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Your right about one thing, you do not know me, or my experience.

All adds additional weight I am afraid, when Husqvarna use aluminium screws on the new 592xp to reduce weight it gives you some idea of how weight is so important.

You obviously have contempt for mandatory safety features on the saw from your remark, so I guess that goes for all the safety features on the saw, manufacturers and trainers can only do so much, if operators choose to ignore advice there is no more we can do.

I asked that question and was told by one of my Dutch colleagues that they were but it was not going to be fuel injected, I was also told the MS 500i ran very hot so the injection system was set up rich to cool the engine, this is why they are not very good on fuel consumption, which makes you wonder what the true emissions are.

Stickers are just one item, after that comment I rest my case about lack of maintenance..

Fair play to you sir, I hope somebody takes you up on the offer, but please do remember maintenance maintenance maintenance, no point being a good operator if your saw is not in a safe condition, remember the ten mandatory items on the saw, best of luck to you sir.

Let’s just take it one step further and stop the mass merchandisers selling them, I would suggest only selling saws to somebody who had a recognised certificate, but god knows we sat down and tried that with the top handle saws but certain dealers decided to ignore this and sell them anyway, we covered the box in stickers saying trained operators only, and not to be used as a ground saw, but to no avail, the Husqvarna trio brake was way ahead of its time, and by the way is still available, it was a sae a system as you could get, however the so called professionals poo houd it, saying it gets in the way, well no it stoped you using the saw incorrectly, so when manufacturers try to make things safer all we get is winging operators saying they do not want it, when you start working on saws you see the appalling lack of Maintenon from operators, it amazes me some times that something like a chain saw you are earning a living with is treated so badly.

Sounds terminal, as Stubby said muffler off and check the exhaust face of the piston through the open port, any sign of scuffing and the cylinder needs coming off to assess the damage, is it a mark 1 or mark 11 ?

You can bet they put a Chinese carb on it, they are a dead loss.

If there is a spark there of sorts ( works of speed of rotation ) and good fuel to the plug it should at least fire, is there masses of fuel at the plug? is it just flooded? remove the plug, open the throttle fully and crank 5 or 6 times to disperse any excess fuel and try again with dry plug

If as i thought it was the earth for the auto tune unit then yes it would make a difference.

Ok, take it outside and carefully place it on a concrete surface, measure out approximately 1/4 gallon of e10 fuel, pour the fuel over the top of the machine, now lite a match and ignite the fuel, fan the flames until the whole piece of junk has burnt away, now go out and buy yourself a Husqvarna K770 oil guard machine, sorted.

RearViewMirror1.wmv

Bambi, or Junair are two good quiet units, they are aimed at dental surgeries.

The one you marked with a 2.

FRM comes ready with the mulch blade

You should try the 555FRM, it destroys everything in its path. As for running with no guard i just despair with you, sllipping clutches, overheating etc etc.

Just ha d a better look at it, it may be the earth wired for the auto tune unit, anyway it does sit under the head of the screw.

Downtown just finished, yes this is the earth return wire and should sit under the head of the rear l/h side screw, somebody must have removed the screw at some time for it to be just hanging there.

You will like this. what do you call a prostitute with a runny nose? Full.

Just about to say the same, can’t imagine why it had so little compression, is the deco valve leaking?

I have, and use a leak down tester, but only on four stroke engines, as spud says it will not really work on a two stroke.

If you need part numbers I can post them, the flywheel puller wIll double up as a flywheel holder.

If its not a heated handle saw there will be no magnets under the flywheel, the magnet will be on the side of the flywheel and you should be able to see enough of it to see if the pin is about, i assume the scarring on the nut is where the pin came out? there a burr i can see on one of the starter pawls as well, if you intend removing the flywheel there is a puller , or drift required, there is also a flywheel holding tool, i hate putting something through the spark plug hole on top of the piston, however there is a plastic tool available for this, make sure when you refit the flywheel that the key is correctly lined up with the slot in the crankshaft, if you shear the key it will be a new flywheel. Tighten nut to 23NM