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Echo CS3600

Hi, Anyone know where I can get a new/used front handle for my Echo CS3600. I am UK based. Its a great old saw and I really dont want to bin it. Thanks Steve

SteveH500

Yesterday at 06:22

Guide to classifications of chainsaw protective wear

Chainsaws are extremely dangerous power tools and it’s important for operators to use the right safety gear, otherwise, accidents with chainsaws can result in major injury or death. It then falls on the employer's responsibility to provide chainsaw operators with appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) and clothing. Choosing the right PPE, however, entails knowing the regulations behind it and the designs that would fit the job at hand. EU Classification System For Chainsaw Protective Clothing Since regular fabric for everyday clothing will not provide any protection to operators, the EU created the EN381 series of standards. It covers the testing and requirements needed for each part of an operator’s gear, particularly for leg protection, boots, gloves, and for upper parts of the body (detailed in each section below). The regulation also provides numerical classifications that rate the resistance of the clothing relative to the chain speed of the machine: Class 0 -- 16 metres per second (36 mph) (3,150 feet per minute) Class 1 -- 20 metres per second (45 mph) (3,937 feet per minute) Class 2 -- 24 metres per second (54 mph) (4,724 feet per minute) Class 3 -- 28 metres per second (63 mph) (5,512 feet per minute) For instance, if a piece of clothing can resist a chainsaw moving at a speed of 20 m/s, then it’s classified as Class 1. Do note that no protective equipment can guarantee 100% safety against accidents by chainsaw use, but it does decrease the probability of injury or at the very least, help minimise the harm caused. Trousers Leg protection is covered under the EN 381-5. The lowest allowable level for chainsaw trousers is Class 1 (can resist cutting up to 20 m/s). Trousers that are compliant with EU comes in two standards forms: Type A – Covers the front of the legs and is intended for trained forestry workers or professional lumberjacks. It also provides arborists (who work on the ground) comfort and ease of movement, especially for heavy tasks. Type C – All-around protection for the legs. Type C trousers are generally used either by trainees, who are at higher risk due to inexperience or by climbers and tree surgeons, as they cut from a variety of positions. Due to the nature and extent of the protection, these can be very hot for climbers to wear in warm weather, so the onus is on the employer to assess the risk of heat stress versus the risk of lesser-protection type A trousers and select the type of trouser accordingly. Jackets Upper body protection, including jackets, are regulated under EN 381-11. Unlike trousers, chainsaw jackets only have one design. Fronts and backsides of jackets should have protective inlays along the arms, chest, and shoulders. On the front side, the inlay should cover 80% of the surface, while the non-protected surface of the sleeve ends should not be more than 70 mm. Although jackets protect the arms and the torso, know that these are also highly insulting, which could cause heat stroke. As such, it’s best used when working on servicing platforms, chainsaw use above chest height, or other dangerous working conditions. Helmets Safety helmets are regulated under EN 397 (the more basic standard) or EN12492 (a more extensive standard which also tests for side, front and back impact, and specifies a 4 point chinstrap). Arborists who work at height using a rope and a harness should be equipped with a (‘mountaineering style’) helmet to EN12492 . It’s recommended to replace chainsaw helmets every three to five years, as sun exposure can cause the plastic to weaken. In the event of an impact, a helmet should be put out of service immediately and replaced. Gloves Protective gloves fall under EN 381-7. The type of gloves needed will depend on the task and the risks involved. Look at any presence of thorny material or cold/wet conditions. Gloves should be flexible and allow users adequate grip and control. Boots Chainsaw boots need to conform to regulations of EN 381-3, as well as EN ISO 20345:2004. Protective gaiters, if needed, should fall under EN 381-9. All chainsaw boots have a steel toe cap. Some boots also have a midsole in addition, for protection from penetration underfoot. Users should be aware that chainsaw boots do not have chainsaw protection all around the boot and therefore cannot prevent injury - they can only help reduce the risks. Other factors vary from brand to brand, such as grip, comfort, waterproofness and flexibility - and a boot should be chosen based on suitability to the user and the environment. Ear Protection Hearing protection is regulated under EN 352-1. The right ear muff protects operators from the damage of excessive environmental noise (more than 85 decibels) like permanent hearing loss. Chainsaw helmets will have the option to attach ear defenders, which should always be worn when using a chainsaw or chipper or other noisy machinery. Many arborists prefer ‘chipper muffs’ (muffs with a rating of SNR31 or higher). Eye Protection For eye protection, mesh visors fall under EN 1731 while safety glasses fall under EN 166. Mesh visors guard against wood chips that often fly at high speeds. They also allow for ventilation and eliminate the risk of fogging. Safety glasses, on the other hand, provide unobstructed vision and more impact resistance. Again, depending on your model of helmet you will likely be able to attach either a mesh visor or glasses (or both) to the helmet. Stay Safe Part of running a business that’s safe for employees is mitigating any risk in the workplace. To prevent any accidents, you need to look at any possible causes of harm, ensure that chainsaw operators are wearing the right gear, and that they follow all the best chainsaw practices.

