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About neiln

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  1. The maths seems okay to me and 7 quid a day on oil doesn't sound nuts, although a bit high for autumn and early winter maybe? dunno really..I'm on mains gas. Jeez it would cost lot oto het on oil for a winter though!
  2. similar temps here. 2 little 5kW stoves in a through lounge/dinner room heat the whole house. girls bedroom at the back of the house is furthest from the stoves and has 3 external walls so is coldest room. thermostat there is 18.5C right now 22.something here in the lounge, it'll be up another half or full degree by bed time, then 17C in the girls bedroom by morning and 18C down here. this is a typical between the wars semi of around 130m2 I think its not cavity wall, just 9 inch brick and loses a lot of heat. I started burning on an off in september on one stove, was probably full time on one by early October and then I run 2 if the outside temp is 7C or below, like tonight. So second stove has been on a fair bit since late October. I'm stunned Big J that you could munch through 11 cube.. wow!
  3. Crystal ball gazing I know. I'm here in south London, and last year was the first I heated with wood virtually entirely. I burnt my way through, I estimate, almost 8m3 of mixed hard/soft wood (probably 60% hard wood) in 2 small stoves. It was however a very very mild winter. I think we only had about half a dozen frosts all winter. So far this autumn and winter has been (exceedingly wet! and) colder, probably just normally cold but we've had more frosts than in all of last year. When grabbing wood off the pile earlier I looked at what I'd used and I'd estimate its 3.3m3 so far, in about 3 months. I reckon I'll use 10m3 at this rate, which is fine, I've got that and more seasoned. How are the rest of you getting on so far?
  4. oh and not sure if it is right or wrong but I only tarp for the winter. well about 1 september to 1 May i guess. my view is with the less rain and more sun its better not to cover over the summer, no point letting the UV destroy your tarp for those months.
  5. I reckon if its dry it keeps a long long long time. if i didn't have time to get it al CSS and had lots and lots, I'd probably buck to 4-6' and stack off the ground, top cover over winter. once that was done I'd go back over the stack and buck and stack to stove length, then go back and start splitting. i reckon once cut to stov length it would dry quickly enough to dry before it rotted....but it does depend on wood type. birch or similar shiny waterproof bark, need splitting straight away. awesome firewood though, i love a bit of silver birch.
  6. yep, wedges are good for large rounds but still straight grained, and even then good technique with the axe flaking bits off is easier. wedges and gnarly bits are a battle...I'v learnt to noodle with the saw, much, much better.
  7. I agree, fabulous firewood, I really enjoyed the cube or so I got. It was a dream to split generally, stacked bark up it keeps itself dry, and it burns really nicely.
  8. if its the mk2 stockton 5 like mine with the thick cushioning door rope then I've not had trouble with the door latch, but I always push the door firmly shut rather than just twisting the knob and making the latch drawer the door tight. As for bending or warping, I'm largely of the view that a small stove run on wood can't be over fired on a single load, it just burns through it before the stove is too hot for too long. Fingers crossed I don't curse myself but....I reckon the damaged stoves are run on coal and over fired, or run on the wrong coal which burns too hot. ok...if you do repeated hot reloads with small splits of wood you can probably damage a stove but that takes effort. I run 2 small stoves hard in the winter months, heating the whole house, and the stockton has seen flue temps at over 400C when I've put a bit too much wood on it a few times, its done it no harm at all.
  9. You don't need, it easier though. The tool that is the ash pan handle also fits over the door handle, giving a cool handle to turn but I like to use a welding glove and reach in to place the logs anyway.
  10. into year 4 with a stockton 5, no trouble at all so far
  11. here are a few others...they all differ a bit though Density of Various Wood Species WWW.ENGINEERINGTOOLBOX.COM Density of various wood species - apple, ash, cedar, elm and more Apple | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwood) WWW.WOOD-DATABASE.COM
  12. Isn't Apple higher? It's denser I thought and the bit I had seemed to burn like coal!
  13. You can get better but similar trolleys in b+q etc. Here's an Argos one Buy Ward 55L Plastic Wheelbarrow - Grey/Green | Wheelbarrows | Argos WWW.ARGOS.CO.UK Buy Ward 55L Plastic Wheelbarrow - Grey/Green at Argos. Thousands of... I had one but the point already made about muddy wheels meant I didn't really get on with it.... And when the lounge floor got oak parquet I felt it would mark that so it's not used. IKEA tote bags now and......'steeeerraaaaiiin!' when I inevitably over fill them. I have seen on US websites a cross between a small firewood rack and a sack barrow with large soft wheels. Looks good but again not if you are crossing mud.
  14. 1. the tree is common 2. the tree is ugly 3. the tree is a problem 4. the tree is decent firewood isn't the way to proceed obvious?


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