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spudulike's Achievements
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Will that mean we can rip round on Z1s and GSX1100s with the last 1.5' of the exhaust system missing wearing scabby leathers.......Lovely
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If you have flooded it, not wishing either of us to suck eggs.....remove the spark plug, turn the ignition OFF, turn the saw upside down and pull it over really hard a few times. This really helps clear puddled fuel and you may see it drip or spatter out of the saw hence the ignition off and YES, I have seen this ignite one one occasion - pretty impressive but not good for hair on arms or eyebrows!!! I also find heating the plug up with a plumbers torch or gas cooking hob can help with getting the engine to fire but get it in and pull it over quick....no choke but fast idle position. At least a working module will prove if it is that or not. Has he got a good carb to try?
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Probably easier just to grind and file the mushrooming back to sort it unless you want that look. I think your spell check kicked in...It is Brades Co not "Braces"....a decent manufacturer. The wedge - take a 3mm drill and drill the wedge out bit by bit. You may get lucky and be able to lever it out. There may be a metal wedge in there, nails, screws etc but if you are lucky, once the wedge is removed, the handle will knock off there the slot can be cleaned, a new wedge cut and planed to size then fitted. As I said, use some PVA wood glue to get a good bond and knock the wedge in good and hard then cut it to size.
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The MS460 poly flywheel has a steel boss so is damn strong and yours looks fine as does the key. It is very possible that you are feeling the play between the rings and the piston and it is quite normal. Pop the muffler off and see if you can see the movement as you rotate the flywheel. It is likely the ignition unit has taken a clout and damaged it so the saw is sparking with the wrong timing but difficult to tell from afar. It is also possible it has a carb issue - did you check under the metering diaphragm cover.
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Oh.....a little caveat is that when an engine stops when running at full tilt then it can often be a complete failure on the HT side, especially if the saw still has decent compression after failure. You could try removing the kill wire off the coil....just to make sure there isn't an intermittent earthing issue.
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They may be worth £30- 40 each tile if they have a manufacturer on them - seen them on bargain hunt and can go for a decent sum. I am no expert but worth looking and learning before you make your table.
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The flywheel moving thing - are you saying that the flywheel has a little play on the key when loose? This is entirely normal but if it is loose when it is torqued down, this is very wrong. The ticking of the flywheel - if the flywheel has clouted the ignition module then it may have done it some damage. I have known flywheel magnets loose their magnetism by being clouted but if you have a healthy spark, it would look more likely that the spark is possibly happening at the wrong time. An engine, in basic terms, needs fuel spark and compression - if only it was this simple!! The spark needs to happen at the correct time, the fuel needs to be metered and the compression - on a MS460 - typically 160-170psi.....they are usually pretty healthy on compression. It is very difficult to see if the machine is sparking at the correct time without using a strobe and you need a running engine to do that. It is possible something in the carb has failed and it isn't metering the fuel correctly but would expect the saw to flood or not be pulling fuel up correctly but perhaps check the carb over. MS460s do tend to build up a lot of shyte above the metering diaphragm, not sure why but they just do so check this out as well.
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They are worth the sum that someone will pay for them. Someone said it is amazing what someone on eBay will pay for non working saws......this sort of tells you something: - The best option is always to sell as single units to anyone on the UK mainland on eBay The next best option is to sell all three to anyone on the UK mainland The next best is buyer to collect a single saw The next best is buyer to collect all three Gumtree - bit of a minefield and is one up from a car boot....give you a quid for it guv!! I have sold and purchased saws and other goods on eBay. I have done a bit here and there so personally, I would list each saw to end on Sunday evening, start the bids at £1 and let the good times roll. If you don't do this...and it is entirely up to you Mark, you will get less money and probably considerably less but they are your saws and your choice! Easter is coming - damn good time to get the saws up and most people have absolutely no knowledge of the value of things they own......I sold a 171 owned by a family member to a neighbour - he thought £30-40 was fair....I got £120 as the money was going to charity and it was a later model in clean condition, the neighbour was over the moon (after an afternoons tuition) and the family member was somewhat surprised.....everyone is happy.
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Some of those hand painted tiles are both valuable and very collectable...in case you didn't know.
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You can probably drill the original wedge out if it is wood. Make a new one out of hard wood - Oak is good and solid and use a bit of wood glue around the eye (Hole) in the axe head, on the axe head and wedge as it fills cavities and ensures a nice tight bond that will hold it all together well.
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I know, I wouldn't normally but sometimes....... My money was on a damaged clutch centre but we will never know...annoying and as my old mum used to say...always say THANK YOU!!
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Go Careful with longer screws, they have the habit of going in to areas they shouldn't and causing issues. Personally I would use a slightly larger diameter screw of the same or similar length.
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TBH, I really don't know anymore and I have about as much a clue on this subject as on Quantum Mechanics.
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You can't call it a "Black Art", it is now an Art of Colour unless it has changed again.