LandmarkTrading

September 12

Sub-Cobtract Climber Required - Hampshire & Dorset

Looking for qualified climber or groundsman with aerial rescue. Your own personal PPE and Equipment, full driving license is ALL essential. 100 - 160.00 per day depending on experience. We have a job and knock policy here - Work hard, finish early Please call Nick on 07709858435

Only-Way-Is-Up-84

September 10

A Buyer's Guide to Cobra Bracing

Arborists often need to provide structural support for trees through the use of either fibre ropes or steel cables to secure the stability of the major elements of the tree. There are several different approaches to bracing a tree but the Cobra System is one of the most popular and best. It is easy to install, will cater to many different types of defects and instabilities, does not require any specialist tools or training, and is completely non-invasive to the tree. The Basics of Tree Bracing Some trees can end up growing at a rate and in a direction that makes them unstable. Part of the tree or even the whole structure may be in danger of collapse. In other instances, damage can come about through storms, vandalism or interference from other elements. If a tree is unstable or damaged, this clearly presents a danger to the public and to other structures around the tree. Trees that have multiple trunks and trees with open canopies are most likely to be unstable. Supporting a tree with cables and/or rods is referred to as tree bracing. In general, tree bracing is used to: Prevent failure - reduce the chance of a healthy but weak tree structure becoming unstable Restore damage - to extend the life of a tree Mitigate a hazard - reduce the risk of damage to human health and life or property It must be remembered that bracing is not an exact science and does not offer a guarantee of maintaining the tree structure, or indeed the life of the tree. When you are deciding whether to brace or not, you will need to weigh up the likelihood of it being successful, the risks of carrying it out, the aesthetics of the final result and conservation issues. A skilled and experienced arborist is best placed to make that assessment. All about the Cobra Bracing System The Cobra Bracing System has been scientifically developed to give the best support, shock absorbance and flexibility. Some of the specific benefits are: It’s lightweight - the Cobra rope is a monofilament polypropylene hollow cable which is much lighter than the steel cable alternative, making it strong and comfortable to handle. It’s aesthetically superior - there are no bracing rods which cause damage and can look unsightly. Once installed, Cobra systems are often very difficult to pick out at ground level, leaving the tree’s natural beauty uninhibited It can be used for several purposes - it is suitable for dynamic bracing (for sudden stresses) and load bracing. It absorbs shock - it significantly reduces impact forces It maintains strength - it loses only 2 percent of its strength per year which means that it will generally be 12 years before it will need to be replaced. It protects the tree - the system does not require rods to be placed inside the tree and uses hollow cables made out of monofilament polypropylene together with a quick splice instead. The expanding bands and anti-abrasion cover also help to minimise any friction damage between the cables and the bark. System components Cobra Bracing comprises: Hollow cables - made from woven monofilament polypropylene in 4 and 8-tonne strengths Expansion inserts - used to flatten the contact area and prevent girdling. Anti-abrasion hose - needed to prevent rope damage by making sure that the cable does not slide around the connection point. End caps - which are colour coded to quickly identify the year that the bracing was erected. Shock Absorbers - To reduce impact forces and hence cut down on damage. Cobra bracing methods There are three main types of bracing: Dynamic braking / cabling: For preventing breakage caused by oscillation-induced overstretching, install Cobra with a shock absorber. That way, the oscillations of the crown are not impeded, yet load peaks from strong gusts are softly dampened. Static braking / cabling: If damage is already present (i.e. formation of cracks), we recommend installing a Cobra 4 t or 8 t without a shock absorber. By immobilizing the critical spot, this type of cabling system prevents enlargement of the crack and helps prevent the branch from breaking off. Load support cabling: If, for reasons of traffic or pedestrian safety, a broken branch needs to be prevented from falling to the ground, install a static load/support cabling Cobra system without a shock absorber. Bracing should be installed as vertically as possible so that, should the branch break, it will hang in the rope. The only acceleration will be from the rope extension hence there will be little or no shock loading. The rope and anchor point should be sufficiently strong for the weight of the branch. Selecting the right Cobra system There are three main system variants for you to choose from depending on the load that you need to support and the diameters of the branches involved - 2 tonne, 4 tonne or 8 tonne. The chart below gives guiding information on selecting the correct system for your job. For further details please refer here. Cobra 2T Dynamic breaking/cabling for a stem/branch base up to 30cm (12 inches). Cobra 4T Dynamic breaking/cabling for a stem/branch base of 40-60cm (16 - 24inches).
Static cabling and load/support cabling up to a stem/branch base of 40cm (16 inches). Cobra 8T Dynamic breaking/cabling for a stem/branch base of 60-80cm (24-32 inches).
Static cabling and load/support cabling for a stem/branch base of 40-60cm (16-24 inches), with a double installation for a stem/branch base of
60-80 cm (24-32 inches). To provide optimum efficiency, it is recommended that Cobra bracing should be installed at two-thirds the height of the tree. When used as load/support cabling, the rope should be installed as vertically as possible.

