adw
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Everything posted by adw
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The 550 mk11 is a completely different beast to the mark l, sorry too many changes to list them all , but better cooling, more power, the 560/562 is on a bigger platform so a lot different to the 550.
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Saw looks quite tidy, pulling it apart does not take long, it’s what you find once done, if the cylinder cleans up ok then a piston, however if it wants main bearings as well it will start to get very expensive. piston £80 Bearing £33 Bearing £6 Seal £10.50 Gasket set £14.50 To give you some idea, all plus vat plus fitting.
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I agree it doesn’t look to good.
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Keep us posted please.
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I agree with Spud, it sounds much like it has seized the ring in, so muffler off and check the condition of the piston through the open exhaust port, it could also have an issue further down, possible main bearing cage broken up which caused the piston seizure, my gut feeling is this machine will need stripping fully down.
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Behave, play nice.
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I have seen things like this before, it may be worth removing the bar adjuster pawl, then take a flat file across the pad area of the side cover to remove any high spots on the corners of the pad.
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The 285cd will have the same fine thread as the 1100/2100/2101, I may well have one somewhere, can’t remember if the 395 has the same crank extension.
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12,500 is where it should be, this is an entry level machine which was known as the 236, and 235 before that, straight out of the Poulan factory in the US, as for modding the muffler you will get little to no improvement in power or running.
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The 550xp would have/should have been supplied with a 1.5/058 .325 bar.
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The first thing to remember is if there is any loss off compression the first thing you lose is the idle, so ring or piston wear, yes you can reset the auto tune with the correct lead and the CST box and software, Orange frame air filters are a nightmare for blocking too easily so split and clean thoroughly, the carb itself is pretty standard so usual clean and diaphragms if required, the auto tune unit again is very reliable, but would have to be plugged in to check, this would also give you fuel settings which can help to diagnose so issues by how rich or lean it is running. A pressure/ vac test is also a good idea.
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Typical Stihl response, I think of all the battery equipment the pole hedge trimmer’s give the most issues, the gearboxes are not professional quality , I understand weight is an issue so lighter components are used but they need to be more reliable.
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I have never seen a main jet nozzle that deep before.
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If you have done a Stihl with vertical split crankcase then you can do a Husqvarna, not much more to it, just follow my first post, there are some proper idiots on YouTube so do not be put off by them, if you get stuck just shout out.
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Does it purge normally when reconnected to the bulb? I am sure that is the check valve for the purge so should not be able to suck and blow through it.
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If I am not mistaken that is the check valve for the purge, have you removed a Welsh plug from the from over the high jet nozzle ?
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I would agree.
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I assume this is a mark 1. ?
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Seal fitting tools 17/21
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Very few special tools are required, once the cases are split ( without the case splitter, use a small blow torch to heat the cases to expand them away from the bearing ) the drive side bearing comes complete with its seal inserted, the flywheel side bearing has a separate seal, this bearing will require a seal sleeve to take it over the bearings inner race. re heat the cases to fit the beatings, just be careful to insert the bearings the right way round, once fitted press the crank into one side of the cases, fit the gasket and press the other side on, once the case bloats are tight tap the ends of the crank with a copper hammer to remove any tension, now fit the flywheel side crank seal using a seal sleeve, don at a fraction of the short block price.
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Hate to keep on about the orange frame air filter, it is 25 micron and even though it looks clean they do block very easily, when they become part blocked auto tune starts to lean off to compensate, this then causes it to run much hotter, as Spud said when they are plugged into cst you can see the fuel settings which gives a fair idea of what is going on.
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There is no non return valve as such in there, just a sintered vion block, once this becomes saturated in fuel/ oil it becomes a breather, a pipe is then connected to it and fed up through the carb floor and onto a small nipple next to the carb, if you force an excess pressure into the tank they will leak .
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And some fell on stoney ground!
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Just when you thought it couldn’t get any worse, the Royal variety performance, some cretin in a hi vis, and a bald headed bloke trying to be funny, time for bed.
