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  1. neiln

    Solar kiln

    Look on hearth.com search for solar kiln. There are several detailed threads. Some by a guy called poindexter iirc. He is some where very northern with lots of snow for many months but dried wood to something like 7%mc and did a couple of loads a year. They work.
  2. A barstard file is better for sharpening a splitting axe.
  3. O just realised, I have the x17 as my small 'shin splitter'. The X 21 at 28 inches should be OK.... but wear toe-tectors.
  4. This Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Professional Chopping Felling Splitting Axe - 1.8kg WWW.IN-EXCESS.COM Spear & Jackson; making everyday gardening easy and enjoyable through the precise and powerful... and a smaller one that I can't seem to find are the 2 cheap axes I have. You get what you pay for though, I don't think these will last nor are they as good at splitting as the fiskars.
  5. As a 50yo home owner and dad of 3 young kids who take up all my time so I'm not a fit and active as I was....I share your pain. One young lad who's a tree surgeon I occasionally get kids m logs from is particularly keen on delivering large rounds cut twice a long as the others. I resort to running the legs m large saw in the front garden to buck these before shifting out back. At 5'4" I'd recommend the husky s2800 as your bigger but not the maul splitter and the first to buy. Then the s1600 for a smaller size. X25 and 21 are alternatives. Be careful to bend your knees and ensure you'll hit the ground not your shin with the shorter option. If you don't like the sound of that, get a 28" handle and haft a 2.5 ish lb head on it as your light option.
  6. I started out with the roughneck maul like you, then got an x27 for Xmas and boy what a difference! I learnt lots of tricks, got quicker but just did more wood (12-15 cube a year) decided it was worth the investment in more axes....got an 8lb stihl/oschenkof maul for the 'unsplitables' and an x21, that increased doubled or tripled my speed. Then found the x21-27 gap too large, learnt to hang a head properly myself and got sent a true temper Jersey pattern head at just over 3lb.... that on 28" in easy stuff was sooooo fast. I only used a cheap haft though so eventually it broke. At this time I was busy so just went online and bought cheap (very cheap, spears and jackson) x25 and x23 ish copies. There is no 23, and the 2 axes aren't quite the right weight or length but you get the idea. Those axes are rubbish compared to the fiskars but I use those 2 most as they are the right size for most stuff. The x21 works BUT it's too short unless you're short. This makes it impossible to use without a block and dangerous if you don't bend your legs.. 2nd swing with it I hit my shin not the ground after a knot deflected the axe out sideways past my block... thankfully it was just stitches I needed. Tbh, knowing what I know, if buying fresh now, I'd get the husky/gardena axe at x23 ish size, an x25 or s2800, an x27, and the stihl 8lb maul. Once you know how to split you'll use smaller axes most of the time. Oh and if you're any where near se19 you're welcome to come and split some wood for me....I mean try the different axes. 😉
  7. Wood heat is hard work. Reducing the handling is a big help, split beside the stack, split on the ground if the wood is straight grained. I'd also strongly urge you to get 2 or 3 axes if different sizes. A lot of easy splitting wood splits easily with a 2.5 or 3 lb axe on a 28-30" haft, what doesn't after a couple of swings try with a bigger axe. It's easier and quicker to swing a light axe than use a big one all day, that soon gets tiring.
  8. Opposite to me. I've normally got well through 12-15 cube by now but the scrounging is very slow this year and I've only gathered a couple.
  9. I get a lot of oak. I split it all by hand and I am very pleased it is the most reliably easy splitting wood I've come across (except false acacia) Split it green, it's easy.
  10. Agree. You'll not get loads very regularly. My experience is, a full (ie, somewhat over weight) transit tipper load equates to 2-3ish cube (once processed and stacked) depending on hard vs soft and how absurdly over weight its loaded. Ish.
  11. Is OK Green even with the spiral, at least the stuff I had was. I've not found it to spit either but then nothing does if its really well dried.
  12. I can't comment on growing them, but I have burnt a fair bit of euc that I've split and dried myself. I find it dried very readily in a season and burnt quite brightly. It lights easily and gives decent heat. Yes it's not that dense but seemed denser than lime or willow. I also found it split, by hand, very easily. It's a wood I'm happy to take if one of my contacts offers. My guess, but just a guess, E.gunnii. not uncommon in urban gardens.
  13. Tend to agree, it looks to be burning lovely. , I've only viewed on my phone but I think the stove has no spigot and the flue pipe has been cemented directly into the stove. Either because the spigot was lost or broken or because the installer wanted the sweep access visible and cut the bottom from the pipe to get it to fit there.. So no reduced diameter male bit to fit the spigot. A right frig. The key damper is not ideal either but if the flue has a strong draw I can see why it's fitted. These things don't affect the heat, but it makes me think the rest of the install might have some more 'special features'.
  14. AHH I'd not seen them video. Right. That flue thermometer might be way off, they are cheap and easy to get so might be worth trying another. It's also attached to the sweeping access which probably has a large circular 'felt' gasket behind so it'll read a bit low , try it on the side of the pipe. Stick a few more logs in and if it doesn't get round to 'too hot' then the wood isn't dry. It does look a nice hot burn though, hence I don't believe the thermometer. The installation looks a frig. I can't really be sure but I think the flue pipe and the spigot on the stove have been played about with, possibly to get the sweep access where it is. If it has been b*ggered about then I'd question what the rest of the install is like.
  15. My logic is jotul, excellent brand, it might be a bit old and not the most efficient but it'll be built like a perverbial brick outhouse and will be an excellent heater. At 6kW nominal it must be about 9 or more max output, that's a lot of heat. Is that a flue thermometer I see in the second photo? If not get one. Put so close to the stove, safe max would be over 300C. Can you run it at 350-400C for half an hour and does it still not get hot? If you can't do that there's something wrong with either the stove draw or the wood, if you can and it doesn't get the stove hot then we need to work out where the heat is going. Is there a register plate? You might be losing heat up the chimney if not. The room fan idea is good for testing the 'heat trapped in the fireplace ' idea. I doubt it's that though.


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