adw
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Everything posted by adw
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That circlip has not lost its end, that is exactly as it should be, the clip with a tail is not standard.
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Is this a McCulloch 110 and can you still get sprocket?
adw replied to briscoe's topic in General chat
I remember that piece of junk, you had to take the whole damn thing apart to get at anything, throw it away. -
Should you ever need to remove the screws always turn the screws anti clockwise when re fitting until you feel them drop into the thread, if you just whack them in they will start to make a new thread and tear the alloy out destroying the thread.
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Glad you said it Steve, I wasn’t brave enough
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Your only jealous, I had a scrap saw and needed a tank as the guys tank had been sat and the bottom had eroded, being a bit of a hoarder I stripped all the parts off the old tank and there you are somebody needs it.
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Any good to you.
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I believe the original project was called air head.
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Some cylinders are like this, if you look at the screws the thread may very well be three sided so they self tap into the cylinder, if you tap the cylinder and use these screws they may be a slack fit.
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No, they have conventional seals, however I have seen collapsed bearing cages on the drive side so the crank has up and down play which makes the seal leak.
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Any piston or ring wear on an auto tune saw and the first thing that goes is a reliable idle, there was some issues with premature ring wear but as said the idle was very poor, the saw does start and run not act like your symptoms, to be fair the T540 is fairly reliable, they are a bit fiddly to work on until you have done a few, if we are all happy the impulse tube is all good I would next look at the induction and strato tubes, if the saw has been getting stuck and you have been yanking it to free it the tubes may have split.
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Stating the obvious it sounds like fuel starvation, so no disrespect to the dealer but is the the impulse pipe on properly? if you remove the starter and conducter plate, push the rubber air tube to one side, you can now see behind the carb plate, here you can see the impulse tube, this should be firmly held both ends, I have even seen the nipple itself pulled out from the cylinder side, if you see no issues here check the fuel hose is not trapped where it runs under the air filter housing. Is there any sign of flooding from the carb? remove the spark plug and tip the saw, does fuel leak from the open plug hole.
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Just a thought, the carb metering side cover plate has a small hole in it, this allows atmosphric pressuer to depress the metering diaphram, if this is blocked you will have symptoms like this, easy to check without removing the carb.
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Aftermarket cylinder on a 254! sacrilege.
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I think you are right, the 550 mk 11 has been very reliable compared to the first generation, start with a pressure/ vac test to rule out any leaks followed by an assessment of the fuel system.
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A little late to say this but altering the " the secret screw " is not a good idea, it is set by the carb manufacturer and can upset the carburetion completely.
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With the symptoms you have the dealer should do a pressure/ vac test, I have seen a few mark 11 550xp with a leaking seal behind the flywheel, as spud says a diagnostic test will show the carb settings and can give a good pointer as to where the fault is.
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You right Steve they did have some issues with the drive side main bearing spinning in the crankcase, remove the sprocket and clutch, grab the end of the crank and see if there is any up and down, if so it’s not good, a side thought is the short link rod between the throttle shaft and x torque valve, I have seen these get hung up and not close the valve properly even though the throttle shaft is completely closed.
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I still find it hard to believe it’s the tank breather, they are so reliable, and if it’s a new genuine breather there will not be an issue with it, have you checked the impulse hose? it runs from the side of the cylinder to the housing where the carb sits on. If all fails I can send you a shop manual for it to help you.
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I agree it looks genuine, it has the old style oil cap, so is a very early machine, the oil cap was this design so you could undo using the starter handle .
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Noted.
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Will everybody stop calling it a bloody primer, it’s a purge!
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This breather is used on many different models with no issues, you can do a pressure/ vac test on the breather itself, this what I normally do, this will tell you straight away if the breather is faulty, just maybe it was a bad one, we use it on the 550/560/562 etc and I see vert few problems with them.
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Simple to do a quick check, disconnect the wire to the ignition unit, move it away so a not to get caught in the flywheel, now try again, if the problem has gone then its the switch or the wire shorting out.
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I would not expect a miss fire due to a fuelling issue, more likely the earth cut out wire shorting out, or the ht lead shorting against the cylinder.
