adw
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Everything posted by adw
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It looked like a hedge trimmer, those engines usually had a coil and a small square electronic pack, normally an Ida unit, held with a single screw somewhere on the machine.
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Hi guys it’s official aids can be contracted through the ears, By listening to ass holes.
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Behave.
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No mate, the later clutch is more robust, however the shoes will crack if you strike them at the wrong angle, there is even a drawing of the angle you should hold the screw driver before striking it, so I now always use the tool to be on the safe side.
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Treat yourself and order the proper spark plug tool with nipple to connect the vac, 503844002
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Available from Husqvarna part no. 531030623
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The mighty vac is a fair unit and does both pressure and vac, blanking plates will probably be available from Stihl, or make your own, you can very often use a wedge shaped rubber strip, slacken off the muffler, slide down between the muffler and cylinder, re tighten the muffler, same on the inlet, you can use the impulse tube if it is the type connected to the top of the carb to connect the mighty vac, if not make a screw in style piston stop into a connector by drilling down through 5he centre and a nipple on top.
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Must say I have seen the early clutch break, more the later version ,anyway the tool is part number 575251401 .
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I have stooped using the hammer and screw driver method on the later clutch, i now only use the service tool, there is a different tool dependent on which clutch you have. which clutch do you have??
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This should be interesting to see, just remember if you cause an imbalance on this clutch it won’t be just a new clutch you will need.
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It was a dreadful thing, it boiled the fuel in the tank, ran like a tap, it never oiled properly with its pressurised oil tank, the fan on the clutch flys off and smashes the side cover, the big end bearings are uncaged rollers held with two horse shoe brackets and a rivet, the head of the rivet breaks off and the whole lot destroys the pot and piston, the fuel filter is a bit of felt that stops nothing, the air filter was as much use as a chocolate teapot, the starter pulley wore the edges and slipped all the time, should I go on, I hated the bloody thing, got go now Coronation street is back on.
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This was a Skil shop machine and the worst bit of junk ever to have the Husqvarna badge on it, throw it in he skip.
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It looks very much like the old Husqvarna137 muffler, this was also an American produced machine.
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This product was sold long before Husqvarna toke over the consumer products, it looks much like all the American consumer machines Partner/Mccolluch etc, it is what it is.
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Funny you say that i had an Oregon chain 3/8 058 92e that had cutters that were like glass, never been sharpened before, i guess its an issue with the hardening process
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Correct.
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There you go, the pin is missing, you can see the hole where it should be.
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The tool looks like death, but I guess it does the trick, well done.
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It is shown on the tank unit, it’s not the best to see exactly where it fits, however it is a stainless pin, if look at the pump gear you will see a channel cut around its diameter, the pin sits into this so as when the shaft rotates it reciprocates. Turn the gear with your finger and you should see this.
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The noise is probably just the starter pawls clicking as they pass the starter pulley.
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Saw could do with a bloody good clean sir.
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Completely different pump on the 288xp, fully adjustable pump, if you have changed the pick up pipe and filter it rules that out, as I tried ( maybe not well enough) the oil pump shaft rotates, however it has to have a throw to pump oil, so it rotates and moves in and out, this allows it to pick up the oil on the rearward stroke and deliver on the forward stroke, the flat on the pump shaft is timed to the pick up and delivery holes in the pump body to achieve this, to increase oil flow you cannot increase the pump speed as this is controlled by the engine speed, so it is achieved by increasing the throw of the pump shaft, so either the shaft is not rotating, or you have no throw on the shaft, I.e the shaft is only rotating.
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I am fairly sure you cannot grease the bearing through the end of the crank.
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As said the cutaways are ti jarr the clutch of, do NOT use anything to lock the piston, just jarr the clutch off against the compression, there is a workshop tool available to remove the clutch if you want to invest, and yes it is the same clutch as on the 346xp, I can get you the part no. of the ppl if you wish.
