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  2. I'd go with Openspaceman, if you are cooling the flue with a forced air system rather than natural ventilation you will have to consider whether this will cool the flue too much, the gasses condense and you'll get creosote in the chimney above what is normal. You might not know if you do until you put in a fan and the sweep tells you it is, get the chimney swept more often (once more each year?). As for blowing air around the flue... we all have stove top fans which is pretty much the same thing, though these start when the stove top is up to temperature. Might be you reconfigure one of these to provide the air supply, it starts when it is warm, might not cool it too much.
  3. I can never manage to get it in the fire without some spillage!! (which is what I was wanting to do). (as an update, my experiments have paused at the moment for sawdust burning, last one was a stack of 3 bean tins for The Boys to play with, lower one has air vents at the base, drop twigs in the top, it burns OK for them but has no use otherwise - too top heavy to put a mug on, too small to heat any real area, but for the boys playing it does OK.))
  4. Aardvark

    St Lukes Square

    We have several large flower beds at our apartment building that are in need of wood chippings
  5. I doubt there is going to be any problem from mixing a semi synthetic oil suitable for the tool with a synthetic oil suitable for the tool. I'm not mixing to different specs to try and achieve another spec.
  6. Most of the forestry types I know seem to use Suzuki 4x4s, either Jimny or Vitara As far as I'm aware they're still quite cheap to buy and run, are light weight to get over wet bits and can still be used to carry 4 people if needed
  7. Today
  8. Belingo car/van 1.6 HDi 60+ mpg is a good option
  9. If you are looking at a car derived van, just get a car! Apart from anything else, you pay the car tax rate (often zero for an 'eco' model rather than full whack £245 a year for the same thing without windows.
  10. See post above about mixing oils... john..
  11. I get it, to I do, £15 extra a year is not a great deal. But when you've already got the oil and stabiliser, enough for over a decade, and pump fuel is now convenient, why make life hard and spend more doing it? Besides, I'd probably end up adding oil to the Aspen as I'm cautious too 😂
  12. Ok, oils.. Mineral oils. Mineral oils are distilled from crude oil. You heat it up and the lighter fractions evaporate off first, to make stuff like LPG, naptha, petrol all the way down to bitumen. Somewhere in the middle is oil. The stuff has various additives to make it suitable for whatever the end use is.. Fact one. Oil has a shelf life.. It WILL oxidise with age, but more importantly, various of the additives are metallic in nature, and, given time, WILL settle out of the oil.. So, the 30 year old 40 gallon drum of oil you pinched from work is now no good!! JASO standards.. FB, [the basic old mineral stuff] is just as oily as the latest synthetic, BUT the synthetic grade "FD" burns a lot cleaner so your engine will not coke up as much, AND, although the "oilyness" is not much different at ordinary temperatures, the synthetic stuff, is MUCH more resistant to breaking down at very high temperatures, which, in a chain saw screaming it's bollocks off, is a very good thing, so use what the makers tell you to use.. Synthetic oils. Synthetic oils are based on petroleum, but chemically modified, so unlike mineral oil, every single molecule is the same. There are various types of synthetic oils too.. Some are reserved for industrial uses, as for one thing, they are not compatible with mineral oils and it you mix them the whole lot sets into a gel.. There are also LOTS of problems with compatibility with seals and gaskets and plastic parts too.. The type that is generally used for engines and the like are based on polyalphaolefins. You CAN mix this stuff with mineral oils and this is what the "semi-synthetics" are, BUT, it is not a very good idea at all to try to do this yourself [mix the two i mean], as the additives used in each type of oil are not compatible with each other. So the idea of mixing two oils to make a hybrid recipe all of your own is a very bad one!! There are also problems with compatibility with seals and gaskets and plastic parts with this stuff too.. Fact two. As i said, mineral oil has a shelf life. Problem is, so does synthetic oil, potentially a shorter one too, the biggest problem being that especially if stored in cold temperatures they are more likely than mineral oils to have the additives settle out of them.. So, buy the oil as you need it, [not ten years supply] and USE WHAT THE MAKERS TOLD YOU TO USE.. As i said in a previous post, "ultra" "super" "dogs bollocks" all means nothing, you need to go by the JASO or ISO standards, anything else is marketing guff.. john..
  13. Hi, I’m looking for a sub contract groundsman in the Kent area for occasional work. Good day rate for the right person. CS30 and CS31 required as a minimum but most importantly a good attitude and sense of humour!! PPE would be advantageous but can be supplied if needed. If you’re interested give me a call or text on 07817543783 or email [email protected] Jake
  14. But one gallon a year ? and not having to buy any oil ?
  15. I could but a. I'm a tight bugger and Aspen is what, 3 times the price? b. I can be an inquisitive nerd and enjoy looking up the best oils, stabiliser and pump fuel, c. Now it's bought I want to use it up, d. It's very easy to p mix my own... Small measuring cup and 63ml of oil for each 2.5 litre can. e. Although it's not far for me to go to Fr jonsey's and buy Aspen, my nearest esso is quite a bit nearer.... Has a decent Tesco express combined so I can buy milk, bread or other essentials (soy sauce was what I was told not to come back without on Thursday when I went 🤣, jonsey doesn't stock that) and it's open until 11 or 12 which is handy.
  16. Cos it's three times the price.
  17. Hi can anyone recommend a tree surgeon or company near Ramsgate / Kent ? Many thanks
  18. Why not just use one of the pre mixed alkylate fuels such as Aspen or rhe Husqvarna one ? You can pretty much forget it then . One gallon a year , with a shelf life of ten years or something daft like that , thats the way I would go .
  19. tree77

