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About drinksloe

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  1. Alright I was just wondering wot u all use for grease gun couplings? I'm more a saw background so never really had to grease heavier machines and sick of normal couplings either being slack or so tight u cannae get the bloody things off. Got 1 cheap lock on type nozzle which I really like but just a wee bit bulky with the lever on side. Is there many other types out there? I thought I seen 1 somewhere which was a sliding locking mechanism which looked better.
  2. Cheers spud. Just no one around locally, by time I drive down to Wilkinson's be 2+ hrs each way, so 2 days off work + desiel + hire. I sort off hope when I sell it, it shouldn't drop too much, plus this job cold take longer than I plan, always do when at ur own house. 1 rusty old one went thro euro last week within 50quid of a new price delivered o my door, and it still had buyers fees to go on top plus me picking it up.
  3. Cheers folks I think I might it steer clear of the Jsl 1 then. Never used 1 before but thought if it does wot it said in the blurb might be quite good but did look bulky. I'll just stick with a more normal 1, might be easier sold afterwards too, meaning to move digger on after I get these 2 jobs done. So if anyone is wanting 1 in the near future for a 5t machine on 45mm pins.
  4. Aye tried the small bucket, think a 9" and was just shaking the machine to bits, and snapped both teeth off it. Fairly hard but like u say it is shearing when u hit it at the right angle just takes a bit of back and forward. Been at the banking a few years now so rock is getting softer as weather gets into it. Bet really handy for the 20m u needed it for thou. I was putting off buying 1 just incase it wasn't up to the job and needed a pecker, but with this cable to dig in thought I'd give it a go can see it catching a few roots
  5. Alright. Alright just wondering on opinions on ripper teeth and the various brands. Put off buying 1 for years but going to bite the bullet, Got a found to dig throu some shaley rock ( prob only 30m but fairly hard as well as an electrical cable trench where could be a lot off tree roots. Been looking for a 2nd hand 1 for years just never see any 2nd hand Is there much difference between brands? I see the Jsl 1 has a toothed blade on back, does the blade actually work for cutting roots? Is it worth the extra money. I ake it they generally hold there value 2nd hand? Only really be needing it for 1-2 month.
  6. Just to add are u sure it is furniture grade timber? Felled a few nice shaped/looking oak a few months ago, boss of company we were subbed in to was convinced worth a fortune even thou low branches etc, be ok for hobby boys but needs to be good to sell commercially. Timber haulier burst out laughing when he seen its roadside, went for firewood. There is another lad from moffat who has a proper band saw mill, not sure if he travels far with it. Fat and thin timber company I think he is called, or something like that
  7. Was there not a lad agrimog? on here, u used to post, can't mind seeing him post for a while. Was he not a sawmiller? Wot are u wanting done with them?? If ur struggling I'm not that far away, moffat and meat all the way. Was cutting on a job at Denny and carluke in the spring so not any further than m used too.
  8. No there nowt wrong at all with wot u done. 😀😀 Using the matbro bucket as a shield was a good idea, the safer u can make it the better Must admit I'm similar to u, until this spring can't remember ever felling a lime before and it is quite "soft' timber even when living. It just was quite a good photo and I've lost count off the ammount off times I've thought "aye got plenty I'll no bother boring" and been sweating and swearing at an 'easy' tree and u see the curves of both sides as far as ur saw can reach on both sides. Makes it bloody hard work. Like I said any doubt at all I take even just the bar width or so out the centre of hinge.
  9. Bit late to party on this 1. Nice cutting billhook. Not picking fault here but just a good photo to highllght to others when u just push a smaller bar to the limit. And I would happily choose to fell that tree all day long with a 15 or 16" bar. Was just going to say if I'm ever in any doubt about bar size Vs tree butt I always bore the gub/letter box the hinge. As u can see just behind hinge there u didn't have an awful lot off over lap, just where the wee curve is. Often get the plug just behind hinge or worse smack bang in centre of tree. Nothing worse than battering and battering wedges in when uve left an accidental plug. And once ur committed to back cut u can't go back and bore. My motto is if n doubt bore the gub out!!! If not needed not a problem and only takes seconds on a borderline tree. Definately beats really battering wedges because of ur own stupidity, which I still do far too often ( althou mainly chancing luck for too small a bar) I had 2 just a few weeks ago, even after boring the gub a 30T jack really struggling to get them moving. Had 5 biggest 1s then a lot on small 1s on a real steep banking, took a chance on my 18" saw as a compromise, trees didn't look that big from 150m away across the gully. But they never do, esp if a lot of good timber on a job.