LandmarkTrading

September 4

tree tags Tree Surveys and Tree Tags

All arborists will invariably carry out tree surveys from time to time. They can be conducted on land owned by public sector bodies or on private estates. They ensure that the individual or organisation managing the land has the correct information that they need to make decisions regarding how they will manage the tree stock. There is official guidance, namely British Standard BS5837, which sets out how decisions should be made when managing trees. A tree survey is needed before any decisions can be taken. Information Revealed by a Tree Survey A properly conducted tree survey will yield essential information about the trees in the location in question. Some of the most important information includes: The tree species, which is recorded in scientific nomenclature. The age of the tree. The physical dimensions of the tree including the trunk diameter at a recorded height and the overall height of the tree. This is identified using measuring instruments. The health and predicted life expectancy. Recommendations for managing the tree in the future, this could include restorative work or even removal. Compliance with any legislation that applies to the tree such as the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981. Predicted impact of any proposed development on trees in the locality. Providing information for computer generated modelling. Pinpointing trees that add value to a development, those that are protected by law and those that do not enhance the landscape and can be safely removed. Identifying trees that present a hazard due to their physical condition. Carrying out a Tree Survey A tree survey is often a significant undertaking and may involve several arborists and specialist equipment. Before you start, it is essential to protect your own safety and that of your employees by identifying any hazardous trees. A preliminary scoping survey is carried out to identify ‘Target Zones’. Ideally, each tree is assessed from all sides but there are some circumstances in which this is not safe. A river bank would be a typical example. For each tree, the following is usually recorded in a standardised way using a pre-designed form that is stored on paper or electronically. Surveyed trees are usually identified with tree tags which are physically attached to the tree. Information on a typical survey form includes: Species Position - usually expressed as map coordinates supplemented by a description Notes on distinctive attributes Approximation of age - this could be designated as categorical variables such as ‘newly planted’ ranging to ‘over-mature’ Gaps in the crown, leaf colour, presence of dead wood and broken branches Presence of cracks or splits in branches Presence of fungus or splits and cracks in the trunk Presence of ivy Presence of leaning and a record of what it is leaning towards Signs of decay within the main trunk and base Obvious root damage Obvious cracks, uplifting around the tree Classifying Tree Condition Using the survey information, the overall physical condition of the tree can be classed. They are generally described as: Good - a tree that has a full crown and no signs of decay or damage; a long-life expectancy is predicted Fair - a tree that is mainly healthy but has some minor defects and/or thinning of the crown Poor - a tree that has some major defects or that lacks vigour; the life expectancy is short Dangerous - a tree that should be urgently removed because it presents a hazard Dead - a tree that has died and needs to be removed Using the survey data, works on the trees can be prioritised and sensible recommendations for the management of the tree stock can be made.

LandmarkTrading

August 29

Experienced Climber wanted in Wiltshire

We are based in Chippenham Wiltshire, we are looking for a climber for 3 to 4 days work please call 07980 278833

steve griggs

August 21

Experienced Climber Looking for Work in Hampshire and Dorset

Experienced climber looking for work in Hampshire and Dorset. 18 years experience. Day rate - 160.00 Any questions please call Nick - 07709 858 435 Nicholas Butterfield CV 2017.doc

Only-Way-Is-Up-84

August 19

Whats this wood?

Hi Ive got a collection of this wood, not sure what it is and weather its ok to burn etc, anyone know what it is? Cheers.

Will30

August 15

Macallister bnq

Hi, iam relatively new to chainsaws etc. I purcused a macallister petrol 2 stroke chainsaw from bnq last year and more recently had the teeth sharpened. As soon as l make any contact with a log it kicks and sticks into the wood and l struggle to get it out again. Any ideas or suggestions would be much appreciated!... many thanks will.

Will30

August 14

Land Rover winch

Which winch would be most suited to fit to front of Landrover Defender for tree work Hydraulic, PTO or Electric

Charlton

July 30

gloves A Buyer's Guide to Workwear Gloves

Gloves are an essential element of personal protective equipment (PPE) for arborists and anyone working in the forestry industry. They serve several purposes including protection against chainsaw injuries, the reduction of the impact of vibration, improved grip, protection from thorns and splinters from branches and in protecting the skin from cold and moisture. Before you rush out and purchase a pack of workwear gloves, it is important that you assess the tasks that you will be using them for and are clear about what you expect from the gloves. This allows you to select the right brand based on grip, dexterity, size and breathability. Here are the main considerations that you should take into account. Size of workwear gloves All PPE must fit if is going to afford the required protection and not interfere with work tasks. Guidance from the Health and Safety Executive makes it clear that workwear gloves must suit the user in terms of size, fit and weight. To find your glove size, measure the width of your hand at the widest point (across the knuckles). Then the following size guide will indicate which glove size to select. Small: up to 8.5cm Medium 8.5-9.5cm Large: 9.5-10.5cm X large: 10.5-11.5cm XX large: over 11.5cm Some ranges are available in all of the sizes. In particular, Maxiflex Endurance and Maxitherm gloves are comfortable and hard-wearing options. Chainsaw gloves Gloves with a neoprene band across the back will protect your knuckles and a knitted cuff will stop debris from falling in. For maximum comfort, choose a supple glove with palms and fingers made from a flexible material such as leather and a stretch fabric at the back. A good all round, durable option is a pair of Husqvarna chainsaw gloves. When working in wet conditions, a synthetic glove with rubberised pads on the palm and fingertips will help with grip and the Harkie chainsaw gloves are ideal. Climbing and dexterity gloves The ideal glove for climbing: Makes it easy to use karabiners and climbing devices Has dots for grip on the palm and fingers Is durable Is breathable Is machine washable The Maxiflex Endurance glove ticks all the boxes. For dexterity, a glove must have a very thin coating, be ergonomically shaped and be both breathable and durable. The world benchmark for precision handling is undoubtedly the Maxiflex Ultimate. Waterproof and thorn resistant gloves The ideal waterproof workwear glove will provide you with comfort and grip and, at the same time, will keep your hands dry. An extra desirable feature is resistance to oil and chemicals. To prevent fatigue, the glove should mimic the ‘hand at rest’ position. All of these features are found in the Maxidry Zero and the Maxidry Regular. Thorns are a particular hazard faced by arborists and forestry workers. A specialised needle-resistant glove would be required to afford complete protection from thorn penetration, but for those not wanting to spend such fortunes, the B771 Drivers thick leather and open cuff glove or the B773 Drivers knitwrist glove are good choices to offer a reasonable level of resistance. You may prefer the B776 Leather gauntlet but it is made from a stiffer material and may lead to hand fatigue if used over a prolonged period of time.

