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Yes I would start with clutch springs, with the clutch off, if you open the shoes with your hands the springs are shot, other than that if the drum bearing is badly worn the brake band will pull the drum to one side allowing it to rub on the clutch causing it to stop.

I was told not so I guess that is it.

With the greatest of respect there should be no need to keep adjusting carb screws, having to adjust the mixture is very often masking engine issues, auto tune is very reliable, it will keep the saw running at peak performance without the need to fiddle with adjuster screws, one of the main reasons I see is users ordering new auto tune carbs from dealers then find they do not run as they only have boot firmware on them, then they need to be connected to the service program.

Went through something like this a few years ago with a hedge trimmer that you could not tighten the blades ( shoulder bolts through the blades) the blades then tear the the non woody spindly parts of the hedge rather than clean cut it.

The Husqvarna electric saws were always built in Norway, I am pretty sure they are not Makita machines badged engendered, however I will find out for sure.

You may struggle to get genuine fuel/oil caps for the 40, the early saw had smaller caps than the later machine and are definitely no longer available , the bigger caps may also be unavailable.

Glad he worked it out, I knew it would fit.

That is the blanking plate for the inlet, I have used it many times, how on earth are you trying to fit it???

You are quite correct, we had to stop using an electric saw on the test leg, due to the addition inertia of the heavy armature it could cut through the safety material.

The answer is in the name, inertia, in early saws we had no brake, this moved on to a brake that did work by the hand guard hitting the back of the wrist if a kick back occurred, unfortunately in the felling position there is no way for the wrist to come in contact with the hand guard, so next stage was an automatic brake ( Swed o matic ) as Husqvarna called it, here the engine unit would move on the anti vib mounts and an adjustable button on the brake, or on the handle would actuate the brake, unfortunately this was dependent on correct adjustment, and anti vib mount condition, so the inertia brake was born, weights are set in the hand guard, now due to the veracity of the kick back the guard tries to stay still as the saw body moves back thus bringing the brake on, Husqvarna now have what we call a knee link inertia brake, probably one of the most reliable brake there is, there is also the trio brake, this is a third way to bring the brake on, fitted to the rear handle this combats what is known as a slow kick back where the chain can run up the limb with insufficient inertia to bring the brake on. So in my humble opinion the test in the video is absolutely correct, and should work with both petrol and electric/ battery machines. End of todays lesson and apologies if insult any bodies intelligence.

I guess the Stiga is similar to the Husqvarna Rider which I am more familiar with, when you engage the pto you hear the cluck of the electromagnetic clutch engaging yes? is the bottom pulley now spinning? if yes then it has to be a belt tension issue, either with the belt from the pto pulley, or the belt on the top of the deck, the one on the deck will have a spring loaded tensioner, this may have become disconnected and no longer tensioning the belt.

I always strip down, take pictures and send along with a cost to repair, this customer is an idiot he probably knows full well how much a dealer would charge him to do what you have done, charge him the cost of the parts and tell him to f k off and never darken your doorstep again, he may feel the guilt and pay the original price.

Yes it could be the fuel hose has aged and become loose in the tank ( they are only an interference fit ) however the fuel tank breather is also along side of the hose, and if it’s a later saw with fuel purge there will be a fuel return hose as well on this side.

The pictures show a typical lubrication breakdown for all the reasons that have been given, piston scuffed between the exhaust port and the transpher port opposite side to the flywheel, this is the hotest part of the cylinder.

Warranty is 12 months from date of sale, however warranty is a fault in materials or manufacture, I would say the melting was due to a bad connection between the cigarette lighter and the adapter causing an arc and heat build up.

Just one additional point, the early 550/560 had the black oil pump, the gear was driven by some spikes in the back of the sprocket, the later white pump had a gear driven by the splines of the sprocket, so have we got/ had a mix and match of sprockets, pumps and gears?

We are showing our age now with points and condensers, I believe there was something called a mighty atom which you took the wire from the points and connected it to this small tablet and away they went like magic.

I didn't think so, maybe its not the coil at fault, just a clean of the points and she could fire up.

I just cannot believe that coil is going to fit and work, the Husky 32 was indeed a Solo machine, we sold that back in the late 70s, I can’t even remember if it had points ignition ( could be wrong ) good luck anyway

Alkylate fuel yes, but we always ran these things at 25-1, and still use 25-1 on the K1260 and K1270.

On the positive side you can now grease the sprocket bearing without removing the side cover.

I assume it’s a mark 1, I see these things go on the bay anywhere between £100 and £200, possibly a cylinder clean up and new piston and it could be back on the road.

Oh dear, it almost looks like it’s been machined out, can’t remember if you can actually buy just the cover so may be a complete brake, and clutch.

Unfortunately it will require a replacement carb, choke pull and grommet, easy to do but the cost may now make it to expensive.

If he cleans it it probably fall to bits it was only an oiled foam filter on a plastic frame.