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drinksloe

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  1. Aye most of it is common sense really. I'm sure u won't have a problem. Althou I will say I mainly work in commercial softwoods which has its own challenges and dangers. But over the last 2 or so years being doing a lot more quite large hardwoods ( done lads of medium sized 4ft butts but smallish crowns) and while the general principles are the same ( tension, compression, gravity, any slope factors) u really have to think a bit more how the tree will move if u cut a branch far more so than with softwoods. Dunno how many providers in UK do ground tickets 1 after the other? I know plenty do intensive basic saw and climbing, 3 or 4 weeks later uhave all the tickets u need. Someone like H&W training from Dumfries would be well worth a shout. Really know there stuff ground saw wise and run quite a few courses,, trainer is an ex forestry cutter from way back.
  2. In the past u done Ur basic small trees and cross cut and they expected u to wait 2 years to do the more advanced courses. Which was a good thing as u gained some experience before jumping on to big timber. Now there is no time limit but u would have to do Ur basic trees 1st, Climbing tickets are completely separate from Ur ground tickets if u don't want to climb Windblow might be a worthwhile course for u also, windblow despite looking easy can be the most dangerous work u do. For milling work I imagineu would be dealing with large hardwoods a lot,just be careful breaking them down. Can be dodgy/hardwork without mechanical help or winches
  3. I was in Clarks quite a while back and I'm sure they said they're was a new improved version coming out. Must admit I've never asked about them since, been a wee while since I"be been in. Must admit I really like the wedges they sell, take a hell off an abuse, althou don't stack well
  4. On shed roofs the 'trusses'/steel are usually 5m centres, but would depend on wot size of purlins u decide on. It also might depend wot size of purlins u can actually buy, i have heard in short supply/high demand, U would be easier using hangers and screwing the purlins in too too keep hieght down. I take it u dont have much snow? Looks quite a shallow roof pitch from the photos, but obviously be fine in the past since stone work is at a similar angle ( unless u've raised the wall heads)
  5. There is a massive difference between paying peanuts and folk having to wear a mask!!! £350 a day is definately NOT peanuts. I would actually be embarrassed to ask for 600 a day just for my time, that is simply greed in my book. Thats why prices are going throu the roof so dramatically cos folk are just takin the mick with prices. £600 profit for a man if not mmany/tools overheads involved is too much, i hope when the bubble bursts customers remember the rip off merchants and keep using the good local lads that have kept prices the same throughout. Not much chance of that thou.
  6. No there no stone or builders rubble in banking just the sub soil at the minute, hopefully get it top soiled next few days. So u don't reckon its worth it? Just worried at this time of year up here wont really get a 2nd chance if any areas are missed or dont take, and dont really wat a 45 degree batter 2m from back of house with bare soil over winter
  7. I mind doing a pipeline fence down that sort of area years/decades ago and it had loads of post and rail in horsey areas, boss ended up going with un pointed posts and they seemed to twist less, think they battered stone out the way if they could rather than twist. That was using sumas so plenty of grunt to batter in flat bottom posts. But like u say once they get a twist on ur never going to turn them straight by hand. I'm sure the new suma's have a ram to turn posts, how many it turns and how many it snaps would i have no idea, mibbe help keeping them straight in the 1st place which is half the battle. Must admit in the past i always liked cundy posts and thought they had a slightly harder skin than the same sized machine rounded, but the sawmill we always used was a proper old fashioned mill where timber was cut and stored to dry under tarps for treating. He stopped doing cundys as couldnt do them cheap enough the way he was doing them, his square sawn timber is still 1st class thou. Nowadays the cundys are bloody massive seen smaller turning posts can hardly mel them nowadays. As for the OP i meant to say i wouldnt bother with ur auger unless for strainers. Lot of work packing posts to get them tight, just not worth it for intermediate posts Also a tirfor for pulling wires would be a pain, if u always have other fencing jobs to do buy a set of wire pullers (either drivall or hayes are the best in my opinion) and if ur using stock net u can make urself a clamp easily if u can weld, but i know 1 squad still use an ancient crappy timber clamp to pull the net, no idea why as their boss owns a fencing shop so could easy have a brand new clamp. Just steeple 2 bits of Re bar on 1 side of clamp and a single bit in the middle of the other piece and 3 or 4 bolts with handles welded on so u dont need spanners. If u make a clamp and can get access to the strainers with ur tractor many pro fencers will pull net with there tractor and clamp
  8. Anyone got any experience of hydroseeding grass for a steep banking? Im renovating an old building and have dug the banking away behind it, removed a few thousand Ts now but got it back to a 45 slope about 500m sq. Builders are just putting finally touches to it this week. Be about 10 long the slope He has mentioned hydroseeding, just to guarantee a good catch/take esp at this time of year as just getting to the end of grass seeding where i am ( SW scotland about 250ish m ) Is it worth the extra money?? Or just hand sow it?? Cheers
  9. Quite a few local contractors use square locally through choice, with a chapper it doesnt make that much difference as u can turn them urself but a pita to try and mel and hold the turning bar, usually becomes a 2 person job melling. A lot of local farmers/estates seem to ask for them too. Must admit i now prefer them for hand ball jobs as virtually imposible to get a 31/2" cundy post nowadays all far bigger almost impossible to mel in.