LandmarkTrading

July 11

tree climbing harness Tree Climbing Harnesses: A Buyer's Guide

Accident data collected by the Health and Safety Executive reveals that working at height is the biggest causes of fatalities and major injuries at work in the UK. As an arborist or a forestry worker, your harness is integral to protecting your health and safety. At the same time, it needs to be comfortable and must allow you to do your job. Choosing a tree climbing harness is an extremely important decision and shouldn’t be taken lightly or just based on the cheapest option. You will be using your harness every working day for the next five years or so potentially. Cost is clearly an important factor but the harness must also suit your physical build, your centre of gravity and work style. Types of harness There are two main categories of harness: Work positioning or suspension harnesses The harness will give you the mobility to position yourself safely and correctly and will support you in an upright position. Both hands are free as the harness is suspended from an overhead tie-in point. Harnesses must comply with EN358 / EN813 safety standards. Good options are the Edelrid Tree Core Harness with comfortable back padding and the TreeMOTION harness with easy adjustment of the suspension system. Fall arrest or fall restraint harnesses These harnesses are designed to be anchored to a fixed point such as a structure or platform and not for tree climbing. A restraint lanyard is required. As an arborist, you may need this type of harness when you are working on a mobile elevated work platform (for example, a cherry picker). Suitable options would be the Titan fall arrest safety harness or Duraflex fall arrest safety harnesses. Leg position This is a matter of personal preference so trying out the harness before you make the purchase is definitely preferential if possible. The two main categories are: Sit harnesses The Willans harness is a good example of a sit harness which bears the weight of the climber on a strap underneath their buttocks. The alternative is a rigid central strap like the Dragonfly harness. A sit harness is a good investment if you need to hang free for longer periods of time. They may be more suitable for arborists with a bigger build. Harnesses with individual leg straps. Harnesses such as the Bolt Orion harness or the Petzl Sequoia harness take most of your weight on padded leg straps. You need to make sure that the leg straps are adjusted properly to help prevent them pinching. These are often more comfortable if you need to move around a lot in the canopy as they allow more unrestricted freedom of movement. Attachment With your central attachment point from the waist of an arborist harness, you have the choice of sliding or fixed. A sliding ring affords more lateral freedom and that eases the strain on the user’s hips and back. This is the most popular type, however, new users may feel more secure with a fixed ‘D’ or ring attachment. There are usually loops for specific tools that can bear specified weights. For example, the TreeMOTION harness uses colour coded rings to indicate which loops are for lanyards and which are gear loops.

