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Rob D

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  • Birthday 22/02/1973

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  1. Yep the longer lo pro bars should be in around the 8th September - has been a long wait on this order. Apologies to those waiting. Main tip is chain sharpening. It's the biggest issue we have. For some reason it seems that everyone wants to complicate why their mill is not cutting straight. It's the rails/it's the mill/it's the bar... Each time to date when we get the stuff back - it's the chain is dull - every single time [no doubt I'll eat these words!]. A very slight undulation in your first cut rails, a perception that the bar has a slight bend... all will not stop that bar and chain from cutting. The only thing that will stop that mill from cutting is the chain. We have a case right now were a customer is so sure that the bar is too thick for the chain and that's why it is not cutting. I'm not saying it's impossible - but it is highly unlikely. If the bar does not wish to enter the wood - the chain is dull. If it's a new chain then somewhere along the line it has gotten dulled! If the bar is very well used that can cause issues - but 99 out of 100 [or even 999 out of 1000] it is always the chain. The very hardest part is when a customer tells us they just sharpened the chain and that they have used a saw for 20 years - is there a way to tell someone gently that they have not been sharpening correctly all this time? If there is I'd love to hear it! i tend to go down the line of 'it's hard to get the ripping chain spot on'. Sharpening a saw to cross cut and get it to move through the wood is easy - you can get it 30% right and with enough force and persistence [and burning bar oil and blued rails] and you can get it to cut wood - with milling the margin is much much higher ie. it needs to be at least 70% right. So to mill right your chain needs to be right - I can do a hand or free hand sharpen - but only badly. Every 3 or 4 sharpens I have to use a guide to get all the angles and teeth spot on. It's nothing to be ashamed about but seems people are. Anyways hope that helps
  2. Rob D

    New Chain Keeper

    Yep it's really more for long bars and milling where you often move them from place to place and have a selection of bars - this keeps everything together and no need to have a tangle of chain to figure out. I have about x10 all hanging up but when moving them out for a job the chain comes off and always gets tangled. This makes it a tidy job and you can quickly fit the bar and chain to a saw and take the previous one off and stow it.
  3. Rob D

    New Chain Keeper

    Nothing at all - but this is more for doing that and transporting the bar and chain. Or if you don't want to hang them up you can store horizontally [the option to hang is just that - one option]. If you always hang your bars and put them straight onto a saw then you don't need one
  4. If the chain adjuster is maxed out that is the chain has stretched and not an indication the bar has worn out necessarily unless I have read the post wrong.
  5. Rob D

    New Chain Keeper

    Found here https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/pck-panther-chain-keeper/
  6. Brand new product - for shorter bars and chains its not so relevant but for longer bars and chains this works really well. Keeps it all together hanging or in transit. Special launch offer...
  7. Often it is the drive sprocket is at fault for bar wear/chipped bars/snapped chains. Particularly if the sprocket is in board and not easily seen. Always worth checking before you buy a new bar and chain.
  8. First outing of tools today - great fun to use - can turn any bit of wood into something usable. Did a load of vids which I'll post later.
  9. Have updated a few products here https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product-category/manpa/ This 4" cutter is actually the best buy at £74+vat and beats the arbotech on price https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/mp21-4-8-circular-cutter/
  10. Yep - I like how they choose 'relatively safe' rather than 'elatively dangerous'... I think these are smoother - for one thing the 4" version has x4 cutter heads rather than x3, the 3" and 2" cutters have x3 cutters instead of x2. The reach they have is better and with the extension you can be a long way away from the cutting teeth.
  11. PS Like most new tools and equipment we'll do a decent pre order offer on all these for the first time round - waiting to here on lead time of first order... keep your eye on here.
  12. I suppose at the other end of the scale on ebay you have this - which on the plus side is 'relatively safe'! £11.82 direct from Hong Kong can't be bad!
  13. Our distribution company Always Greener Ltd have the distribution for Manpa power carving tools. I have the test order and they do look excellent. In fact so good I really want to use them myself! Drawback is - they will be expensive... not eye wateringly so... but there will be some wincing and sharp intakes of breath. But everything about them seems good - packaging, info, instructions. Made in Korea - am uploading them here https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product-category/manpa/ On the plus side they have tools I have never seen before - you'll be able to do things you never done before! So I guess there is a price to pay for innovation. That said they are not that much more than the Arbortech tools - but I always thought they were expensive! I suppose it comes to scale of production - but it's still hits you the angle grinder that powers it is 20% of the price of the tool on the end of it! The pros are - what a range of exciting tools to carve wood with! Have put together a playlist here:
  14. The great thing about the Granberg is you can sharpen accurately while 'still in the mill'. Hopefully if this Vallorbe is a) not too expensive b) they could maybe convert it to 12v and have it so it will sharpen a bar while still on a chainsaw mill... I expect there are a few issues to over come doing that..
  15. No idea.... it's not out yet. I am pestering the rep for Workwear who import/will be importing these.


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