adw
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Everything posted by adw
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All part of the group.
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Ok, back ti it’s running lean, re check the items I have named earlier, also check the impulse hose is connected and no split, after that pressure/ vac test is next, if it carries on running lean I could well seize next.
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Surely it’s not oiling?
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I it generation 1 auto tune?
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It’s running lean for some reason, when you hit the throttle there is a boost of air into the intake but if there is insufficient fuel then there is a lag, or even it could stall. All the reasons to run lean are. Blocked fuel or carb screen cracked or kinked fuel hose incorrect carb settings Air leaks Worn or split diaphragms in the carb
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I may have one all be it slightly too long if you don’t manage to get one, I am sure you can shorten it.
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Unfortunately 503217425 subs to 503215525 so the screw you ordered should fit, the later 346 screw is 725533355 which is a standard m5x25, so not quite sure what has gone wrong here.
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It was a type of self tapping screw, the early crankcase was only drilled but not tapped, it was very important that you turned the screw gently backwards until it drops into the original thread, then tighten as normal, if not it will try to make another thread.
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You can test the coil all you like, but if it does not give a spark with the earth cut out wire disconnected then the unit is shot, replace with new before you waste any more time on it.
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Known in the industry as a ping **************** it! I have to say the Stihl tools for inserting the tailless clips works really well, very hard to admit.
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That’s what you get with those crappy Chinese clips, never seen it on Mahle clips
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Sorry thought you were referring to the tubes between cylinder and carb
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There should be zero dust in the inlet tubes, if this has entered the cylinder and mixed with fuel you have lapping paste,, this will wear the ring and remove the nikasil lining off the inlet side of the cylinder, this may well be why you have low compression, is so it will never run right, I would be lifting the cylinder before wasting too much time messing with the externals.
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Fuel starvation, can’t remember if you said you have changed the fuel filter in the tank.
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On going improvements, some to combat the poor quality fuel, vapour lock can happen when a hot engine has stopped and left for a short time, the heat from the cylinder dissipates into the carb and inlet manifold causing vapour rather than fuel into the engine making it difficult to re start, this is why you should use the purge to pull cooler fuel through the carb and aid restarting.
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As said there have been an amount of mods to the 560xp, removing the tank breather pipe from the filter box, the open slot in the top cover, moving the fuel hose away from the back of the cylinder etc, spark plug maybe, make sure the air vents in the starter cover , and the cylinder fins are clear as this can cause over heating, old or stale fuel, use the purge when restarting, and pull the choke out and back in to lock the part throttle.
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The tank/crankcase is cast in two parts and friction welded together, if it’s leaking by the flywheel then the casings are no longer sealed together, is it definitely chain oil and not a leak between the cylinder base and tank/ crankcase, this may explain the heat due to an air leak and running lean
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It’s unusual to see marks above the ring and not below it, looks like something has been rattling about in there, there are a few pipes to and from the carb, did you re connect them the same way they came of? just remember the bubble is a purge not a primer, so it pulls fue from the charm and dumps back to tank, if you cross the pipes you will be forcing fuel into the carb causing it to flood and also give running issues.
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Fuel in the air filter box is needle in the carb leaking, so worn needle seat ( new carb ) worn rubber tip needle, metering lever too high, incorrect assembly of diaphragm and gasket orientation.
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There was an earlier accelerator pump carb ( Walbro ) this was replaced by the Zama without accelerator pump, this made the 357 run so much better, it will be interesting to see which carb turns up, there were a fair few changes over the years to improve running, the auto deco valve was replaced my a manual valve, the inlet boot Gained a metal clip to improve sealing, why are you changing the carb anyway? there are plenty of other reasons for incorrect running.
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Very nice sir.
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Stihl introduce their new big saw engine. Engine.mp4