LandmarkTrading

July 3

safety equiupment A Guide to Personal Protective Equipment and Workwear

There is a raft of regulations governing health and safety in UK workplaces. It is the responsibility of every employer to be aware of the regulations and to comply with them. The regulations come under the umbrella act which is The Health and Safety at Work etc Act 1974 although you may see it written as HSWA. The act places a duty on employers to “ensure, so far as is reasonably practicable, the health, safety and welfare at work of all his employees”. If, as an employer, you fail in this duty, you face enforcement action by the Health and Safety Executive or a local authority. There are numerous regulations made under the parent act and the regulations governing personal protective equipment are the Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations 1992. The role of Personal Protective Equipment in Health and Safety The role of personal protective equipment (PPE) in health and safety is frequently misunderstood. The Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations 1992 is very clear, however, about what an employer’s duties are. PPE is regarded as a last resort. You are required to assess the hazards presented to your employees through a thorough risk assessment and then implement controls to minimise the risks of those hazards. Engineering controls and safe systems of work should be considered before PPE. This could be through the use of alternative equipment or by adopting a different way of working. Where this is not possible, PPE is required. What do the regulations require? Regulation 4 governs the provision of personal protective equipment and states that: “Every employer shall ensure that suitable personal protective equipment is provided to his employees who may be exposed to a risk to their health or safety while at work” Furthermore, Regulation 2(1) provides a clear definition of PPE as: “…all equipment (including clothing affording protection against the weather) which is intended to be worn or held by a person at work and which protects him against one or more risks to his health or safety, and any addition or accessory designed to meet that objective.” General PPE Requirements All items of PPE that you provide need to meet the relevant legal standards and must be “CE” marked which means it meets European Union standards. Some European standards have been superseded by International Standards (prefixed ISO) and if adopted in the UK will be prefixed BS. There are specific guidance notes from the HSE for each item of PPE. Simply providing PPE is not enough. It must be stored appropriately and regularly checked to ensure that it is working correctly. Worn or damaged equipment must be immediately replaced. It must fit the employee who is required to use it, so a range of sizes to accommodate different employees will be required. Some PPE will need to be personalised for each employee. Face and eye protection is a typical example and will need to accommodate an employee’s prescription glasses. Badly fitting PPE cannot perform its function adequately and is distracting. Various items of PPE need to be able to work together so head protection must fit with eye protection. Sometimes, helmets with built-in eye or ear protection are the most appropriate option. Specific Requirements for Arborists, Tree Surgeons and Forestry Workers The HSE provides specific advice for each work task carried out by arborists, tree surgeons and forestry workers, such as guidance on aerial work. As an illustration, chainsaw users involved in aerial tree work would require: A safety helmet, a 4-point chin strap mountaineering style helmet complying with BS EN 12492 primarily to protect from falling objects. Must be compatible with chosen eye and hearing protection. Eye protection. This must comply with either BS EN 1731 or BS EN 166) to protect from flying debris, dust or other particles. Must be compatible with other PPE. Hearing protection to protect hearing from exposure to the noise of power tools complying with BS EN 352. Must be compatible with other PPE. Chainsaw boots to help protect the feet from chainsaw injury. Must have steel toecaps and be chainsaw protective complying with EN ISO 17249 Leg and groin protection to help protect against chainsaw injury and debris. Complying with BS EN 381-5 and type selected after careful risk assessment. Gloves to protect from sharp objects, machinery and cold. Appropriate clothing (for example non-snag and high visibility) Employees must know how to use the PPE and must understand the importance of using it. This requires both initial and ongoing training. When a new work task or a new item of PPE is introduced, new training is required. As the employer, you bear the cost of the PPE, not your employees, and ultimately it is your job to make sure you are compliant with all the regulations for outdoor work.

LandmarkTrading

June 26

Carb removal MS 271

part rant part request for help... I need to clean the carb on my 271 but once I get to it I seem to need a long 8mm (I think) socket to remove the 2 nuts on the back of it. anything over 7mm wont go down the hole, I'm about ready to grind one of my 8mm sockets down to fit in the hole... Am i right or am I missing a trick? Also is it 8mm before I start grinding?

GazN

June 25

Active crews in central Portugal June 2018

Hi all.
I'm looking to join up with any active crews in central Portugal. My local town is Soure (Coimbra district)
More than 20 years experience, climbing & groundwork.
I have a car & basic one-man kit.
I also work in the UK but always looking to get more work & contacts in Portugal as I have a house there.
To avoid time waste I'm 50 years young.

AdzLee

June 21

Most lame claim by staff

Can't go into detail but just heard in work of a claim one of the groundies has put in whilst carrying out his work. It annoyed me so much I was wondering what's the worst excuse to claim against a business you've had/heard of?

GazN

June 15

Hand Pruning Saws

Hand Pruning Saws Sheathed Saw vs Pole Saw vs Pocket Saw Hand pruning saws are essential tools for arborist, landscapers and forestry workers when pruning shrubs and trees, and woodworking. These sharp cutting saws are a common alternative to using a chainsaw for light work, and can also be used in combination with the chainsaw to complete heavy-duty tasks. Robust, handheld Silky Saw's are designed in a variety of sizes with a range of razor-sharp teeth configurations, and have long been the choice of professionals. Today, we are reviewing the most popular Sheathed, Pole and Pocket Saws from our list of the top 10 pruning saws. Please feel free to comment and share your reviews. 1. Silky Zübat Sheathed Saw
The Silky Zübat Saw is a heavy duty sheathed saw featuring 7.5 teeth per 30mm. This razor sharp saw has been manufactured with a low curved blade and is ideal for delimbing large branches, including those above shoulder height. Comfort is assured with this saw by means of its moulded rubber handle. The saw comes with a scabbard with a constructed handle to creating a firm lock. Available in sizes 24cm-39cm. 7.5 teeth per 30mm Ideal for delimbing large branches Moulded rubber handle Available in sizes 24cm-39cm Reviews: 2. Silky Zübat 2700 Pole Saw The Silky Zübat Pole Saw 2700 is telescopic saw extending up to 8.85ft with a blade length of 15". This is the perfect saw for pruning branches at height without the need to climb. Its oval-shaped pole assures firmness and strength while sawing, in addition to allowing the user full control over the direction of the cut. The saws unique four cutting angles allow a fast and smooth cut, while shock absorber via the pole end ensures great comfort. Extends up to 8.85ft Remains firm when extended Blade length: 15" Four cutting angles
Review: 3. Silky Gomboy 210-10 Pocket Saw
The Silky Gomboy 210-10 Pocket Saw contains 10 teeth per 30mm which are impulse hardened to ensure strength and durability are maintained. The blade itself is extremely thin and tough meaning that the saw will not bend as it cuts on the pull. Its handle has been designed using a rubber, insert processed steel for comfort and toughness. All folding Silky Saws utilise a safety lock system to ensure the blade remains still when folded. 10 teeth per 30mm Thin and tough blade Comfortable firm handle Safety lock system Review:

Northern Arb Supplies

March 23

Metrics to Help Your Tree Care Company

Even when it comes to the tree care industry, numbers are important.