    ICF

    Hi all Just wondering if there's any chartered foresters or arboriculturist with the ICF on here. Just looking for a little help/guidance with my critical analysis, please
  20. I looked into the jaso ratings a few years back when I got my 365. At the time I had a stihl ms180 and noting that ultra wasn't advised if bought the next best and got the green super. Now husky see arrived and the manual says use husqvarna xp oil at 50:1 or other oils at 30:1. I didn't want to kinds of mix around and as the ms180 has no high speed mix screw on the carb I didn't want to run it on 30:1. So I set about the specs to see if husq were just pushing their oil without evidence. I didn't really answer that question and in the end bought XP and mix to 40:1 half half with my super 🤣. XP is low smoke and fully synthetic. I think basically it equates to ultra. I also suspect the fully synthetic oils are far better than the semi ...in hard environs like extended use. As a homeowner doing 15 cube of firewood a year semi would be fine but the free extra pence for XP is irrelevant. I suspect the jaso spec does not draw out how the fully synthetic oils are 'better' as it's not designed to test that.... Which leaves us inquisitive users feeling uneasy. Anyway....I use about a gallon of mix a year so it's going to be another 10-12 years before I need more oil. When I do I'll likely buy XP again. Oh and I use star-tron stabiliser and Esso synergy supreme 99+ as it's guaranteed e free. It's marked e5 at the pump as that's the law, but Esso guarantee it e free except for certain locations. Shell stopped guaranteeing vpower e free several years ago.
  21. Could always stick yourself down on the tip site directory
  22. Not really fussed to start with, hard woods though
  23. Anything with a bit of ground clearance and 4wd will do, you really need something that will get you right up to where you are working or you will be lugging kit miles on foot. Bob
  24. kim2022

    Farm

    .
  25. Suzuki sx4 or x cross with 50/50 tyres and a roof box for the saws, fuel and wet clothes. Back seats out leaving loads of room for other tools and the log dog. It goes where pick ups go and skips across the wet rides.
  26. I wonder which pre-mix fuel brand decided to be different? You raise a potentially valid excuse, stihl and husky could say they were making their equipment compatible with existing thread nozzles on combi cans etc. didnt’t a previous post say that Aspen is compatible with Husky pre-mix fuel nozzles. So Stihl is the odd one out. This lack of compatability could have existed for a very long time.
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