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Steven P

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  1. I'd also worry about the cutains, not you perhaps but the next owner of the house who might not realise. At first thought your quote sounds high but what are yuo being quoted for? There doesn't look like a lot of wall space so you might need something more compact which could limit the choces the nstaler has.. and of course the more secialised stove is, the more the manufacturer thinks they cancharge. I'd get a breakdown of the quote if you can to see what is in it
  2. A full days fuel in that? We'll burn that before breakfast! nce idea though and I like the bag thing
  3. I tend to stck them up on the hearth or in the coal bucket. Normaly I need to fetch more logs in in the morning so I keep my kindling uderneath the saw horse and brng that in at the same time. My problem is I have a fire gueard still to keep the boys safer, so I can't really put in a basket or similar.. however I like the log store and I might have a thnk about that (got some decent boards in the garage I can use, plane them down, stain them and varnich and that cold be OK)
  4. Not sure when I last had the storage heaters on.... I took one off the wal about 18 mbths ago (it was getting in the way). We do exist in the UK heating our houses with the stove. In the US though, houses are larger and I suspect they have more room for decent covered log stores
  5. Generally pretty safe. They are outdoor transformers, low voltage (compared to some of the really big ones), and made pretty robust. If there was any danger then the fence or wall around it would be a lot more secure - for example secure enough to stop a child climbing over to rescue a stray football (the power companies hate headlines that might produce). The cabinet next to it also contains electrical stuff and should be treated with the same respect and caution as the transformer. Obviusly though you are dealing with electrical equipment and the enclosure is the owners private land, fenced off for a reason - if you need to get in there (or I guess work over it) then you should really get in touch with them and let them know and grant access.
  6. I guess with a steel plate you can have a shorter stove (slightly) or tsller fire box though. How thick would the vermiccile sheet tend to be?
  7. No reason except my one is steel - if it was a flat sheet that would be OK, mine also has a bend in it so just going on what I know really. As far as I can tel it is there to make a longer path for the flames before they go up the chimney, and the longer path means they mix with more air and can butn all the volotile gasses more completely. So anything that will do the job should work
  8. As above, if you cannot source a manufactures one, it might owrk out as cheap to get oe made up. 5mm? Steel sheet and maybe bent in the middle plus whatever cut outs are needed. If it is a simple flat sheet an hour or so with a hack saw should get something that works. If you want a template to get something made up i would be tempted to cut it out of some card - an old Amazon box? Easy to cut and fold as required, about the right thickness and you'see if it works. Just another point... just check the wood you have besides the burner doesn't get too hot and self ignite
  9. I guess I am like many people, but not all of my wood is easy to split ash or similar with a nice round shape and small enough to fit in a tyre.. but I've seen videos and this trick works well. Bits of wood flying off what I am splitting at a speed enough to damage stuff is rare though
  10. we burn a 50-50 mix of both (logs only at the weekend when I am at home...) Heating only with solid fuel you either hve a cold house or are tied to the stove, with coal you can get an hour r nore beten fueling. Sulphuric acid - as far as I know this will form if you get sulpher from the coal and water / steam but will only become a problem if it settles on the chimney liner - in other wrds if the chimney is too cold - otherwse it goes up the chimney. The drier the wood the better of course
  11. Appoligies Stubby - that's me not wording things as well as I could. You're right of course - wod needs air from above, coal needs it from below (in simple terms without going all science on the subject). What I was meaning is that if you ly all the logs in one direction the top logs are blocking air getting to the lower logs, there are fewer air gaps. Lay layers at right angles and more air gaps for the air to circulate and the fire isn't stiffled by its fuel.
  12. I've never assumed that splitting wood with an axe is safe, ever since I dented the car with a pieve of wood. So far.. lots of shin bruises and cuts, bruised foot a few tmes when logs fall off the chopping block onto it, black eye once (log caught me on tne bridge of my nose), couple of cuts on my hands at the moment where I rubbed them along the edge of the axe blade. No scars yet and the golies are still safe.
  13. Reading this a thought ocured to me, but I am no expert here. As a new start your costs are ging to be lower so perhaps you can afford to spend more time on a job but charge the same. For example, a second hand van and trailer for start up, but upgrading later as you get better finances - but buying or leasing a new van is going to cost more than buying a second hand van (as an example). Similarly the amount of kit you own will be less.. you have less invested in the business and it owes you less to make a profit. Buy a chipper and suddenly you will need to thnk about replacing it and putting money aside for another and probably better model, you now need to save for a new van, new trailer, new chipper, new saws and so on. New start just needs to save for van and saws.
  14. I'm alway of the opinion to split it as soon as you can. it will start drying now rather than in 6 months time, get the job done and out the way. If you get bits that are tricky to slit you can always put them aside and have another go in 6 months (but you can't go in revese, and split tricky bits 6 months ago when green)
  15. Logs all going in 1 direction - I leanrt this years ago (in the Scouts I think) - put each layer at right angles to each other to let the ar through. The secondary school physics of the fire triangle where yuo need heat, air and fuel, bt if the bed of embers won't let the air to the fuel it's not going to go. Similarly if I mss adding fuel and the fire nearly dies, smaller pieves in a pyramid over the embers is often the best way to get it back to life again (for my stove).. alltips you will pick up as you go. Just to note, I don't have the option at the moment of what type of wood to use except the free stuff, so it all goes on and just got to learn heavy and dry = hard wod, light and dry = softwood and each produces a different type of fire. Heavy and wet.. it goes outside again to dry off for next winter


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