adw
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Everything posted by adw
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I have a few of these left over from my chainsaw training days.
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Not sure why they do not make it, it’s Oregon chain, on another note there are no reels available or pre set/ plain tie straps, loops only.
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The auto tune unit is sealed so no issues there, as it has now fired up again, and you have used it with no issues it should be fine now, maybe a spray with some wd40 starter and drive side won’t hurt.
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I feel your pain.
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Bloody hell Stubby you do not have an 80cc saw, what happened there, a nice 480, or 281 or even a 585, I am sure your other half can clamber over one more saw to get into the shed, I shouldn’t really comment as I have a 346, two 357s, a 254fg, a L65, a F70, a ms90 and I don’t even cut wood anymore.
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That looks like the joys of a composite bearing cage, they run very smooth so reduce heat, however you have to wonder about the longevity of these main bearings.
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Pretty sure you cannot , the motor shaft is different, the deeper side cover will fit no problem, I do wonder about using the saw at lower rpm with the additional wait of the clutch, the biggest plus is the extra inertia of the clutch at full rpm.
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Just buy a 3/8 rim with the small spline, job done.
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So your the bloke that forces too big, and too long screws into machines causing all sorts of untold damage to perfectly good machines, stop doing it, repair it properly.
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Petrol for me, but I am just a sad two stroke person.
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Hell coil them m5 and use set screws, works fine, I may be teaching granny to suck eggs but always rotate self tapping screws backwards before screwing in, you will feel the screw fall into the thread it has already made and last many times of removal and refitting.
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There we go to all the people who say the clutch cannot spin off, imagine if the cover was not there! I wouldn’t be surprised if they did run this machine without the bar and chain connected, all good comments Steve but I would shy away from any compound on the threads.
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Pretty sure there will be someone out there that wants it, it should fit the 560 as well, good luck.
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It probably has a rotary carb, so there will be a tiny screw down through the top, you will need to dig the anti tamper plug out to get to the screw, this is the top of the needle so unscrewing will richer the low speed, there will be a similar sealing plug on the side of the carb covering the high speed screw.
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Gloucestershire Dursley
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Love a good Husqvarna Stihl battle.
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Its only a single position pump, so I would say that is it.
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You should have oil coming , as the hole I so big there will be more than enough air getting in so forget about the breather, if you are using thick non fling oil it will not pour out that fast, but should come out.
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So just clean the filter and push the pipe back into the tank, check the metal gear on the crank is still an interference on the crank and not spinning on it, check the plastic gear on the pump shaft itself, the slots should be straight and even through its length, to create a pump action the shaft needs to have a throw ( move back and forth as well as rotate ) this is achieved by an eccentric in the nylon part of the pump shaft, this runs on a metal pin in the pump housing, is the pin there? if you assemble the pump in your hand and rotate with your finger is there a throw? assuming all of this is ok, it will pump. If you are going to run the saw with no bar and chain attached leave the clutch and sprocket off.
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It breathes through the neck of the oil filler and cap, you can see in your picture the small cut away in the filler neck, why are you asking? is it not oiling?
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I have to confess I used gorilla super glue and sent it on its way.
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Good ones are few and far between, you need to know what you are looking for with a used machine.
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I saw one of these, thought it was an awful idea, I just glued it back on, I don’t think you can buy it as a spare part.
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All this talk of Stihl, why not a Husqvarna 545 .