If you don’t see the numbers, or the impact they have on your tree care business, you could be missing growth opportunities.

Return on Marketing

Stop and ask how new clients are finding out about you. Did they come from past clients, new referrals, radio ads, yard signage, billboard adds, or social media for example?

It’s simple; whenever you get a new call always ask, “Well, how did you hear about us?” This helps you gauge your marketing efforts. You can now start to make your marketing strategies as precise as your felling cuts.

A common metric is that every ₤1 you invest in marketing should create at least ₤5 in revenue.

For example, if you invested ₤500 into marketing, your target revenue should be ₤2,500.

If this is not the case, take a look at your past client demographics. Did you receive business mainly from residents, businesses, realtors, landscape referrals, municipalities, etc.? Once you know this, you can think about how you got them and use the marketing medium that caters best to that specific group.

Sales Conversion

Next, we have to go out and close the prospective clients. This is about your closing percentage.

Take the number of jobs that you got, divided by the total number of jobs that you assessed.

For example, if you looked at 25 jobs and closed 12, then you have a 48% closing rate. This allows you to see how successful you are at selling your services. Your sales conversion ratio can tell you a lot about your sales process.

Once you know and understand this number, you can ask better questions, especially if your results are not favorable, for instance, “Did we over-bid on these jobs”, “Did we not present our unique value proposition well enough to prospective clients.”

Gross Margin

Understanding margin help you control profitability better. This formula is simple and all about efficiency…

Sales minus Direct Cost = Gross Profit

Your direct cost is essentially the money you have to spend to get the job done, for example, the cost of haulers, climbers, and ground personnel (the individuals who are directly providing the service).

First, set a gross profit % target. This depends on several factors: how you operate, your personnel, the amount of equipment used, and your profitability target. If you desire a 50% margin, your total direct labor costs should not exceed 50%. So, if you bid on a job for ₤2,000, then your costs should not be over ₤1,000. Your desired gross margin depends on the amount of sales and the return that the company needs, to not just stay in business, but to thrive.

Typically, gross margin should be at least 30% to ensure that the company has enough sales to cover the remaining fixed and variable costs of the business.
Second, use a simple spreadsheet to track your gross profit per job. Start with the price of the job minus the direct hauling, climbing, and ground costs. Knowing the power of margin helps you make course corrections quicker along the way.

Keep these 3 metrics in mind as you manage your tree service. Edward Morrow, Accountant, Author, Arborist

Ed Morrow

February 4

MultiOne5.3 Model with the Kelfri Log Grab

The Kelfri Log Grapple, on a MultiOne 5.3 Model. Large capacity grapple on one of our most popular loader models. The MultiOne 5 Series Telescopic Boom Mini Articulated Loader is a compact articulated mini loader offer a winning combination of performance and low operating costs. No compromise between performance, power, economy, innovation, technology and design. It stands to reason that this model is the most popular offer- available in the market to date. The telescopic boom combined with the compact size makes the 5 Series the right choice for anyone who needs boom outreach coupled with great agility in narrow spaces: from the DIY to the demanding professional. Check The MultiOne UK Channel For More MultiOne Videos. https://www.youtube.com/MultiOneUK