  10. If u punched the nails down could u not resand it to get floor smoother?? Even hire the proper big industrial belt sander in? I'm amazed she managed to sand the floor with he nail heads, docking up i thought they would be torture on the sanding belts/discs. I know when I done mine punched everything down 1st as the sanding belts for the big sander we hired weren't that cheap ( plus lot time driving 30mins each way to get more, and finding time as long it after work)
  11. Definately agree with u. From wot I was told u don't have a lot of control with direction with this cut anyway. I thought it really only was for felling directly inline with lean. But I do admit not that experienced with this cut. If I wanted more directional control would be back to a normal hinge either dogs tooth, T cut or modified coos bay ( I never like severing both sides of the hinge, esp any sap wood, so start my triangle further back behind hinge) back cuts Only my experience but I think if u have no sap wood on the side of the hinge if will never have enough strength to hold a tree against the weight to pull it in. So having the V cut u have effectively severed all the sap wood at front of tree. I'm sure when I was originally shown it way back when, to form the V we had 2 complete gubs meeting at the V point The few times I've really needed it, it's always looked a bit rough due to bad access to front of tree, so a wee bit of a hatchet job, definately not pretty, but always worked well and felt safe using it. Allowed me to be in far safer positions than a normal cut would
  12. Must admit if it was as big as that oak limb I'd be dog toothing it that limb would be about 20". The. V would be safer than a big gub in timber as big as that, esp sycamore. Unless u ratchet straped it, but even then u'll prob nip ur bar putting a big enough gub in. Get away with murder cuting softwoods and birch as generally don't chair that easily. Good to play about with other cuts when u had loads of room and safe even it it goes dramatically wrong.
  13. Must admit never tried it in sycamore but I only really use it in trees where for some reason not safe/bad access to front of tree esp if big enough to need to cut gub from both sides and bore gub. Normally my go to for leaning tree would be a dogs tooth or if too small a bigger gub and gun it, if u think u can. Mibbee be worth trying it in a smaller tree 1st, less forces involved if it goes wrong As long as ur felling it direction of lean, and if no targets about to damage u could give it a shot. Like u say a sycamore hinge is about as useful as a chocolate fire guard anyway. With that oak ideally I wouldn't off chose to do the v cut with such a big limb, but it was so high off the ground no way I would have any good control of saw to control hinge or strap Being honest in hindsight it reallly wasn't safe , even by my standards but it was a safer option than dogs tooth at that hieght or felling with that limb still attached and poor escape routes.. Getting a skidder in was never going to happen with that firm Have used it a few other times and worked well but just never had phone with me, Not a go to cut but handy to know. I mind doing a truly horfible edge Norway with it, right on edge off a 6ft vertical banking bent like a banana and really leaning and hairy, must of been getting near to 3ft at butt Only going 1 way but I only had my 15" bar with me as brashing and u just couldn't access the front safely to to gub and bore hinge. Again worked really well and nice slow release giving u time to GTF.
  14. Prob not a photo i should be posting, but thats why cut so ruff. Not the safest hieght to be working a biggish saw. Definitely couldn't of stuck a gub in and bored with any accuracy. But it made the felling cut safer as natural escape routes where over a wide and deep ditch. The oak had a right wide crown otherwise
  15. A long way off text book. The 2 cuts at front should off met up far tidier. And back cut should off met up with them But quite an awkward situation. Right on edge off a deep ditch and quite a big heavy oak limb with a lot off lean on it. Despite how ruff and ready worked perfectly


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