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Considering the factory is still on vacation, I will believe when I see it.

No, that looks like a 266, i remember the first pre production 166 units, both blew the twin steel ring pistons to bits, love the old saws.

Husqvarna part no. 505381308

It will not be an Echo carb, so get the make and model, all of which will be on the carb, then approach a carb distributor like Rowena motors in Wales.

I would say the only way it can get into the air intake is if the fuel needle is leaking, you need to pressure test the carb, this will tell you very quickly if its leaking, otherwise you/we are just guessing.

Your not wrong Stubby.

Gasket set yes, only need to take one side of the crankcase off to replace gasket, the bearings I would assess, 2 hours labour to clean and re assemble £300 does seem excessive.

Is that really what dealers are charging?

One last point, that switch has such a high failure rate that the hire companies are now replacing them for the manual switch on brush cutters, hedge trimmers, and I have seen plenty on the T540, so it will be interesting to see how long they last.

It’s one of the ten mandatory safety items, a switch that is clearly marked and stops the engine, not stops it, and dependant on rpm and whether you hold it on, it stops the engine, I was just pointing out why these switch’s are not fitted to certain saws, anyway end of subject.

The diode is in the ignition module not the switch or wiring, once the unit senses a stop signal it will stop no matter what you do to the switch.

With the correct ignition unit with diode once the switch is actuated it stops no matter how quickly it springs back, if you rev your saw now and actuate the switch and let it spring back it will begin to stop and re start before the revs die off, with the original switch yes it cuts the spark but stays in the stop position, it does not spring back on its own, so the saw will stop. I just thought i would point this out before more people decide to start doing the wrong thing.

If you need to stop the saw in an emergency, regardless of if your ears work or not, you would expect to push it once and it stops, not just re start again , it could be on fast idle, the throttle could have jammed any scenario, just my opinion and thinking of your safety.

The issue with doing this is if there is no diode in the ignition unit you will have to hold the switch to the stop position against the spring to stop it, if you just push it and allow it to spring back the saw will just start again and not stop, not really a safe thing i fear.

It should face the inlet, clean the top of the piston and there will be an arrow, this arrow should face to the exhaust port.

Ok back to basics, plug out and we’ll earthed against the cylinder, crank the engine do we have a spark, if yes open the gap to double its original, do we still have a spark? If no new ignition module, if yes replace plug and crank engine with the choke out, remove the plug again, is it wet with fuel? if no we have a fuelling issue, this could be a carb issue, or a large air leak, if the plug is wet re check the flywheel key, if this has sheared the timing will be out and will never run. If the spark plug is excessively wet and there seems to be lots of fuel about, then the carb needle is leaking, a pressure test will show this very quickly, has the cylinder been off this saw? If not and all else fails it will need to come off, check piston condition where you would not have seen it through the exhaust port, remove the ring and fit into the cylinder , no measure the ring end gap of the compressed ring, if more than a few thousand of and inch replace the ring.

The impulse pipe goes to the top of the carb( the pump cover ) the fuel inlet to the side of the carb, the metering lever should be level with the carb floor, if it has a fork make sure it fits to the diaphragm correctly, not to doubt your ability but have you assembled the diaphragm sans gaskets in the correct orientation?

Pretty sure all HS series diaphragm kits are the same for pump and metering side, just spindles and flaps change.

If the saw has the metal clip it will be the very early saw, the machine will not have had the ring in the inlet of the boot, this was added later to stop any chance of the boot collapsing in this area, I guess if you cannot acquire one then it will probably be ok. The drive side crank seal is housed in the pump housing, there will also be an o ring to seal the pump to the crankcase, and a seal for the pump outlet, be very careful fitting the crank seal as it is easy to catch the seal on the step of the crankshaft causing the spring to pop out.

It sounds like it is not oiling, or not oiling enough, it may cut at the tip due to less loading on it, the pump is adjustable, what length of bar do you have? try doing an oil test on a piece of cardboard, aim the tip of the bar at the cardboard and run the saw at full revs for approximately a minute, how much oil do you see on the cardboard?

The last person I told to keep his trimmer cord in a water bucket thought I was some sort of yokel.

I can almost hear the ring of the cash till.

Quite correct, I was afraid to say keep cord in a wet bucket, thought I would get ripped a new ass ole.

These part no.s are correct abet winter filter, the kits are to convert to the 550 mk 11.

Christ Stubby if you have the cord any longer you will have to skip over it.