MultiOne_UK

January 29

MultiOne UK Announces New Dealer - HQ Forklifts Ltd

Leading British importer of multifunction loaders MultiOne UK, announces a new dealership in the Cambridgeshire Fens region. With immediate effect, HQ Forklifts Ltd will offer special sales, support and service for MultiOne users. Based in Doddington, Cambridgeshire, HQ Forklifts Ltd are well positioned and equipped to support the Cambridgeshire region. Designed and manufactured in Italy, the MultiOne mini loaders have been sold globally for 18 years by MultiOne SRL who have pioneered a complete range of multifunction loaders with advanced hydraulics, innovative design and Kubota & Yanmar engines. ABOUT HQ FORKLIFTS LTD HQ Forklifts Ltd is a family run materials handling business based in the heart of the Fens in East Anglia. The company prides itself on establishing and maintaining excellent customer relations, giving support 24 hours day, 365 days a year. With 5 mobile workshop vans, HQ Forklifts Ltd is able to service most types of material handling equipment including the MultiOne, and can already maintain machines within a 50-mile radius of the HQ Forklifts Ltd base. As members of the CFTS (Consolidated Fork Truck Services), HQ are fully qualified to carry out thorough inspections (LOLER) on the full range of MultiOne Mini Loaders, attachments and other material handling equipment. The HQ Forklifts Ltd sales team are geared to offer on-site non-obligation demonstrations of the MultiOne product and the numerous attachments MultiOne offer to all types of businesses including builders, farmers, nurseries, event companies, landscape gardeners and to any other business that needs to use a small pivot machine in confined spaces This partnership strengthens the MultiOne representation which already includes East Midlands, Yorkshire & The Humber, North West England, South East and Northern Ireland. The demand for MultiOne mini loaders has increased over the last 12 months mainly due to the MultiOne unique benefits such as the 170 attachments available, it’s impressive power, performance and the ability to manoeuvre in hard to get places. Over 170 Attachments Available The MultiOne range extends over 25 different models offering a wide range of working weights from the 12hp (tipping load of 250kg) of the MultiOne Baby 1 Series to the 78hp (with a max lifting capacity of 2700kg) of the Powerful MultiOne 10 Series. As with the competition in this sector, the MultiOne offers innovative solutions for those looking to maximize productivity in every industry from agriculture, construction, forestry, maintenance and greencare. With over 170 attachments available that can be changed within a matter of seconds, it ensures a solution is at hand for every task at a drop of a hat. Dig, Mow, Lift, Mix, Scrape, Carry, Trench, Plough, Grab, Sweep, Wash, Rake, Spray and much much more. Expensive labour costs are also reduced by mechanising a vast array of jobs. Hydraulic quick coupling systems are standard on all loaders providing effortless change over of attachments. This certainly provides One Total Solution. MultiOne was recently voted “Best in Class” by Farmers Guardian magazine To request a MultiOne demonstration from HQ Forklift Ltd, please contact them directly on 01354 740100, or visit their offices and showroom at Unit 6, Wheelhead Farm, Turf Fen Lane, Doddington. Cambridgeshire. PE15 0TB

MultiOne_UK

November 9, 2017

Is the horbeam a suitable street tree for Catalonia (Spain)?

The hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) in Catalonia This year we have planted 11 European hornbeams in the streets of Olot, Catalonia. planting of hornbeam as street tree in Olot, Catalonia After an initially good start, we saw the newly planted trees suffer during the extremely hot and dry summer. The trees showed different signs of stress in midsummer (wilting of leafs and leaf loss), which are of course not uncommon for freshly planted trees. leafs are wilting and turning brown in june The young trees haven’t had time to develop a proper root system after they have been taken out of the field in the nursery. Which makes it difficult for them to absorb enough water to sustain the leafs in the tree crown. primary roots have been cut in nursery to create rootball But it was not until we had seen the hornbeam in its natural habitat in Eastern Europe forests before we started to ask ourselves the question: Is the hornbeam a suitable tree for the landscape in Catalonia? hornbeam in Poland In order to answer this question we made a small study of its natural habitat and its preferences and compared this parameters to the situation in Catalonia. Distribution The hornbeam is native to central, eastern, and southern Europe, including southern England. It can also be found in Western Asia (source Wikipedia). map of the distribution in Europe (wikipedia) The map shows us that the hornbeam is not native in Spain, although it is in some countries nearby such as France and Italy. However the (small orange triangle) in Catalonia means that the tree has been introduced and naturalized in this area. Natural habit The hornbeam prefers growing in a shade place with a moderate soil fertility and also moderate moisture. It likes growing in forests of oak and beech trees and is often found near the borders of the forests. It is also common in wet areas near rivers (source wikepedia, árboles de Europa, Margot y Roland Spohn) Most street trees have a lot of sun hours in Catalonia, due to the high sun elevation angle. During summer days there isn’t much shade for normal street trees. The soil fertility strongly varies in the different areas of Catalonia, however the fertility of the soil within a city is normally poor. Not only do the trees in cities have little soil available, but there also hardly isn’t any organic layer in the soil. The moisture level of the soil is low during summer. During hot periods in Catalonia the soil can even completely dry out. Conclusion All together the conditions in Catalonia don’t seem to be favourable for the hornbeam. Some parameters can be improved, such as the soil fertility and the humidity by adding fertilizers or installing a water system. It also possible to plant the hornbeam in the shade of a high building, bridge or other high trees. Before planting the hornbeam it is recommendable to improve the soil condition by adding organic material. After the planting it is important to provide enough water until the roots are developed. We are going to continue monitoring the development of the planted Hornbeams in Olot and next year we can hopefully dedicate an new post to them. What is your experience with the hornbeam? Please let us know by writing a comment. leafs of the hornbeam this blog is an adaption from: http://www.podagirona.com/en/the-hornbeam-carpinus-betulus-in-catalonia/

Poda Girona

August 30, 2017

Coriolopsis gallica

Seems to be the season for Coriolopsis gallica. This is a tier of brackets on a living Prunus padus street tree in Hackney. It took me a while to get to the ID since I associate Coriolopsis gallica with deadwood and ash. It is also fruiting in nearby Clissold park on a huge ash log. @treeruss

