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About neiln

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  1. I've posted links before but for anyone interested it's easy enough to find. Go to Hearth.com and the be woodshed sub forum and search for ' solar kiln'. It's been discussed at length and 2 or if 3 guys have developed systems, posted extensively about it. There's a guy in Alaska or somewhere Northern and cold, drying his wood to something like 6-8% MC, in 2-3 months and being a scientific minded guy he has a lot of temp and humidity and MC data. He showed good design harnessing solar gain and the right amount of ventilation really worked. His calculations show the right amount of ventilation is surprisingly small too.
  2. Or the moisture comes from the ground beneath the stack of wood. Solar kilns are definitely a good way to get very very dry wood very quickly.
  3. husky recommend 30:1 on other makers oils, 50:1 on their xp stuff. I couldn't find the dpec the xp stuff met nd suspect its no better, if as good as stihl green. however, to be sure I went and bought some husky xp, and I mix at 40:1 with half stihl green, half xp. I have heard loads of people praising amsoil/saber, but no I wouldn't go below 50:1
  4. Yep, I reckon Dan's maths are about right. 36 diameter mature oak like that, my guess is 8m3 give or take a couple, and as cut, split and stacked firewood that could be £800, delivered. Top whack a grand if its 10m3, but that's delivered, cut, split and seasoned for a couple of years. I also think £850 to take it down and clear away is cheap, for an oak that size it could be twice that. You've not lost out, I'd say you've done quite well/been lucky.
  5. I don't know you, or your dad, but I know watching a patent lose their strength and succumb to old age, is horrible. My commiserations. Try and enjoy the little moments and hope he can too
  6. Ok someone save me reading pages 2 to 5, does it get less depressing than it starts? The answer is a wood gasification boiler, a wood pellet boiler or 2 wood stoves, ordered by cost and effectiveness. Thread closed. 😄 Really though, a decent sized wood burner, or a couple will take care of most of the heating needs. Then air source heat pump and oversized rads works fine (or at least it does for my brother). Use the heat pump in the mornings when the stoves have gone cold, or all day when being lazy. For My 'forever home' I'd look at wood gasification boiler though. Right now I may enjoy scrounging, cutting, splitting and stacking...(actually no the stacking is a ball ache) 3+ cords is wood a year so much that my mains gas c/h runs about once a fortnight only, but as I get older I can imagine hankering strongly for the comfort and convenience of c/h. A large gasification boiler would be an attractive option if I could scrounge wood still.
  7. Ah yes, the OPs situation, and my own, largely fall into that I guess. Damage that isn't making the house unliveable or in danger of collapse, as annoying as unsightly cracks and stuck doors and windows are. The big stress is knowing that I want to move as the family has outgrown the house, but attitudes to subsidence mean I can't afford to, unless it's fixed. That then is very stressful. Were houses not so absurdly expensive, particularly in London and the SE, I guess that wouldn't be such a problem. I think that climate change has created a big problem for insurers and there will be a change needed. Perhaps subsidence insurance will be a scandal like the PPI one.
  8. I agree I think we are heading for a big issue, but why are we different to anywhere else? I don't understand that bit. Do other countries not normally insure for subsidence? Eek if that's the case. Although my own insurers have been of little to no use for the last decade! I feel like I would have been no worse off if uninsured!
  9. As a home owner in South London with subsidence for the last decade, and neighbours that refuse to remove trees, I know a little. From what I've learnt heave is unlikely unless the house was predated by the tree and built on severely decicated soil. The insurers will have monitored the movement, either cracks growth and/or level monitoring and determined it's stable before doing the repairs. The cosmetic repairs seem standard for that level of damage. I wouldn't be too fussed about heave. I would be very concerned if there are any large trees remaining close by. Rough guide, if a tree is as close or closer then it is tall, be concerned. It does very with soil and species though. This worry would apply to any house on clay, whether it's had previous subsidence or not. Do stick with the same insurer, if the repairs fail or damage returns notify them quickly and try and get it sorted as a continuation of the previous claim. You absolutely don't want 2 different insurers arguing who is liable (old for not repairing properly Vs new for new claim, if further damage occurs) Whichever insurer you go with it will be more costly due to the subsidence. Quite a bit. All insurers are getting very worried, and trying to back out on claims I reckon, as climate change seems to be making hot dry summers more common and vegetation induced subsidence much more common. I think this may become a real issue in years to come. This will be a concern for anyone with a house built on clay with large trees nearby. Finally one of my neighbours had agreed to remove his 2 trees next month.... The other with the biggest tree.... Well I'm talking to a solicitor.
  10. Omg yes! Yew. Without a doubt, it's depleted uranium! Don't over do it or you'll melt your stove! Leylandii is pretty decent too, but not in the same league.
  11. neiln

    Log id

    Yep sap is messy but it dries well and is dense for softwood, definitely good to get stove going and get it hot.
  12. And cutting it up to firewood needs either a big-ish saw, or a small saw and a lot of patience. BTW, where are you?
  13. I feel sorry for you gents making a living from tree work when you have to contend with the likes I saw this morning. I heard a tool start up so walked to the window to see across the road... White van unmarked, guy in crocs shorts, t- shirt, walked from van into garden, initially while revving the saw then with it in his right hand and bar by his leg (bar backwards at least, but). He then goes up a step ladder and proceeds to take the top out a Leylandii hedge. Most would have been quicker with loppers, a bow saw would have got the trunk in 20 seconds but no. A few minutes later I saw him start a pole tool ...... With hedge trimmer attachment on the end which was useless. Wong tools for the job and the disregard for ppe and chainsaw safety was stunning. Still... He won't be competing with you for long i guess!
  14. That's s bit pessimistic. I get wood from 3 local tree guys (for firewood) and plenty of quality hardwood like oak. Cherry, plum and Apple too. They're plenty of tree guys that are kind enough to set a few bits aside do for you, I know one of mine does for wood turners.


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