adw
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Everything posted by adw
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I would guess the kit should fit both machines.
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Pm me with your address.
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I recon the Husqvarna g clamp style tool will push that out no problem, i can loan you one if you want to try it.
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So i can confirm the part no.s is 501894103, they are readily available, Husqvarna dealers can order them, unfortunately the retail price is £100.43 plus vat
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I think somebody was pulling your chain, I fitted one last week in a K1260 rail, I will check for sure tomorrow.
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501894103
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Pictures of both serial no./ rating Plates please.
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Pretty sure you can still get a genuine 3120 piston, the only difference was to the cylinder was the exhaust bolts, the early one was a squared headed bolt that hooked into the cylinder, the later one was an m6 screw into the cylinder, the piston always remained the same, it was still used in the K1260 not so long ago before the K1270 mk1, and finally the K1270 mk11, I can check availability if you wish.
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What sort of issues?
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Husqvarna still produce many of the old models in factories around the world under licence, many 300 series saws and even some 2 series, the Uk has always done the right thing and not brought in higher emissions machines.
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Sorry got mixed up with the original 350 post,
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This sounds more like vapour lock, are you using old stored fuel? is the saw exceeding its max rpm, should be 12500, is the winter flap open in the top cover? are all the air vents in the starter cover clear? try buying fuel from else wear, is it a later saw with a fuel purge bulb? if yes work the bulb to pull cooler fuel through the carb. 0
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Maybe a slip and should be 550xp? if so mark 1 or mark 11 ? mark 11 does not have a deco valve.
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520XP??
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Where is your dealership sir, maybe I know it or even you.
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Not really a helpful comment, it’s an hours work to make the saw good again, if you are just going to right off every battery product because it takes you to long, or you don’t want to, it’s a sad reflection on your business, battery products are here to stay.
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I did wonder as to wheather it was right that it had an adjustable pump, but as said no fan of Stihl.
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split the saw, remove the control board, remove the oil tank and wiring, from the other side strip the chain brake clutch and drum, remove the motor, remove all the screws and split the bar pad assembly from the handle casing, here you will find the the micro switch, lift it from its housing and fit somthing behind it to space it out, re assemble.
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This is due to the chainbrake micro switch position, i have had to pack some of them out to create a greater pressure on the switch, unfortunatley you have to strip the whole saw to acsess it, it takes a bit of time.
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Thank you for clearing that up, ime not a Stihl fan, so he can turn the pump down.
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And a tooless chain adjuster, good luck keeping the chain adjusted properly.
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The problem with useing the saw for carving is full chain speed and very little saw dust to soak up the chain oil, surley the pump is adjustable?
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The gearbox looks devoid of any grease, however the plate you are refering to is only there to stop the top rod from lifting, if you hit somthing metal in the hedge this will cause the rod to be forced up hard against the plate, and can cause it to break, i have only seen them worn from age, never broken.
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As Spud says, split the machine and check all the connections, pay special attention to the battery connection area ( dirt and debris build up ), check the motor is free and no large build up of sawdust jamming it, when you say it’s stopped working completely what is showing on the control pad, any green lights? any red triangle. I have never had to replace a motor, so what’s left is a control board, a control panel, a micro switch actuated by the chai brake some wiring and a switch, so assuming all connections are secure and clean, you can hear the micro switch click when you actuate and load the brake, I would think the control board has a fault.
