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Steven P

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  1. Steven P

    Extreme heat

    Just a comment, try runners or cyclist T shirt / long sleeved top, moisture wicking to take the sweat from your body and lets it evaporate better than a cotton one Always thought, check the colour of your pee, the darker it is the more dehydrated you are. Nothing wrong with a bag of crisps for lunch either and a banana, don't necessarily need isotonic drinks
  2. Just to check - are they charging you for more units of electricity or are you using the same but what you are being charged has gone up? or a bit of both.
  3. So I am not a fan of having one, purely that that adverts for these (I think by thr Tesco advert lady) are full of -almost- lies. If they are trying to sell me stuff by lies then you have to ask why.... My take on them is that the meter reading companies can sack the meter readers, get rid of the cars and their depots and save money... which they might pass on to me, they might pass the saving to the shareholders (shareholders might be who I invest my pension into, they might not) They say that they can bill me an accurate bill, so when you ask the electricity supplier to check and callibrate your existing meter.. because the smart meter adverts suggest your existing meter cannot give you an accurate bill... they kind of back track on that. No more estimated bills.. so you pay for your energy as you use it. In winter you pay a lot, in the summer not a lot. As oppsed to estimated bills where generally the bill is averaged out and you pay the same each month. Imagine a pensioner on limited income seeing a big winter bill happening, the thermostat is being turned down isn't it? This is the biggest drawback to them. I can save money with a smart meter.. err... no I can't. What I can do however is use any meter and work out with that, and with the help of the internet to work out what eats up electicity and to cut down on that (anything that makes heat, or cold costs a lot). My electricity has gone down from £110 to £45 a month, which is purely hot water, lights and stuff like internets and TV. Heating is by stove, and I reckon I can knock another £5 off this if The Boys could wear trousers 2 days in a row and if Mrs would use the dryer or clothes line... They suggest that knowing what each supplies individual use profile is they can upgrade the system efficiently, and again, this is a lie. In each Substation they have or can install metering for each cable leaving it, half hourly metered (or more frequent). The generators know exaclty how much they generate and when and so on. The information is there for them to know exactly what is used and when. Final thought on the adverts is that we can choose to upgrade the meters they say. As a part of their general maintenance they have to callibrate a meter every so many years if the adverts just said "we're upgrading our metering to smart meters, but you can get one early by calling us" and I would give them more credibility. Many people get a smart meter, fiddle with it for a month and then put the display in a drawer, never to be seen again. In the future I can see the economy 7 being changed to economy 24, with an app on the phone to tell you that days hourly prices, perhaps the same app to set everything to run at the most efficient times (big overnight wind = cheap electricity for example, dead calm night and daytime electricity might become cheaper). Maybe all linked up to a smart home hub thing where you can text your smart cooker to boil the veggies. And we are all gong to have one As for prices.. yes some genertors cost more per unit to run, so these are generally turned on last, and the cheapest are used first. Electricity company would love is to know the true price by hitting us in the pocket so we can change our use and time we use it,maybe to get rid of expensive generation. In the next few years we are going to need a big infrastructure change where coal and gas power stations are decomissioned, nuclear power is still being built and even with new battery storage green energy like wind or solar can't quite keep us going 24 hours a day. The country has cables to Europe to meet any shortfall. Domestically we loose new gas boilers soon, and get electric cars and our electricity use is gong to go up.. the government need to push smart metering and to change our habits to meet their green stuff, electricity companies need us to change our habits to reduce their infrastructure costs (more profits), but the one thing they are not selling and I cannot see is any benefit to us, the consumer.
  4. Take the bar off, run the saw and see where the oil comes out?
  5. So a battery saw is out then - not enough charge to last a day or a morning of just cutting without a lot of battery power I guess you would need 14" to 20" bar then? which at that budget is about what you'd get.... however narrows down what people might suggest
  6. Just going to say that, we often put the fire on for a couple of hours mid-summer just to draw out the damper house air and let the dryer outside air in
  7. Similar to GDH, some longer split logs lengthways propped up on bricks at each end, and then shorter cut and split logs on top at right angles to that. Once dry they go in the garage on pallets. Are your log piles on hard standing or over grass - might make a difference to the height they'll need to be to keep the lower ones dry
  8. I guess it depends on the diameter for firewood you are cutting. I tend to split mine first where I can and cut it later once it is dry. I am tending to go to a Qualcast battery saw (about 650W) over the MS181 (which needs a service and tune up) for what is already split - more neighbour friendly too. First question might be what is your budget? How big are the logs that you normally get (diameter), that might get you a better answer and reading this we all like what we use and very few have a wide range of saw to make a fair comparison. It might be that you'll get a couple of answers "Oh my saw will struggle to do that size". Lastly how many do you cut at once? A full day cutting logs or 20 minutes on a Sunday morning type of thing?
  9. When we got our stove - 8 years ago and rules might be different, the option was to have a chimney liner / flue pipe or a short stretch of pipe into the existing chimney, and based on that I would say it is OK to go from small flue to larger flue.
  10. This chart is the temperature outside my front door for the last 4 years, 2019 was cool as well, but I can't remember having the fire on this late in the year before
  11. I got a sonic cat scarer (Catwatch from the RPSB) and from 3 or 4 cat poos in the garden a week, 0 since November... so I guess it works well enough. As for mamals, seen a few badger, deers and foxes 'sleeping' om the roads round here - about the usual number, but the localdeer herd has gone from 4 or 5 to 2. I normally see the hare once a year and saw that the other week
  12. Which is pretty much the problem, quite ambiguous on this. Unfortunately the UK is based on case law - what did a previous judgement judge to be the law and no one will know until someone is prosecuted for selling 'wet' wood, tested with a meter that was out of its specified limits - not calibrated.
  13. I'm not arguing about the accuracy of the meters in the sub £50 price bracket, they are what they are, come out of the factory and reasonably accurate - I have a Stihl one.. it is the calibration requirement that I was commenting on more
  14. A couple of comments today.. First calibrate the meter and then measure a freshly split surface to get the best reading.” So for everyone who knows these things, how do I calibrate a moisture meter that a domestic user might use? I can spend hundreds on a meter and calibration device (just checked, prices in dollars for a quick check but $600 was the sort of starting price), but for the sub £30 meter..... (engineering head here, bung a known value electrical resistor across the terminals will give a consistent value as a check it is still reading that value next time but I am not sure an inspector would accept that "Yeah, I jus test it with this" unless it is a commercial product)
  15. If you are struggling to find out what it is, my fire bricks are 1" thick, 25mm and that seams to be a standard. Then you need 3: 1 across the back and one along each side, at a height roughly 2/3 of the height of the fire box. Mine has a 45 degree chamfer at the back 2 corners so that the bricks lock together at the back and at the front there is a metal clip to hold them in place. if you can work out how far back the side bricks need to stop you can probably get some made up / buy off the shelf with that size / buy some board and cut them yourself if that helps. Measure the dimensions and take off a few mm and you should be good to go like that.

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