adw
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Everything posted by adw
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Maybe a slip and should be 550xp? if so mark 1 or mark 11 ? mark 11 does not have a deco valve.
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520XP??
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Where is your dealership sir, maybe I know it or even you.
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Not really a helpful comment, it’s an hours work to make the saw good again, if you are just going to right off every battery product because it takes you to long, or you don’t want to, it’s a sad reflection on your business, battery products are here to stay.
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I did wonder as to wheather it was right that it had an adjustable pump, but as said no fan of Stihl.
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split the saw, remove the control board, remove the oil tank and wiring, from the other side strip the chain brake clutch and drum, remove the motor, remove all the screws and split the bar pad assembly from the handle casing, here you will find the the micro switch, lift it from its housing and fit somthing behind it to space it out, re assemble.
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This is due to the chainbrake micro switch position, i have had to pack some of them out to create a greater pressure on the switch, unfortunatley you have to strip the whole saw to acsess it, it takes a bit of time.
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Thank you for clearing that up, ime not a Stihl fan, so he can turn the pump down.
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And a tooless chain adjuster, good luck keeping the chain adjusted properly.
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The problem with useing the saw for carving is full chain speed and very little saw dust to soak up the chain oil, surley the pump is adjustable?
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The gearbox looks devoid of any grease, however the plate you are refering to is only there to stop the top rod from lifting, if you hit somthing metal in the hedge this will cause the rod to be forced up hard against the plate, and can cause it to break, i have only seen them worn from age, never broken.
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As Spud says, split the machine and check all the connections, pay special attention to the battery connection area ( dirt and debris build up ), check the motor is free and no large build up of sawdust jamming it, when you say it’s stopped working completely what is showing on the control pad, any green lights? any red triangle. I have never had to replace a motor, so what’s left is a control board, a control panel, a micro switch actuated by the chai brake some wiring and a switch, so assuming all connections are secure and clean, you can hear the micro switch click when you actuate and load the brake, I would think the control board has a fault.
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Try Aspen fuel in your business with our money back gaurantee
adw replied to Aspen@AAOIL's topic in Aspen Fuel
He wants you to ring him mate and answer you, obviously doesn’t want the rest of us to know, perhaps you can enlighten us when it’s explained. -
I am sticking to my guns and say the bearing should periodically be greased, it’s easy to do on the pro saw via the hole in the crank, I have seen many machines with worn crank journals in this area caused by dry rollers in the bearing, knock the brake on and they stop, I have not seen any full of detritus , but a pump of grease would help to push an accumulation out, so my best advise is grease the bearing.
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The 262 was akin to the 254, same crankcase but longer stroke, and different top cover and filter, it would be a Mahl cylinder so should not have bolt on transfer port covers, they did for a period have Teflon crank seals which are very hard and never sealed as well as the rubber seals, so an area to check, if the problem is pretty instant then I would not think tank breather, fuel filter yes, fuel hose yes, badly assembled gaskets and impulse passage blocked maybe, if after market cylinder check the impulse hole in the cylinder does go through to the cylinder, I have seen them not fully drilled.
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We already have fleet so you can track where certain machines are, and 97v batteries that can be programmed, so the day is fast coming when you will be able to customise the machine to the operators preference, top handle battery saws with heated handles, who knows what is next.
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Unfortunately the control unit comes with only boot software on it, so it will need to be connected to the service hub to update it so it’s not as easy as ordering one, there are other components in the saw other than the control unit that could have an issue, if you have green lights on the control panel and a solid red triangle it may well be the brake micro switch, I have had cause to pack the switch out so the brake actuates it properly, so it may well be the machine thinks the brake is on.
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Is a high level of vibration for a 'long hedge trimmer' normal?
adw replied to greenant88's topic in Landscaping
If it’s vibrating badly at idle then it is nothing to do with the gearbox or shaft as these are not moving at idle, so maybe imbalance in the centrifugal clutch? -
The only time that bearing is doing anything is when the saw is idling with no chain movement, when the chain is rotating the clutch, drum and bearing are all turning together so the bearing is doing nothing, so whatever is happing to the bearing is happening at idle, looking again at the pictures of the broken bearing it appears blue from heat, I am not aware of the bearing cage being plastic, so as I see it it’s either a faulty bearing, faulty drum both of which could be creating tight spots, damage to the crank journal where the bearing runs, or working practice.
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Insufficient greasing, leaving the saw idling for too long, when the saw is left idling the grease is soon lost, the crank journal is hot so eventually you have metal to metal with no lubrication, the bearing over heats and the cage breaks up.
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it really sounds like a blockage in the carb, its probably running too lean.
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I think before you do too much more you need to find out if it is mechanically sound, it Is somewhat worrying it ran fine for 25 minutes and then will not now re start, it is not going to suddenly have a carb issue after running fine for 25 minutes, my best advise is to lift the cylinder and assess the condition of the piston and ring, I fear the problem lies here.
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Not just a pretty face Steve, anyway where has he gone?
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Bloody spell checker. Phelon and Walbro
