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Just a note, I was always told to make sure the switch was in the off position if cranking the engine with the plug not connected, or earthed as this can damage the ignition unit.
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So there is no jurisdiction then.
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I’d put Bolam down for that particular quip but appreciated nevertheless.
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What about using a prussic around your line to capture the lift movement, anchored to a separate whoopie sling? That way you're not relying on the winch to hold the load up anyway.
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Got a large makita circular myself and to be honest it’s not a tool I enjoy using. I’m not a small guy but when it kicks or the blades nips you definitely want to be holding onto it. I’ve seen some of the Americans guys on you tube using huge versions whilst timber framing, rather them than me.
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Soft, strong and very absorbent.
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Hi we have just changed our crane controls to joy sticks ,so we have a set of leaver controls for sale all good and in working order
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Climbing SRT can be as simple or as complex as you make it. In 6 years I have never used a cambium saver. I like to keep it simple. I am not surprised you find it difficult faffing around like that. Plenty of options for safe and secure climbing and if you want to over complicate things there are plenty of ideas on the inter webs. KISS.
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In defense of Chinesium chippettes. Agrieuro, who supplied my GM CS80 Loncin engine clone, also have a comprehensive spares list available online with exploded diagrams. Stuart
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The crank is manufactured out of damn hard steel and is very unlikely to get damaged or form any sort of "lip" etc. I just fit a new key and then crank the flywheel down pretty damn hard - the exception being some of these lighter modern flywheels that can crack if you torque them too hard. The 660 is fine, it has a steel boss!
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We all need one subject to row about.
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Aye that doesnae surprise me who would want to use 1. Bugger that digging cleaning forestry ditches by the chain.
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And twenty quid cheaper than I paid for my similar compressor 15 years ago!
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Here mate after a long size bar - what's the biggest it will pull?
Rob D replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
Yep they loves long bars in the US! -
Sounds genuinely hellish.
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Well I wasn’t there, so I have no option but to believe you!
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That’s easily answered.... Because their bosses and their political masters are shite scared of opening Pandora’s box.
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You have to check on the HYD flow on older tractors.... And most likely get a trailer with PTO pump fitted... You want 6 cyl for road work or 4 cyl for smaller places JD 2850 is 4 cyl turbo, JD 3040/3050 etc 6cyl non turbo Massey 390/398/399/698/699 mix of 4 and 6 cyl there
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Thanks for the advice, I'll have a look at the options at .050 or less. Cheers everyone.
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Hire of Tractor with PTO chipper and feed grab
maybelateron replied to Lewipeti's topic in Large equipment
Try Benbow Brothers from Shrewsbury. Easy to find them on the net. -
Not sure where you’re based. Making a template listing your kit with blank squares for new acquisitions would help. That way you just fill in the template at each inspection. 10 pages of Krabs for one kit seems very excessive!! That would be around 100 items on the sheets that I use. (I thought I was bad, lol) Maybe streamline your kit ?? [emoji51]
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If you are an infrequent user you could use an Alkylate fuel such as Aspen or Huqvarnas own version . It can be left in the saw for long periods and has no Ethanol , won't attack the rubber components ( although it will show up what the pump fuel has done already ) wont give a headache and leaves the internals of the saw free from carbon . It won't remove carbon that is already there though . If you run a saw on Aspen from the get go and strip it down after a years contentious use there will be no carbon deposits and a minimal brown staining on the piston .
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Hi Jase it’s glen I used my green mech today the old one , 2001 model but it did nice like taking it any Branches is was like you had to force it for the rollers to take it in , also now the rollers going really slow just had new bearings
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Yep I like them . Use a 4 slot head but only put 2 lines in the bottom slots . The 4 slot head keeps the fixing nut under flush so won't dig in . ( the plastic cups come off to easily ) I use 4.00 mm square " Diamond edge " from desert extrusions , about 9 inches long . Hence no guard .
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Hi, I have a question relating to a neighbour dispute where the roots of a neighbouring mature Cherry Tree have crossed the boundary line and are causing trespass and nuisance. The tree itself is under a meter from the boundary line, a large root in direct contact with a sewage system, is in decline and has Ganoderma. The tree owners have been notified and the affected neighbours have had an application to sever along the boundary line approved by the council (they are in a conservation area). It seems that according to common law the roots can be cut back to the boundary line, however there is suggestion that if such actions result in the tree's instability or potential hastened decline/failure, the affected neighbour could be held liable? The owners of the tree will have been informed in good time of the intention to sever in order that they have time to seek independent advice to mitigate any structural instability. Is the affected neighbour more at risk for severing the roots or does the tree owner have a responsibility to mitigate the severance irrespective of impact to the tree having been made aware prior? Dialogue between the neighbours has been exhausted and unsuccessful thus far. Thanks
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