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Ben Pinnick

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  1. It's a fungi I can't rember the name of that tends to live between bark and wood on felled timber. I get it on mine if I get the timing just right for when the bark is ready to fall off, but not actually off. Once it's off it tends to die back again. It's totally harmless if looks a little ugly.
  2. Before you buy check what bar you have on there. It will say on the bar what chain it runs, you'd expect it to say 14" 3/8 0.50 and some number of drive links (52dl maybe). Let us know what's on there.
  3. I had a grenade, but I find they move about too much for the really gnarly stuff thats always cut squiffy anyway. Now I run a saw over it to start a slot, and use an Erstwing star wedge, which is a straight wedge with a flared bit half way up so it goes in straight and true rather than moving around, but then prys the wood apart as it gets deeper in. Means you can really take to it with the hammer on your splitting maul. + 1 for the X27, and also an X10 is an excellent hatchet that cuts way bigger stuff than it should. I also use the fiskar's sharpener which is really easy and keeps them very sharp But as rob_the_sparky says use your maul for a while until you're good with it. Don't waste a decent axe burying it into the ground!
  4. The roughneck splitting maul will do the job fine for a while. I had one for a couple of years, just keep the hatchet sharp. For a chopping block just use the biggest flattest slab of wood in your pile. Looks like you have a few that would suit. Use it on grass or similar until you get good though. Unless you want to mash it into tarmac 😂
  5. The main problem to focus on is getting the oil/creosote out of them. The longer you can leave them exposed to wind/air then the better. So the quicker you cut them the better as you increase the surface area as long as you have the space to store it. Particularly if you have to leave it in contact with the ground then better to leave it whole for now until you have some storage. A basic 4 pallet set up would cover that pile though, 2 on the ground, two screwed (one each end) to make sides, tarp over the top (later; I would leave exposed to the elements for a few months personally as this speeds up the seasoning), job done. You can tell when you split down the wood how seasoned it is from the smell. even a dry split log can smell pretty 'piney' if not aged properly when you split it again, whereas one thats been properly seasoned will have almost no smell at all when split again, just the faintest whiff of pine. Likewise the bark should be falling off when its ready to burn, not still attached. You'll also know from how dirty your fire burns. Fully seasoned softwood will burn cleanly leaving no glass deposits (unless you burn it wet or its leaning right on the glass).
  6. Yeah nothing wrong with softwood as long as you season it properly. I get mine in bulk 😉
  7. Drying it isn't a problem, it will dry quickly. You need to get it seasoned. I stack it in the open for min 6 months, not covered just in a stack. Then when there's a good dry spell at the right time bring it under cover allowing a couple of months for it to dry out the final bit. Having said all that my source wood is already a year old in the log stack. So you may need longer to season. Best get it done!
  8. Fwiw I was in the workshop just now and checked my husky lid and no chainsaw, just the en397 mark.
  9. This is a good question I wonder about too - I understand when payments were high for alternative heating sources it made sense - you were getting paid to burn wood to dry wood, but now they're gone whats the benefit of kiln drying from a commercial perspective? Unless its dry packaged in plastic or similar it gains back moisture so fast it will become ordinary barn stored wood %age very quickly, or worse if stored badly by a retailer. Is it just to keep up with ever increasing demand or does it have real end user benefit (if not bought in a sealed pack)?
  10. Don't know but given the prices these departments often pay for off the shelf stuff I'd like the contract to supply it!
  11. I think they're different in the US/Canada. I did check it out and all shots in that market are SugiHaras, and they have a dfferent (although very similar) part code. I would guess supply constraints won out and they had to split the orders. High grade steel is hard to get right now.
  12. I think there may be a difference - the presumption will be (like PRS for music in workplaces) that there's always a need to be registered, rather than notifiable work for electricians where its possible to carry on a business without ever doing a notifiable job on your own (You only need someone to do it for you at the end as I understand it so their could be unlimited sub contract sparkies doing the work with just one ticketed person or a building inspector at the end of the job). PRS operates as guilty until proven innocent, unlike the electrician certs. I suspect Woodsure will take the same approach; if not registered you are likely to be in breach of the regs and pursue as such.
  13. Is it me or is the GB a bad colour match for a husky? At the risk of sounding like a princess, I don't think I could live with it being 2 shades different 🤣🤣 My day job is in an industry where thats really important to our customers and I think I've become conditioned to hate it.
  14. Hmm interesting - that price for 565 must make it more the 365 was but I'm looking at Radmore and Tucker, seems 565 is £747 and 572 is £811, so maybe has changed since you bought yours? Yeah I got mine for a lot less than 747 - it was mid lock downs when everyone was doing very little but supplies were still good. I paid £700 but I got a c85 chain & 5L of Husky bar oil thrown in. So the saw would have been probably £660 on its own? Its handy that Im split between 2 decent dealers and one is Sam Turner so I have a really good price locally to negotiate from. At the time the 572 was a bit higher than right now... in theory. I just checked to see the lay of the land and you can't get a 565 from any of the usual suspects, and only Honey Bros seems to have 572s at £919 for a 20" so its all a bit moot until supply is good again and you can ship around! The £220 difference I mentioned is between RRPs.
  15. This is always the problem. Creeping costs of regulation mean there's going to be favouritism for larger wholesales that are regulated who then pass certified product to the 'retailer'. In an ideal world I think they'd prefer one wholesaler!

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