adw
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Everything posted by adw
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I guess the Stiga is similar to the Husqvarna Rider which I am more familiar with, when you engage the pto you hear the cluck of the electromagnetic clutch engaging yes? is the bottom pulley now spinning? if yes then it has to be a belt tension issue, either with the belt from the pto pulley, or the belt on the top of the deck, the one on the deck will have a spring loaded tensioner, this may have become disconnected and no longer tensioning the belt.
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I always strip down, take pictures and send along with a cost to repair, this customer is an idiot he probably knows full well how much a dealer would charge him to do what you have done, charge him the cost of the parts and tell him to f k off and never darken your doorstep again, he may feel the guilt and pay the original price.
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Yes it could be the fuel hose has aged and become loose in the tank ( they are only an interference fit ) however the fuel tank breather is also along side of the hose, and if it’s a later saw with fuel purge there will be a fuel return hose as well on this side.
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The pictures show a typical lubrication breakdown for all the reasons that have been given, piston scuffed between the exhaust port and the transpher port opposite side to the flywheel, this is the hotest part of the cylinder.
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Warranty is 12 months from date of sale, however warranty is a fault in materials or manufacture, I would say the melting was due to a bad connection between the cigarette lighter and the adapter causing an arc and heat build up.
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Just one additional point, the early 550/560 had the black oil pump, the gear was driven by some spikes in the back of the sprocket, the later white pump had a gear driven by the splines of the sprocket, so have we got/ had a mix and match of sprockets, pumps and gears?
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We are showing our age now with points and condensers, I believe there was something called a mighty atom which you took the wire from the points and connected it to this small tablet and away they went like magic.
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I didn't think so, maybe its not the coil at fault, just a clean of the points and she could fire up.
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I just cannot believe that coil is going to fit and work, the Husky 32 was indeed a Solo machine, we sold that back in the late 70s, I can’t even remember if it had points ignition ( could be wrong ) good luck anyway
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Alkylate fuel yes, but we always ran these things at 25-1, and still use 25-1 on the K1260 and K1270.
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On the positive side you can now grease the sprocket bearing without removing the side cover.
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I assume it’s a mark 1, I see these things go on the bay anywhere between £100 and £200, possibly a cylinder clean up and new piston and it could be back on the road.
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Oh dear, it almost looks like it’s been machined out, can’t remember if you can actually buy just the cover so may be a complete brake, and clutch.
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Unfortunately it will require a replacement carb, choke pull and grommet, easy to do but the cost may now make it to expensive.
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If he cleans it it probably fall to bits it was only an oiled foam filter on a plastic frame.
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Not seen one of these for a while, this is the original 3120 before they de tuned it, the primer is pretty basic, assuming there is fuel in the carb it pulls from there into the bulb, then when you press the build it soaks the wick in the back of the filter housing, it then runs through the carb to create a rich mixture, unlike a normal saw once it fired you pressed the primer again until she sparked up, so has the wick gone solid and no longer porous, has the bulb cracked or split, are the hoses in good order, is the fuel filter in the tank blocked, pull the off the pressure side of the bulb an press the bulb, does fuel flow. We converted most of them to a manual choke, worked far better.
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Raise the metering lever a touch, not too high as this will cause it flood, it can sort out these issues.
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All as Spud said so little more to add, and as Stubby said just not worth the expense to do it.
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The bar adjuster is designed to tension the guide bar and chain, not to stop the bar moving, that is the job of the clamping nut, this is always the problem with tooless side covers, they never clamp tight enough, and probably halve the reason that plate has worn away.
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Available in three sizes.
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The Intenz bar has its own built in adjuster, it was sold as the bar that can fit any saw, just Google it, it was never very popular but did have its uses.
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You could always fit an Oregon Intenz bar.
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I was always taught tails to the bottom was good working practice.
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Good point, i also saw some like that.
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On a positive much safer and less chance of them coming out, on a negative more difficult to refit.
