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Steven P

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  1. The proprtion of wood I am burning has gone up - but it has been watmer so the fire has been burnign less. This is mostly becuse I am also at home and in control of the fire, rather than out and others n charge of the fire and the coal store.
  2. when our glass fell out we just took the bits out, put the spark guard from upstairs in front and carried out without the glass. The stove then just becomes a slightly more efficient open fire but it stillworks without the need to make a temporary replacement
  3. Whoops - just seen the exact same question below, please ignore me!
  4. Good morning, I have an excess of firewood and so want to sell some on. So what are the current prices for unseasoned split softwoods by the m3? I guess - a price for retail (small quantities, say a car boot full at a time) and a price for wholesale (back of a tipper truck quantity) (and if you are at it, why not add the costs for hardwoods as well - make a decent answer) Thanks
  5. The ash pan looks huge - OK having a big ash an might be OK, but does it need to be as big as the fire itself? I think I wold prefer a snaller one to empty more often - it's no harship to do that. If the ash pan was smaller it might look OK I was i B&Q and they have a stove with a similar 2 door syste, I was wondering earlier if having a seperate door for the ash is a good, indifferent or bad thing (again for what it takes to open a single dor and take the ashes out doesn't affect anything - and I do mine in the mornings befoe I ight the fire)
  6. I was gong to suggest string (a natural fibre one) but I guess there are a few problems with that. Customers understand the units of wood measurement "bag of kindling" being one of them. Do we want to add "tied bundle" into the mix? In a bag they will be convinced thay are getting the same quantity each tme... but from an envirnmental perspective its a good option. If the kindling i a uniform length they will take some time to tie together (maybe make a U shaped frame with slots to put the string through, load it up, put string round an tie should be fairly quick, buy the kindline un bagged) I also guess it would be less labour intensive to just lift a bag off a pallet and deliver it but my first thought was 2 bands of string tied around it. (just to note, i have always returned my coal bags - partly because he can see them and knows where i have hidden the cheque for the next lioad
  7. Just newsaer to clean the glass.., then it goes in the fire as I liht it. I tried stove glass cleaner when I first got the stove and that wored well, however once I used it on hot glass and it ruined the glass - so take that as a warning. Air vent - air wash vent is always ope, and usualy the main vent half to fully open, I rarely let it just smoulder, all or nothing and I canremake a fire if I lt it go out and it gets cooler
  8. I'll be getting some of tht then!! (seriously, compred to Lidle, I empted the ash pan yesterday I think and might empty it tomorrow with my usual smokeless coalman coal, had to do it hourly almost with the bargain stuff)
  9. So if I read the question right, you have 2 very similarly sized logs, when you split them both and checked their moisture levels from the centre of the log they both read the same 20%, then you put them both on the fire, whch one would burn the slowest? Should be both the same, how they are dried makes no difference really. Now if you are finding the air dried log burns slower than the kln dried log then there is a reason for it and the only real variable is that the air dried log is wetter (higher moisture content) than the kiln dred log. I am guessing your second part of the question is really gven the choice what hard wood log should you buy? For this you will get many answers, we all have our favourites (I really like thorn - hawthorn, blackthorn and so on, others will swear by oak, or ash). Pretty much (with some exceptins) 1kg of wood at 20% moisrure has the same energy as most other wods at 1kg and 20% (16MJ per kg according to google just now, just over 5,000kwH per tonne of kiln dried wood).. however we buy wood by quantity (builder bag, tipper truck, 'load' and so on) and here you should look for the most dense woods to get the best value. Softwoods are considered 'bad' because they are the least dense (generally) and so the least energy per delivery, Something like this link could help here https://solidfuel.co.uk/pdfs/GUIDE-TO-WOOD-AND-MULTIFUEL-SEP19.pdf and you can find expanded tables but load for lod oak is pretty good for heat output.
  10. I was a bit late orderng coal this week so had to go to the shops for a days worth of coal. Got Lidles £4 for 10kg... I won't be getting that again, a reaonable heat but so much ash it smothered the fire (had to empty the ashpan twice a night, normally its once every other day)
  11. Yes, it would be right to target the end user to ensure that they are burning dry wood. You can sell me wood at 10% moisture, say a tonne a month, but then dump it on my drive. Some months it might stay below 20% moisture, but this week, I'd be lucky to bring any wood from outside that wasn't dripping wet. The retailer cn do al thy want but at the end of the day the customers actions keep the wood dry or not. However, political comment, the governmet isn't interested in what is right just interested in the bottom line and how they can profit (and they will, simplest that costs go up so they get mre VAT) (look at recent policies - and not so recent - of 'can't fix it, tax it (Sugar tax, plastiv bag, Scottish minimum alcohol pricing , cigarette duties, beer duties...)
  12. I split it as soon as I can and stack it at the end of the drive - it gets afternon and evening sun for the wgile summer and any wind that comes down the drive, that seams to do the trick. I can tell, if I stack it on the north facing wal, it won't dry as quickly, on the south facing wall it is done within the year
  13. I read once that increaseing road capacity doesn't make things better in the long term, just they take a while to fill up again - so the crossing is no suprise hat more cars use it
  14. Same idea as a composting bin - wel known you can put in anything in there (including say, chicken remains, the bone from a sunday joint and so on), and ver time compost comes out. Gess they just got the mix right to make it quicker. Cannot do it in a normal compost bin because.. the rats get in and it won't get hot enough insde to kill any bugs. not that I woudl recomend this, but my litle 5wk stove will get rid of most animal bones over night (for the days when Ihaven't put the bins out for 6 weeks and it is full, a lot of waste gets burnt).. guess you could just use a bigger stove, uncle Bob goes in and heats the house as he goes? Saves a lot of carbon emissions too that wy if you're using the fire anyway


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