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About spudulike

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    Senior Member, Raffle Sponsor 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015

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  1. Don't tell me.....he is a Stihl dealer!
  2. There's a question, if the saw is running a bit of an air leak or a bit lean on the carb setting, it may save it. At 33:1, it is pretty heavy on oil and it may form too much carbon or foul the plug when cold.
  3. Yup, I can concurr that they are difficult to do this test!
  4. Aw crap, here we go again, yes, if you use loads of oil in your petrol, the saw will overheat and seize, bet that has happened loads of times😱 not!
  5. Someone I know paid £400 for on in similar condition!
  6. Yup, apparently work is good for your health so continuing to work to 72 years is great......and even greater for the Government, all those NI payments paid, never to be taken as a pension!
  7. Almost impossible to answer not knowing the model type as AT machines are completely different from older conventional ones. Starting from hot issues can be caused by low compression through piston wear or having nipped up.
  8. And that is why I said a number of posts ago about using one of these little saws. I know many of my customers reflect these same views especially after a few tweaks!
  9. You often let some big backfires or kick back when the key has sheared but does depend on where the timing has ended up. If you have spark, the compression needs to be over 150 psi then a carb issue is the most likely issue. General carb faults are gauze strainer blocked, perforated pump diaphragm, hardened metering diaphragm, stuck metering arm, check the needle will hold pressure to at least 10psi before popping off, possibly the check valve has stuck open and lastly, make sure the choke is operating as it should. It could be the engine is flooded so pull the plug, turn the unit iodide down and pull it over hard a number of times. If petrol comes out of the plug hole. Let it dry for an hour, heat the plug with a plumbers torch and put it back in quick then pull the engine over hard holding the throttle open. If it still doesn't fire then try a bit of choke. Back to the carb, make sure all gaskets and diaphragms are assembled in the correct order as it makes a huge difference. The pump membrane diaphragm should be closest to the carb body, the metering diaphragm should have a spacer gasket between it and the carb body!
  10. Have you checked the spark as if you have compression and fuel, it is the other main constituent to a running engine.
  11. It is a Chinese carb and this should get the saw going, some are pretty good and some are nothing like as good as the original and adjustment is nothing like standard adjustment. I have had some on MS200s and have eventually swapped them out due to not holding a usable adjustment.
  12. Yes but the only climbing I do is up the stairs at the end of the day, sometimes on all fours if I have partaken of an alcoholic beverage or four and the wife would take exception to me taking a saw in to the bedroom In other words....what do I know
  13. I think if it came with a 1.1 chain and bar as standard, you would be correct but the MS150 does and there is little between them in my humble opinion.
  14. Is the compression OK? It should have between 150-170psi. If you don't have a compression gauge, pick the saw up by the starter/recoil handle and it should drop slowly with distinct holds where the piston comes to top dead centre. A full drop on the handle should take in the region of 8-20 seconds. If this doesn't grab you, remove the muffler and look at the piston through the exhaust port and see if it looks scored. Failing this, it may be the impulse line, split manifold, dodgy Chinese carb, etc and the screw looks like part 1121 791 6105 some sort of screw from the top AV buffer.
  15. MS241 as a possible, rear handled MS200 are very decent saws, I started with a 345 which was good for me or just go for another 181 as they are light and not bad saws.


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