  10. I dont know ur area but if there is any independant chainsaw/climbing type training providers or even local college. I know a lad who does training and always on the look out for ground/trees althou no all areas are suitable for various reasons. They will be covered insurance wise for training and novices. But as mentioned esp if he ash have a touch of die back migh not abe a good tree to be climbing full stop never mind for a trainee/novice
  11. I'd say lpg eddies way would be the easiest and would save any wear on bridge. But scaffold borads would do the same as long as longer the the bridge and u doubled them up, be easier to get a hold off anyway
  12. That 3rd party monitoring folk? No have thought about it and spoke to them a few times and always meant to get a price but it's just more money every month to pay. By time u uy a tacker plus there fee, would only be worth it if that allowed u to cut solo. We had an inreach for my dad for years but stopped it when Garmin took over, just got too expensive, even when putting it throu the books. To be honest I have a PLB but don't take it out as often as I should, but how much stuff do u take with u all the time, already got 1st aid kit +tourniquet in pocket, Ur phone possible a radio too.
  13. Think I posted without finishing. Was going to say just how ruff/remote are the paths there walking? If not too severe common sense and many off the basic lone person working rules would do the job and not cost u fortunes. But it will all depend on just how likely they are to have an accident, how remote they are and chances of anyone else coming along wether it's worth spending money on satellite trackers or plbs If fairly local and not out the middle of nowhere simple things like leaving a note or texting which walk there doing time leaving and time they expect to be home and text when get home. If a bit ruffer ground or a long walk they do fairly often they could easy text in when they know they have a signal before they lose it, so if something happens in an area with no signal the time window is shorter and ud have a better idea where to start looking. Or more mibbee better still a quick phone call as in my area u never truly know if a text has got theou, not so bad now but with old phone contract they would ping theou 12 hrs or even days later Even 10 or 15 years ago PLBs were the norm in rural NZ, most outdoor types would own 1 and take it with them, or could be hired from rural petrol stations and shops for a few days or more for peanuts. I'm amazed not taken off more in this country
  14. Some good advice above which pretty much covers it. U have the 1 time holy shit PLBs which are only used in extreme emergency, as linked directly to satellites and a monitoring centre and then to emergency services Just a 1 off buying fee which last for 7yrs Or Ur more adaptable satellite tracker systems which can tie in with smartphones to send texts etc, but a monthly fee. Just watch with spot the emergency contact must be contactable for it too work, wouldn't need to be 24/7 in Ur case but if ur mrs always goes a walk at 2 and Ur often in a meeting/up a tree with saw going the call centre won't/can't phone for help they need u to do that. Also I've heard some emergency contacts have ignored the phone call as either an American number or with held and justthick it's a sales call. Things to be aware off Depends on the distance there walking but the cheap 2 ways can be hit and miss, sometimes we can hear a shoot on the far side off alley could be 6 or 8 miles away other days lucky to get a few hundred ms esp if u throw in trees and steep gully's. The licensed 2 ways are really pretty good thou and very dependable, think 75 quid for a 5 year licence. A couple off things that might work/help for free 112 will sometimes work when 999 won't in bad signal areas. Also tell them to register there phone with 999 so u can send a text in an emergency situation, as a text may get out when a phone call won't.. I used to think w3w's would be handy for situations like that if things go wrong. But on a recent +F course the instructor really slated it for rescue situations, fine for getting deliveries to urdoor but that's about it. He's ex mountain rescue and advised never to use it in a rescue situation. He advised using a grid ref app instead, 6 figures gets u within 100m which is close enough and still keeps it nice and simple. How ruff is the
  15. Have u had a right good pinch in a few different places? See how far it goes down. The soil/sub soil type will make all the difference, if silty i would imagine posts should go tight just driving them in and not sink any more, different story with peat depending how deep the peat is as often on top of silty ground. Id be buying UC4 treated timber or similar should be a decent guarantee 20+ years. If ur worried about the posts sinking u can nail rails/timber on at 90 degrees, ideally just below ground level on each post or run rails linking the 2 oppisate posts at ground level holding both up

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