adw
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Everything posted by adw
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Doesn’t sound too good, anyway I would say early 2007 ish, would need to see the set no. to confirm
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Sorry didnt see that, you are correct.
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A bit of trvia for you, it started life as the 351, it was increased slightly in capacity to take it into another emmissions bracket to get it through C.E.
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It is an early saw as it does not have a purge on it, however good solid little saw and well worth it if it runs ok, and not been molested with after market parts on it ( cylinder etc ).
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If you just snip it off just remember it will still be a live wire, so best to remove it completely.
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No it can just be removed, i do it on every G saw i see, you will need to unplug it from the jumper connection in the handle to completely remove it.
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This is the carb heater, remove the pad from between the air filter holder, remove the thermostat from the top of the carb, remove the two wires connected to the pad, now throw it all in the dustbin it is not need in the UK, you now have a wire from the generator, this connects to one of the wires from the top handle, the other wire from the top handle fits to the switch, the wire from the other side of the switch goes to the rear handle pad, then a wire from the rear pad sits under a earth screw on the side of the crankcase, so basically you sholud have continuity through the top handle, throughn the rear handle and to eart with the switch on, i call itb a switch but is a rotery plate that joins the wires to make a circuit.
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Do you have a vacuum gauge? connecting one to the pipe may well open the check valve, will ordering this part be a better option rather than some crappy Chinese knock off carb. however as has been said the saw should still start, if you get it running it may well open the check valve.
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504024601
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So the check valve in the center section of the carb is stuck ( the part with the outlet purge pipe connect ) this part seems to be available as a spare part.
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Can you just humor us, depress the purge bulb, whilst depressed blank the shorter of the two connections off with you finger, now let the purge bulb out with finger still over the short connection, does the bulb readily come out, or does it stay compressed?
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If they are anything like the Husqvarna tubes and shafts then they are sintered bronze and should be oiled and not greased,
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2100 started life as the 1100, and finished as the 2101, the 298 was the 2100 but with the 480 fuel tank, the saw was pretty bullet proof bar for a couple of issues, chain oil leaking into the fuel tank due to the o ring leaking on the bottom of the manual oiler, and the oil pipe for the manual oil behind the muffler expanding and bursting on the back of the hot muffler, makes a right mess, just some boring facts as I prep sunday dinner.
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It does actually idle quite strong then, up until it’s revved and shut down, I think that is the auto tune module itself, I would be very surprised if a carb kit is going to cure that, but keep us posted, Steve usually proves me wrong.
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2100/2101 chain catcher.
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Yes you still need a choke quite correct, I need to look at the carb for these saws, I was going from the power cutter carbs that only have half a choke flap compared with a complete flap for the non purge carb, I will try it get some pics to how this.
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With a purge carb you normally do not have a full choke flap as it is not needed because the carb is fueled ready, all reduces emissions.
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Nobody seems to be addressing why the bloody thing does not start, yes you can blank off the purge and carb connection, then pull your guts out to try and start it, the choke flap will be designed for a purge, so i hope he is pretty fit and doesn't destroy the starter in the process.
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Not so, any crack or split in any of the hoses then nothing moves anywhere, thinking about this logically if the saw was running ok before work was done on it then dare i say it is something he has done to cause an issue.
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The factory says 50-1 so that is what you should stick too, I have no idea why he thinks it’s better at 60-1?
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It wii say chain oil, the ser no, plate is missing you can see the river holes where it should be.
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I hate to be a cynic but I do not think a card kit is going to sort this, the piston face may look ok but you cannot see the sides or if the ring is worn, or stuck in with carbon, did you try the the fas idle trick that was suggested? removing 5he carb is easy enough, but a bit fiddly to re fit if you have not done one before, just make sure the spring on the stop lever sits under the choke shaft of the carb.
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You old bugger Steve right on the button
