adw

1.5 mm ring would be correct, it have started out as a 350, if it has a ser no. plate what does it say?

Old or new these are the parts you would need.

You can retro fit the heated handle kit but the price would mak it non viable, generator, flywheel, top handle, switch kit, rear heater pad and wiring.

There is no mark 11 for the 560/562 just up dates, new crankcase, air filter and yet another change to the main bearing cages.

If that plug has been loose for a while I fear it may well have damaged the threads and will end up blowing the plug out, I am seeing more of this since manufacturers using 10mm spark plugs, anyway chalk another one up Steve, how many more before you are nominated for a knighthood? or at least the prestigious gold chainsaw medal.

18" bar 585950868 18" chain 581626668 20" bar 585950872 20" Chain 581626672 Genuine Husqvarna bars and chains

Should have included this for anybody wishing to update their saw.

They are the same saw but that the 562 has the bigger bar pad and runs 3/8 chain, the latest 560 now also has the high top cover, and the filter from the mk11 550, there is no difference in power, same firmware, cylinder etc, the crank is only different due to small additional length on the drive side, same big end bearing, main bearings and con rod, bigger oil pump, max 20" bar no matter what anybody says, upgrade kits for the high top cover, filter elbow and filter are now available.

A good point was made about chain sharpening and vibration, also bar and sprocket condition greatly effects vibration, we may remember the low vib chain from Husqvarna where only part of the tie straps were touching the bar. As for the XPT, a saw well ahead of its time engineering terms, unfortunately the balance was different to the Stihl so many people did not give it a far chance.

Your the only bugger I have made smile today Steve, everybody seems to think warranty covers abuse, miss use and lack of service, someone has to face them and say no.

Is it easier to strip because after a few hours most of it has fallen apart anyway ? have seen a few, mufflers either loose or cracked up, carburation is very strange, chain brake covers and bases melted, i know it is not the quickest to strip but i really think that is because it is so well built

Good to hear the piston seems to be ok, not to throw a spanner in the works but there are special tools to fit the seals, they are not as easy as the old saws, the drive side seal fits into the bearing itself so you need a sleeve to stop it catching on the inner part of the bearing, the flywheel side also sits on the bearing inner with outside in the crankcase so again easy to catch it and hook the spring out.

Fair comment sir.

Ouch! I forgot about that, but danggling a saw by the starter rope? what if there is excess oil in the cylinder? what if the ring is not trapped? It can make you just rule out a seizure and start wasting time messing with carbs etc, if there is any doubt lift the cylinder, at least you will know for sure.

Heaven help us, you may as well kick it down the road and see if it bounces.

I am always wary when a saw is running fine one day but will not start the next, It usually means it has suffered a partial seizure, this will also account for why it's not pulling fuel through, you really need to do the easy stuff before wasting time, a quick compression test, or at least pull the muffler off and check the exhaust face of the piston, if you have already done this then the next step is a pressure/vac test

Emissions are driving everything in this industry now days, and the push to go fully battery is coming at a pace, time we hung up our tools and accept the two stoke is a dying breed. But still looking forward to the 592

Sorry Stubby there is no solenoid as such, the auto tune unit on the side of the carb is not available as a spare , so it would be a new carb, unfortunately new carbs come with no firmware on them, so it would have to go to somebody with access to CST ( common service tool ) as for the mods on the very early 560, this was to take the breather hose away from the air folter elbow, the problem was fuel gas being sent into the elbow causing issues, the fuel hose was also shortened to stop kinking under the carb floor, the fuel hose has been altered again to take it further away from heat transfer from the cylinder, slots in the top covers were added to aid cooling, there have been numerous changes to the main bearing cage material, cages breaking up has been on going, you only know its gone as you get a strange vibration and some poor running, it then rips the crank seal and they no longer run, maybe the problem, there has also been issues with the air filters allowing dirt through which has not helped the cage situation, black frame filter 80 micron, yellow frame filter 44 micron and orange frame 25 micron, the latest 560 now has a higher top cover and the filter and elbow from the 550 mark 11, it would be very unusual for the auto tune unit to loose its firmware, the ring peg in the piston has been moved a few times doe to heat allowing it to come out and cause a seizure, the later crankcase now has the same main bearing on the flywheel side as the drive side and a cover washer to protect from dust, also yey another cage material from SKF. THERES NO STOPPING ME ONCE I START SORRY.

Its seized for sure.

Had plenty of K760 machines filled with diesel amongs other things, drained it out filled with fresh fuel used the purge bulb 10 to 15 times full choke and away they go, the smoke is unbelievable until it clears, never seems to do any harm to them.

Lets hope those here with less knowledge have learnt a valuable safety lesson.

Absolutely not, it sounds like a recipe for disaster, concentrate on finding where the leak is first, then adress sorting out.

Drain the oil tank and refill with fuel, if there is a leak it will start pretty quick and you should see where its coming from.

Can i see a picture of the broken end, for some unknown reason there were some bands with a slot where it wraps around the knee link, i thought this was taken away to increase the strength of the band Whacking the brake on! no.

Just a note, I was always told to make sure the switch was in the off position if cranking the engine with the plug not connected, or earthed as this can damage the ignition unit.