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As a matter of interest where was the saw purchased/returned to?

Most Stihl machines i have seen have compensator carbs, so i cant imagine the air filter would be the issue, unless it is completely blocked.

You should in no circumstances be tampering with the carb this will invalidate the warranty, anybody telling you to do this on a new saw is an idiot, you have no idea what you are doing and have probably done more harm than good, i give up.

An on line supplier still has an obligation to look after machines they have sold, your next step is to contact the supplier and put it back on them, your contract is with them, they have taken your money, if no joy contact the first and garden office in Aycliffe, if it’s one of their dealers they should sort it out with them, all the joys of buying online.

Not sure i would have drilled out the hole, it uses a micro bore hose which as said is an interference fit in the tank, this hose does not kink easily which is necessary as it takes a strange route up and over the top of the carb, bigger diameter tube may not be quite so suitable, it also must move freely through the crankcase.

There were a few modifications done after this year. Removing the hose from the breather, the hose is then blanked off, and the breather left open. Removing the fuel hose from its location, and shortening so as to keep it further from the cylinder ( this does entail re positioning the carb inlet elbow). Slot cut out of the top cover to allow better cooling of the rear of the cylinder. You can also blank off the the deco valve. Use the purge to pull cooler fuel through the carb.

Level with the floor not the sides.

So this was an entry level saw, produced in the American Poulan factory so let’s not be expecting it to perform like an XP saw, the fuel tank breather is in the top of the tank so you need to remove the tank to access it, so check it’s function, the fuel filter in the take was a crappy thing so replace, the rubber inlet tube and impulse tubes can crack and leak air, failing this you may be expecting to much from it, it could well be a case of vapour lock.

A standard instant gasket, without a pressure vac gauge you are always going to be guessing, you say you have done all these things but the answer lies in one of the things suggested, I will reiterate Chinese carbs are crap and could be leading you astray.

There is no chance of the muffler being blocked in my opinion, they are very open.

The 266 never really suffered with any on going issues, from the description it does sound fuel related, when fitting the oil seal in the oil pump you have to be very careful re installing it back over the step in the crank as it will pop the spring out, a small amount of sea lent under the flywheel side oil seal holder is a good idea as the holder is plastic and can distort with age, fuel filter replacement is always done on an old saw, perished fuel hose is another possibility, a pressure test will show this, the HS series carb was very reliable, there are core plugs over the jets which are best removed and cleaned underneath, I have no faith in Chinese carbs. Impulse hole in cylinder blocked or gaskets incorrectly positioned, induction block warped and not seating properly, the early 266 had twin steel piston rings, these did give issues hence the return to a single cast ring, failing this cylinder off to assess piston condition. Excessive air gap between flywheel and ignition unit.

No Steve not the old vibration governor, i meant the ignition governor/limiter, these machines have the blue unit, cant remember now what they were limited too, that's what old age and furlough has done to me. I always let them hit the governor, sorry limiter, and lean off a shade more.

.325 on a 61 why? it had a 3/8 spur sprocket as standard, the rim sprocket will fit from the 266 you then need to get a .325 rim with the large spline, good luck with that.

I also have never seen anything like that, was it running 3/8 chain,

In free air it will hit the governor very quickly, in an ideal world you would adjust the carb under full load, as you will not have the kit to do that, i would lean off till the governor comes in and in a touch more, try in a good size log, under full load it should not hit the governor, as you ease off then yes the governor comes in, you can check the spark plug colour after a few cuts to make sure she is not running too lean, hope all this makes sense.

250PS great machine, was offered with 3/4/5/and 6m hoses, there was also a secateurs attachment, a 250r brush cutter engine unit connected to a small hydraulic pump, it was very reliable unit, never run the the machine without the poles connected as the pressure can go nowhere and either shear the key way or the shaft, there ia an over pressure valve in the motor cutter head, if the return hose is not connected or you kink the hose it will shower you in oil, it was a very expensive machine, the engine unit alone was over £1000, the poles were £600/700, parts are going to be a problem, not for the engine but for the hydraulic side. Thet were heavy on you back, when you take it off you feel like your walking on air.

Keep the taco away from the ignition unit, remove the top cover and push the taco hard against the hot cap, you should then get a correct rpm reading, if you set the speed up to when the ignition cuts in it will be very rich.

And i don't charge for this priceless trivia, i remember the mopeds in Wookworths too, i have the last L65 to come out of that factory but some bugger nicked the chain break off it

A word of advise, if the well side plates are missing then it will not send oil properly to the bar, the big screw on the bottom of the crankcase houses the oil filter underneath.

Oh no Steve that is the A77, the early 65 with the 80cc cylinder, that is why the the plug cap is not under the cover, the 80ccc cylinder spark plug came out 45 degrees rather than 90 degrees, this was the original farmer saw, the L65 was much later, and as you say they sent the tooling to Yugoslavia and they were built in the old Tomas factory, they even fitted a chain break, i got quite nostalgic when i saw that.

The only place the fuel is coming from is the carb, unless you can pressure test the carb it is a waste of time changing gaskets and diaphrams, the issue is more than likely the needle leaking, or incorrectly fitted parts in the carb.

Good lord not seen one of them for 40 years when I worked for a garden machinery dealer, the engines were used a lot on badger cyanide pumps, anyway y Es it is just fuel starvation, as I recall the crank was a three piece thing that twisted if you hit something hard, the only have a small flywheel so rely on the blade as a flywheel, so make sure the blade is real tight, good fue flow from the fuel hose with tap turned on, as you have now cleaned the carb I guess it should fire up ok.

Yes oil quality, or quantity, running at 14000 rpm it's hard to see why it has carboned up the muffler yet shows nothing in the spark arrestor, if the piston is very bad I would certainly pull the seals out and check the condition of the bearing cages, also check the crankcase screws are still tight, depending on the age of this saw, there are a few mods you should do.

Husqvarna felling lever.

Sorry sir, i am sure you would have put it more eloquently, i still have a new top cover assembly for one gathering dust.