Russell Miller

August 11, 2017

Compact Bulldog Bone

It is an exciting time for tree climbers. Equipment and techniques are developing to not only promote safe working practices but to allow you to work smarter and not harder. The working life expectancy of a climber can be prolonged with hopefully less wear and tear being picked up on the way. One such development in Arb climbing is the use of SRT climbing systems. SRT has been used for a number of years for canopy access, borrowing ideas and kit from rock climbing, caving etc. Traditional ascenders have always been great a capturing progress but have lacked the ability to descend should the need arise. In the last few years people have gone out on a limb like Morgan Thompson with his Unicender, Kevin Bingham with the Rope Wrench and then the Rope Runner, to develop tools that capture ascent but can be used to descend aswell. Another such pioneer in SRT Work positioning is Gordon Svedberg AKA Surveyor on forums such as The Buzz, Treehouse and Arbtalk. After producing hybrid devices such as the OAR, Gordon came up with the idea of the Compact Bulldog Bone. Having had the idea and developed prototypes, Gordon put out his design to a number of local arbs for testing and feedback via the Treebuzz internet forum in August 2014. This not only proved to be a great method of getting the Bone out there, but provided a valuable source of information and feedback from the users to the developer. Gordon took on board the feedback and over the next few months tried to incorporate the likes and dislikes he had received by tweaking the design of the Bone to allow for different users desires and rope types. The main aims being to develop one device to allow the climber to seemlessly ascend and descend and be mid-line attachable with no droppable parts. The Bone goes on the rope in seconds and can be removed in the same time frame. The Bone is made of simple parts that are easy to replace. The result of this is a Mechanical Ascender/descender, that is easy to modify and tune to your exact requirements. Although being mechanical, it operates with a very hitch like feel. For more information on the development process and the history of the device, pull up a chair, grab and drink and a 'sammich' and log onto Gordon ships the BDB after having received a signed disclaimer and payment for the product and postage. The BDB ships with instructions and 3 different sized bollards to be used on the top arm to control friction for ropes of different diameter. I received my BDB in January after reading the hype on various internet forums. I was not disappointed. First impression were of a solid, robust (read bombproof) piece of kit that I couldn't wait to use. After reading about the various modifications and development I already felt like I knew exactly how it would respond. After a couple of goes low and slow, I tried the BDB on my favourite rope, Cougar Blue with the 5/8th bollard. It responded very much like a hitch but I felt it needed a bit of time to bed in, or I needed to get used to it at least. The first 4 or 5 climbs I had on the BDB were in the rain, I was crying for a dry day. Even in the rain, once the ascent was dialled in with a HAAS and pantin, the BDB ate the rope for lunch. Desending was a bit of an on off affair till you get used to it. After a particular wet day, working over a goose enclosure my rope needed a wash... WOW! What a difference that made. The BDB literally tends slack so easily you can clip into a neck tether or chest harness and freeclimb the tree and it takes it all in with minimum sitback. My BDB self tends with approx 20 foot of line below me. Same deal with spikes, either spike the tree and it will tend depending on the rope angle or clip into a pantin or spikecender and up you go. The more I have used this device the more I am growing to love it. There has been some initial wear on the spine as the ropes and device get to know each other, but nothing to worry about at this stage. One of the main selling points of this device is how easy it is to set it on the rope. Everything is connected so there is no worry of dropping any parts. It is a case of threading the rope into the arms, bending the rope and sliding a link over the rope and locking clasp. This is just as easy to remove, just in reverse, making change overs or redirects less of a challenge and reducing the risk of getting your climbing device jammed in a fork. As mentioned, there are various modifications you can do to personalise your Bone. The only thing I have done is adjust the tending point from the spine to the top arm. In doing so, the top arm releases allowing the rope to flow even smoother through it without compromising safety. There are a few vids and reviews of the BDB on youtube. For more information on the Compact Bulldog Bone, please read the Arbtalk thread posted above. If you want to contact Gordon directly to order or simply query his design then his email is gordonandkathy@aol.com Richard Rule Freelance Climber

Rich Rule

July 29, 2017

carving (for) fun

I don't have a garden, or not much of one, and anyway, what there is has no road frontage whatsoever. However, some friends run a tearooms and keep chickens at a place not too far away that is situated on a country lane that is often used as a 'rat run' to get to a nearby city rather than use the often clogged main route. Over the winter they noticed that a large Leylandii between their car park and the road was showing signs of lifting the car park in strong winds, so it had to come down as sooner or later it was going to fall on a nearby building! I carve normally in the yard of a tree surgeon who has a house in our village that has a tall carving in the garden and many customers come into the yard and mention that they have seen it and all comments are complimentary, but of course, I have to admit that it is not my carving and the credit must go to the tree surgeon. ( although I have done some maintenance on it) Long story short, I got my tree surgeon pal to cut the tree down to a height that I marked on it and volunteered to carve the trunk(s). My friends at the tea room had only one request, that whatever I carved had to be 'Fun'. I've done a number of 'on site' carvings, but always to a brief set by the clients. This one is so much different, as I have a complete free rein to do whatever I like, as long as it is fun. I am carving this in what I loosely refer to as my 'free time' which basically means the occasional weekend/Sunday, and that is also weather dependant. I therefore anticipate that it will take most of the summer months. These images are the tree after crown removal, followed by a couple taken after a couple of sessions at the top of a scaffold tower which needs removing at the end of each session. I'll keep you updated as I progress with it.

Ukulian

July 28, 2017

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