adw
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Everything posted by adw
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Somebody once showed me a great fix for repairing splits and holes, coat the hole/crack with super glue, then sprinkle baking powder into the glue, when dry( doesn’t take long) rub it down and reapply, carry on until it’s filled, it works really well.
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The mark 11 has the same carb, so it’s news to me that the screws have changed, there is no other Husqvarna service tool that I know of for splined screws??
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Possibly the brake micro switch, a right bitch to get too as well, failing that the magnet has come loose on the trigger, failing that loose wires or connectors, failing that the switch box is faulty, and finally that the control board, sorry it’s difficult to give an exact diagnosis,
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You are probably right, but I would expect it to at least fire, even the crappy Husqvarna copies did run. however I accept you may have seen more of these and know better.
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The manufacturer name should be around the cylinder base
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Probably should be a Mahl cylinder if genuine, it woul help to know the history of this machine, and £40 crazy.
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Normal right hand thread, I guess the key is part of the flywheel casting like most modern machines, so if sheared new flywheel.
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It certainly looks like new, have you actually removed the flywheel to check the key as Stubby suggested? It also sounds like it’s completely flooded if fuel mist is coming out of the deco valve, how much fuel did you tip into it? Too much and it will just soak the plug before it gets chance to fire.
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Deco valves are there to protect the starter and starter components as well as the operators arms, wrists and fingers, that said up to 60cc I would remove them and fit blanks, leaking valves reduces power, using them for hot starts can make effect starting. An oem valve is rated to the compression of the engine, so fitting any old valve will ever pop to soon, or not at all.
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You can leave them in as long as you like, it will make no difference, that is not the way to clean the carb, other than the outside.
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You are quite correct.
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What the hell have you purchased, I would send it back to where it came from, I just cannot think what they sent to you, the crank was the same for both 136 and 141, and even the 137 and 142, so it is just completely wrong, as a matter of interest where did it come from?
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Sounds like green arm syndrome coming up.
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Not into Stihl machines, however where is the impulse taken from ? and has it come adrift or blocked? just a thought.
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Sorry I miss understood, the flashing green usually means either the battery is too hot, or too cold, or the charger is too cold.
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If the charger is not very cold, and the red triangle is flashing then I am afraid it’s done.
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I strongly advise you do not try to replace this fuse, it has blown for a reason, if you do try use a very low amp fuse, I tried and the damn thing went bang big time.
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Behave.
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Good point, that cylinder is going to need a good clean up before assembling a new piston into it, that’s if it cleans up at all, flex hone is my go to tool.
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I don’t understand why you would buy another piston and put it in that cylinder only to probably destroy it? Why not spend the money on a cylinder piston kit, you say it’s only light use so an after market kit will probably be fine, plus every time you split the cylinder from the base you distort the seals on the bearings.
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42mm, I have a shop manual which may help you if you would like a copy.
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It dont look too good sir.
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44 nice little saw, semi pro version of the 444, so open transpher port cylinder, as said your compression is very low, cant imagine a genuine cylinder is still available so try to clean up the cylinder and find amn after market piston, do you have any idea why it seized? if not you may be looking at more issues.
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I know, but they are a real bitch to fit and these tools are so good, maybe Husqvarna could copy them, have you eve tried them?
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I have to confess i use the Stihl circlip fitting tools to fit tailless clips, they work really well.
