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About drinksloe

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  1. Have u had a right good pinch in a few different places? See how far it goes down. The soil/sub soil type will make all the difference, if silty i would imagine posts should go tight just driving them in and not sink any more, different story with peat depending how deep the peat is as often on top of silty ground. Id be buying UC4 treated timber or similar should be a decent guarantee 20+ years. If ur worried about the posts sinking u can nail rails/timber on at 90 degrees, ideally just below ground level on each post or run rails linking the 2 oppisate posts at ground level holding both up
  2. Must admit after reading this thread the other night bought some skitter salts from the supermarket and had some the night as i got back to van. I definately felt better n drive home as on these really hot days i can be fcuked on drive home and do occasionally sop for a wee siesta. But it may just be a mental illusion, the other lad took a sachet too so will find out how he feels the morro. I might ask at chemist a wknd but might stat taking them 1 or 2 a day while sweating as much as i am, it makes sense ur losing salts etc I honestly have never drank as much water as i have done recently, or paid as much attention as i have to carry the bloody stuff all day. Fairly adds wirght to ur ruck sack with 6 or 7 litres in it. Think just shy of 10l so far today and just away to do a bit off concretteing, just seems a mental amount esp when u live in scotland. As someone said above there could be a big difference in being cooled by ice on ur skin too drinking a litre of ice cold water fairly quickly. Will have to ask more about overhydration, but if ur not pissing all day and sweating i cant see any other option but to keep drinking
  3. How much is too much thou, roughly? I drank 6l today ( 4 to 5s more normal summer drinking) while at work plus possibly another 2 or 3 on way home and with tea. And a couple of ice lollies 😀😀 I can't remember having a p#ss all day either.. Not sure if that is very healthy Really not looking forward to tomorrow 1.5k uphill walk throu crappy forest site, fully loaded with gear, water fuel etc and no shade left. I bet the forestry office staff would complain and go on strike if had to work in that heat sitting on there bums. I used to love stickng some bottles in freezer night before, but have gave up recently as gets the inside of ur bag and all Ur gear all wet. 1 off lads was saying really not a good thing anyway in this extreme heat as could shock Ur body with such a difference in temps. Is that true??
  4. No the 545 is brand new still n box unused or PDI, just sitting in the back of his store, he used to sell them. Just worried might be a touch under powered, and not really much lighter Aye my van is well kitted out for saws, with all sort s of spares and tools, usually has 6 or so saws in it most days, plus the other assorted crap i carry, smll winch, 2x bottle jacks, box of wedges etc. Even up the wood i generally carry a spare bar and chain with me most days Just new to this brush cutting carry on, done bits and bobs for others with there machines but never really paid much intreset in the models. I will fix my stihl up, i bought it at auction years ago, been an ex council or roads dept so will have done a bit by the look at it. Until mnow been fine for me, never really missed a beat, but wasnae being worked hard either I think it is a 460, althou i have to admit the number was always worn off on the starter, is there anywhere else on stihls where the serial number or model number? Aye the back pack saw looks ok, but also looks an experienced operator too, which always makes things look easier/better, bit of a 1 trick pony. With the strimeer u can still cut grass etc, as still need something at my own bit to strim with
  5. Alright folks. I generally don't get involved in best saw type threads, as everyone has a different opinion. Been offered 12ha of scrub clearance on restock sites and my old strimmer, while big enough is old and not so realiable now. And the shaft finally gave way last week. Wot are the best models out there at the moment for fairly heavy work? I have to admit I know almost bugger all about them. A mate advised a husky 555, and got the chance of a new 545 for wot should be a good price ( as been sitting in the stores for a good while forgotten about) just worried not man enough for the job. Cheers for any advice.
