adw
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Everything posted by adw
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Why is the a picture of a Husqvarna K970 on their labels , Husqvarna sell their own alkylate fuel, so why would they promote Aspen?
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Machine running to rich, or far to much oil in the fuel, or poor quality two stroke oil in the fuel, an air would have made it run lean, how much and who’s two stroke oil are you using? only ever seen it once but if the crankcase gasket is leaking then chain oil can enter the crankcase.
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Stale fuel can cause all sorts of issues, however in my humble opinion inadequate maintenance is a big cause of premature failures, poor chain sharpening, blocked fuel or air filters, allowing the starter cover grills to block ( this is basically a stationary engine, so all cooling air for the cylinder comes via the cover).
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He won’t make it to 90 breathing that lot in.
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Husqvarna XP oil mixed at 50.1, depends on how much you want to spend whether you go for mineral or bio chain oil.
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Oh my god, you can actually see the cutters going blue, yet another chain ruined!
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Husqvarna pole saw 525PT5S - Weird back to front bar mount
adw replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
This is quite normal, the oil is sent through the unused bar adjuster hole and into the side cover, if you look in the side cover there is a rubber Chanel which then feeds the oil into the oil hole, I hear this all the time but when you look at it it’s quite simple. -
I would like to say it never happens, however I have seen more than I should, when they go it tears the crank seal which obviously effects the running, a pressure test will quickly tell you the seal is leaking, most common seal to leak is the flywheel side, once the seal is removed you will see if the cage has gone, if not the just replace the seal, they are not easy to fit as you need to get them over the inner race of the bearing without knocking the spring out of the seal, on the slightly plus side the cylinder and piston usually come away with no damage, another tell tail is if there is signs of melted plastic in the spark arrestor.
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Not to sure you will find a suitable bearing, also bear in mind the crank seals are pressed into the bearings, there is now yet another new material from another supplier for the bearing, there is no plan to to fit a steel cage bearing, the new supplier is also supplying the bearings for the 592xp with no issues.
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The drive side seal is in the pump housing, so yes you need the seal sleeve tool, or a suitable way to smooth the way over the crank step.
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What is this obsession with replacing carbs, it has to be the top spare part claimed for under warranty, this i also heard from Honda during some training, black smoke from the engine is running rich, so air filter as suggested, carb flooding.
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Sorry I’m no climber, however all the mk1 and mk2 machines I see are on 10 and 12” bardo’s, do not see many on 14”.
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I am not sure it would run with jus one ring Steve, the ring end gap was huge, the ring peg did take up some of the gap, you didn’t need a ring compressor, the cylinder just fell on, they used a chrome cylinder because they said there was some sort of reaction between the Steele ring and a nikasil liner. The last of the 162 and the early 266 also had twin Steele rings however it was never popular and didn’t last very long. I serviced over 100 green mod 181 and 281 machines, every one had been run with the brake on, you could tie a knot in the clutch spring and shoes and drums were blue, also chain adjuster pawls pushed through the crankcase due to not aligning the bar before tightening the nuts, bloody squad’s
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Just looked at the piston again that is the original piston that had twin Steele rings and a chrome bore not nikasil, very strange set up and didn’t last to long before a single cast ring piston.
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All seems to have been said, I also have cleaned up and re used cylinders, my go to tool is the flex hone and two stroke oil, lost count of the amount I have reclaimed, I think a cleaned up cylinder is still better than most after market cylinders.
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The new e10 fuel should not give symptoms like this, stating the obvious it is a fuelling issue, so as said possibly dirt in the carb, always start with the easy things first, replace the fuel filter in the tank, check for any leakage around the fuel hoses due to a cracked hose, fuel tank breather blocked, trying slackening the fuel filler cap when it starts to die, if it picks up again replace the breather, onto the impulse hose, this will require removal of the carb, with the carb off check the metering diaphragm has not gone stiff and starving the carb, possible air leak but pretty unlikely.
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Be careful following some of the YouTube videos, they can be very miss leading.
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If the saw is flooding it maybe as follows, this is quite difficult to explain but will have a go, the carb is a compensator carb so has no vent hole in the metering cover, behind the air filter is two white elbows with a short black link pipe, the elbow on the left feeds directly onto the compensator channel in the carb, so diss connect the black pipe from the left white elbow, slacken the two carb screws so as the filter plate is lose, now pressure test the elbow, there should be zero restriction, it is possible the white elbow has not been drilled right through, this then effects the flip side of the metering diaphragm and will cause the carb to flood.
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There is a 3/8 rim available for the original small spline drum.
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No it comes with the cap, there are plenty kicking around if he wants one.
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And we even do a tool to make the hole, and put it in the right place.
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How long are you leaving the saw idling for?
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The cylinder will not wear as such, if you have shaded areas around the inlet or exhaust port then the nikasil lining has worn through, it sounds more like the piston ring has dust worn.
