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Dan Maynard

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About Dan Maynard

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  1. Ah he started talking about a tree that needed felling but no clear path so it would inevitably get hung up. The answer to this is not to fell it but spike up and dismantle, no point creating a tricky situation. Agreed you wouldn't want to be spiking anything hung up. As chance would have it I've got a small dead elm which has fallen into a HC next week, current plan pulley in the HC and tip tie the elm then sections off the base.
  2. For grinders I found these: Tracker S7 Retrieve | Trackershop UK WWW.TRACKERSHOP-UK.COM Being battery there are no wires to trace and being VHF still detectable in a shipping container as Paddy says above. Buy 5 years subscription not too bad costwise either. Didn't buy another grinder though, have gone down the hire route and outsourced the whole problem.
  3. I'm thinking put the pull line on the upper trunk? Would that not work?
  4. Ah but there is a way, just spike up and dismantle it. Cutting so you have a vertical hung up tree with no control is a bad strategy in the first place, at least get some lines in before it's cut so you can control the situation from a distance.
  5. Witterings, what I think you should do is take the plunge and invest in CS30/31 training (whatever it's called now) - cross cut and fell. You're obviously using the saw a fair bit, it will make you safer, and you'll enjoy it more than a week's holiday.
  6. Yeah that's the point, stump grinding is cheaper than piling. My point as Khriss said above might as well pile it anyway. Otherwise in a few years the other neighbours might plant a silver birch and there'll be a thread about subsidence or heave and distance to the property if it's removed.
  7. Mine is 90cm but 10mm cord on 12.6rope and I'm heavy so have an extra wrap in the VT. I reckon that's about the longest combination you could ever need so somewhere in 70-80 is probably good for VT. I usually look at the price of premade ones and buy 15m of cord to tie my own, also means adjust the length as needed then tape it off and stop when it's working well.
  8. You ideally need a wider cut than a saw bench to let enough air in, to make it easy to light. Chainsaw happens to be wide enough, found 3/8 worked a bit better than .325 in the first ones I made. He will also disappear under a pile of noodles so you need to allow time for getting rid of waste every few.
  9. Good job. Keep us posted on how it gets on too.
  10. You can call it leylandii, as long as you sound authoritative and cut it down quick. Works for me every time.
  11. Fair enough if you have tried it, I was just thinking that 36" is top of normal bar range for a 660.
  12. Watch Reg Coates on YouTube, he's in a Stein Vega. Maybe more of a Ford option, but I really find mine comfortable anyway, more than the Treemotion I tried five years ago when buying it.
  13. Surely a properly working standard pump should be fine on 36" ? No need for a special upgrade just make sure it's cleaned out etc.
  14. Agree, definitely look at that before looking at the tree.
  15. I reckon we could all club together and help by finding you a few loads of conifer logs.


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