advice appreciated.... Thanks a lot...
  6. Can't solve this. Cany anyone add any light or similar issue? Rebuilt a 365 that had been crawled over by a tracked chipper. Included new bearing seals as split crank to replace clutch side. Ok. all back together with new rear handle to boot (non OEM but it seems reasonably rugged). Fired it up but chain is turning over with every pull. It ticks over and idle and Low adjust as they should hence discounted leak around new seals yet chain is turning no matter what. Looked a little deeper thought clutch was shot thus engaging with every pull, but springs not that weak. Pulled apart clutch side, I discover clutch appears to be binding with oiler (this after looking without sprocket on). The order things are reassembled according to diagrams are (thin washer) before oiler (so this sits virtually next to bearing seal) then oiler torx screwed down, then clutch directly on top (reverse thread). But even if i sit clutch only lightly tightened on it still binds with and turns oiler. This obviously then turns sprocket and hence chain. I prob should post pictures but there are so few parts involved, I cant seem to seat clutch without it tightening on to oiler and spinning it, there's plenty of play elsewhere and am used to tightening clutch down reasonably firmly and not catching on other models? even with a thin washer inserted in there its still going to pick the oiler up. Driving me mad, am wondering if crank has been bent (even only a microscopic amount) encouraging the clutch to bind? arghh Any ideas?
  7. Can anyone add any light on the following please? Rebuilt a 365 that had been crawled over by a tracked chipper. Included new bearing seals as split crank to replace clutch side. Ok. all back together with new rear handle to boot (non OEM but it seems reasonably rugged). Fired it up but chain is turning over with every pull. It ticks over and idle and Low adjust as they should hence discounted leak around new seals yet chain is turning no matter what. Looked a little deeper thought clutch was shot thus engaging with every pull, but springs not that weak. Pulled apart clutch side, I discover clutch appears to be binding with oiler worm gear (this after looking without sprocket on). The order things are reassembled according to diagrams are thin washer (so this sits virtually next to bearing seal) then oiler torx screwed, then worm gear with metal insert which houses above thin washer below. then clutch directly on top (reverse thread). But even if i sit clutch only lightly tightened on it still binds with and turns oiler worm gear. This obviously then turns sprocket and hence chain. I prob should post pictures but there are so few parts involved, I cant seem to seat clutch without it tightening on to oiler and spinning it, there's plenty of play elsewhere and am used to tightening clutch down reasonably firmly and not catching on other models? even with a thin washer inserted in there its still going to pick the oiler up. Driving me mad, am wondering if crank has been bent (even only a microscopic amount) encouraging the clutch to bind? The way it should work is sprocket should turn oiler worm gear, however the way it currently spins, clutch is driving worm gear> worm gear is the single 'arm' black plastic type, its in good condition. can anyone maybe redefine the order they have reassembled the above?
  8. Hi everyone I have recently bought a nkr55 tipper, great truck for carrying the weight! It needs a few things doing to it really, i am fairly sure the head gasket is going. seem to be losing about half a litre of water a day.... is there anyone on here who has had the head gasket replaced? just wondering how many hours it takes etc? Also looking to replace clutch, wondering how many hours this may take? Any advice would be great!! Thanks in advance!
  9. broy

    Clutch spring.

    Hi the clutch spring on my husky 142e has snapped. I'm struggling to find a replacement. Does anyone know if the chain from a 162 would do the job? Also is there anything that might have caused the breakage or is it just wear and tear? Thanks.

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