adw
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Everything posted by adw
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Alkylate fuel yes, but we always ran these things at 25-1, and still use 25-1 on the K1260 and K1270.
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On the positive side you can now grease the sprocket bearing without removing the side cover.
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I assume it’s a mark 1, I see these things go on the bay anywhere between £100 and £200, possibly a cylinder clean up and new piston and it could be back on the road.
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Oh dear, it almost looks like it’s been machined out, can’t remember if you can actually buy just the cover so may be a complete brake, and clutch.
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Unfortunately it will require a replacement carb, choke pull and grommet, easy to do but the cost may now make it to expensive.
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If he cleans it it probably fall to bits it was only an oiled foam filter on a plastic frame.
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Not seen one of these for a while, this is the original 3120 before they de tuned it, the primer is pretty basic, assuming there is fuel in the carb it pulls from there into the bulb, then when you press the build it soaks the wick in the back of the filter housing, it then runs through the carb to create a rich mixture, unlike a normal saw once it fired you pressed the primer again until she sparked up, so has the wick gone solid and no longer porous, has the bulb cracked or split, are the hoses in good order, is the fuel filter in the tank blocked, pull the off the pressure side of the bulb an press the bulb, does fuel flow. We converted most of them to a manual choke, worked far better.
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Raise the metering lever a touch, not too high as this will cause it flood, it can sort out these issues.
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All as Spud said so little more to add, and as Stubby said just not worth the expense to do it.
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The bar adjuster is designed to tension the guide bar and chain, not to stop the bar moving, that is the job of the clamping nut, this is always the problem with tooless side covers, they never clamp tight enough, and probably halve the reason that plate has worn away.
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Available in three sizes.
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The Intenz bar has its own built in adjuster, it was sold as the bar that can fit any saw, just Google it, it was never very popular but did have its uses.
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You could always fit an Oregon Intenz bar.
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I was always taught tails to the bottom was good working practice.
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Good point, i also saw some like that.
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On a positive much safer and less chance of them coming out, on a negative more difficult to refit.
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There was a change of ignition coil between the later 136 before it changed to the 137, so I think this could be an ignition coil issue.
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As much as it pains me to say this, but I use the Stihl service tools to refit the tailless circlips on 550/560 etc, vert easy and works every time.
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Single spring clutch, same as the one used on many of the entry level saws. spring 530094188 Clutch removal tool 530031112 Do not try to tap the clutch legs to remove the clutch, they are a sintered material and will snap off, you need to use the tool with a 19mm spanner to jar the clutch off clockwise.
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For the sake of a clutch spring, or clutch bearing its well worth spending a bit on.
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I have a few of these left over from my chainsaw training days.
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Not sure why they do not make it, it’s Oregon chain, on another note there are no reels available or pre set/ plain tie straps, loops only.
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The auto tune unit is sealed so no issues there, as it has now fired up again, and you have used it with no issues it should be fine now, maybe a spray with some wd40 starter and drive side won’t hurt.
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I feel your pain.
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Bloody hell Stubby you do not have an 80cc saw, what happened there, a nice 480, or 281 or even a 585, I am sure your other half can clamber over one more saw to get into the shed, I shouldn’t really comment as I have a 346, two 357s, a 254fg, a L65, a F70, a ms90 and I don’t even cut wood anymore.