  6. Aye u don't often see many old oak strainers nowadays, et they are a serious age thou. An absolute nightmare to hammer steeples or nails in too thou, hard as nails
  7. Are uc4 posts not a 25- 30yr guarantee and that Scottish timber treated n Scotland. Those posts were similar to ur octoposts and guaranteed for 30+ years. But I would say guarantee worthless as chances of that fencer or sawmill still being around in 30 years is tiny. Would anyone really expect a fencer to put a new strainer in n 30yrs time when wire rusted. Plus seemingly if u touch strainer at all even rounding/chaumferring the top or cutting post it nulls the guarantee, wouldn't surprise me if spike on most chappers might void guarantee. There is still 1 local sawmill to me that has a yard full of cut timber drying under tarps before treating. The old fashioned way I could still go to fences input up 25 ur ago still standing now both stock and garden with his timber. It's treating freshly cut timber is never going to work which most sawmills will be doing Not rocket science
  8. I wouldn't say 8.50 a meter with telegraph poles is the cheapest price, but in the general range for in bye fencing. A mate had some done for 9.50m but that was top spec materials, all timber with 30 or 40 year guarantee and pair of double gates. U can't really compare that price to a ruff hill hand ball job with bad access,
  9. CA 1st aid, Stewart Richardson, covers most of Scotland and n eng, usually has 1 around Lockerbie about every week or 2. Not that far if u have missed the Hexham course
  10. Was jut thinking plain line wire migh be n easier way to go if many dips or gullies on fence line. Stock net doe not really like bending vertically, u always end up with a slack bit at either top or bottom. Even if a gentle hollow or rise takes a bit of experience knowing how tight to pull it to allow it flip up or pull down. Proper way would be2 strainer and pulling it separately but the ends wouldnae to be tied off takes time. Id probably would think a line wire fence be easier for a novice, weld up a wire spinner which doesn't nee to be anything fancy Definitely handles any rises or dips easier also hire handy below trees that are likely to either blow per or shed lambs, on Ake's a few new steeples to fix, oven knackers a net fence
  11. Ur prob fixed up now but sure I see CA 1dt aid had date booked for hxham shortly. Decent courses and good trainer
  12. Would a clipex type fence not only really save u steepling the fence to the posts? U still need to put strainers in to hold and u could strain a normal net with gripples ifu wanted. Never used clippex but do u not need the posts to be nice and plumb to clip the net on? Really the strainers and possibly the stays also are the key no matter wot style of fence u put up. Dunno if an old fahioned line wire fence tensioned with rads/butterflies would be any easier for an amateur? Some big hill fences still prefer plain wire to net, and use 4 or 5mm mild as last longer in the harsh weather. Bloody pain to work with thou
  13. 1of the other cutters somehow dropped a tree right throu the only 4m section where the underground fibre optic was raised over a bridge. I wasnae on that site that day, there was a bit of moaning and p**s taking but I never heard too much about it being really expensive to fix althou the boy from cottage was moaning as had no porn for 4 days.
  14. Is that forwarder rear wheels just cage driven? Can u put band tracks on it ok with the cages?
  15. I'm imagining the price is for hand ball? I often get a bell from the local company when he has a horrible ugly hill fence to do. Last 1 was 6k meter, might have got the tracked chappers to 500m or so the rest all hand dug and packed strainers ( my job, only 1 daft enough to do it without mumping) and all stabs melled in. We were lucky he hired a tracked Argo as well as his own Argo and Haag Lund we managed to get most of the materials fairly close to fence line. Not every fencing outfit has the experience or tackle to handle big rough hill jobs. Any 1 should be able to put up a half decent fence on softflat ground. No idea wot he charges but he gets a few jobs like that, some are a lot worse. 1 long deer fence he built a sledge and had to lower all materials down from the top of the hill ( hundreds of meters to fence line) and that section was almost 1km. Glad I wasnae there for that. Never seen job so not going to comment on price, but big difference doing a flat field laying materials straight out of the iffor trailer to wot this may be all materials loaded on quad and trailer, so multiple runs every day just to keep u in materials for that day, if a long run to pick up could almost be a man's full time job for a few days. If fencing is like up here even rubbish fencers are busy, so mibbee picking and choosing there jobs.. But access and ground conditions would have to be very bad to take 2 fencers 2 weeks for 400m


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