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About cjdg

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  1. 20 to 30 mm but not very wooden and strong so the Oregon tip sounds like it might be the ticket. Thanks.
  2. Dear All, Heavy Duty Brushcutter SALTYCORN.COM Shape Up Your Yard! Is your lawn looking a little out of shape? Is your garden overgrown? Do your hedges need a haircut? The Heavy Duty Brushcutter is like having a lawn crew to... Came across this USA tool on a FB video that looks to be too good to be true, rather dangerously cutting down small trees and making mincemeat out of small brushwood. I need something for thick bamboo. The Stihl circular saw blade is useless. Anyone come across anything similar in the UK? Any recommendations as to what would be best on my HD Stihl? Am contemplating welding on a (sharp but damaged) chain (the undamaged part!) to an existing plate as a DIY. Thoughts?
  3. Sorry about the photos' quality Now for the questions. Gareth has suggested HP Lithium grease for the sliding sides of the feeder roller assembly but what should I use for the bearing? It is a plain simple metal shell with a PTFE end stop. I have copper grease and will be buying HP lithium. It seems to me that it is a slowly rotating floppy (loose) bearing so a gap filling thick grease that does not melt away would be favourite. One of the splines is well worn and I am pretty sure it is the lowest one. Can one swap top to bottom on the basis that the bottom gets more wear (indeed is that true?) or Do you just wait till it goes and THEN replace it? or Replace it now? Just remembered - ran the machine for 15 mins as recommended by Dean and BOY was it smooth - not a hint of all the vibration pre repair so concluded that the flywheel was out of balance when I bought it which does not surprise me but I have done about 200 hours of productive work on it so no complaints cheers all Chris
  4. An update and further questions. Firstly, a BIG thank you to all helpers especially Gareth whose Green Plant service is exceptional. Here are some photos of work to date which may be of interest. Got the anvil blade distance pretty well spot on at 2.5 mm and 3 mm respectively. Used two shims which was the same as before. First problem was to invert the anvil which was welded on. Ground that off carefully but one of the screws (countersunk Allen key) ended up with a round socket so had to use a blow torch and club hammer. The first was to loosen up the contact area and the second was to rotate the anvil off the tail end of weld which was not fully ground down to avoid grinding the metal. Judicious use of a centre punch at an angle got the Allen bolt moving sufficient to get a grip. Once out it was easy to clean it up and swap over and decided as it was all messed up with weld to tack it back on where the plate had been worn down. Then fun and games with a large club hammer and a mate with a blow torch to move the outer casing back into shape. Followed Dean's instructions with a slight modification in that I put on both blades and rotated the free floating flywheel to about 10 different positions to see if it "fell" to a natural low point but try as I might it stopped at any point in the 360 so considered it was OK. Will post photos with this record and pose question in a new post
  5. Thanks for that advice. Rotor shaft is OK was a tight fit.
  6. Latest question please. The anvil on the main plate is a) welded on by the same sort of animal to which Dean referred. b) is well worn. I appear to have to choices: 1) build it up with a weld in situ then file or grind it to a roughly square section shape 2) grind off the weld, undo the nuts and buy a new anvil and put it on I favour No 2) and if that is the consensus would it be sensible to animalistically tack it on with a weld as well? I can only presume that this was done (as it was for the anvils on the flywheel) due to experience of them coming off in the past So Questions Do I go for 1) or 2) If I go for 2) do I weld it What experience do others have of any such NEED for welding with the anvils coming off or bolts coming undone? Photos of works to date (for those interested) not in any particular order. 7943 7944 7942 are of the anvil
  7. I knew it had to be something mindlessly simple
  8. Brilliant! Thanks
  9. Latest development is that I have managed to clean off the machine and get it inside. Thanks are owed to Gareth who has supplied the parts for tomorrow (couriers permitting!). Dean said "After taking off the drive pulley, I undid the four bolts securing the front bearing housing and withdrew the flywheel." Well, I have just spent an hour and a half with a mate trying to do those six words "After taking off the drive pulley" !!!!! There are supposed to be three grub screws holding in a conical taper lock bush and, as one was cross threaded, it was empty so that left two to undo opposite each other luckily. Once undone, logic dictates that you tap the pulley wheel off the taper onto the shaft in the direction of the flywheel away from the engine THEN pull the bush and key out towards the engine. The bush is well and truly "stuck" in. I have tried a blow lamp both sides of the bush, heating the bush and wheel rather than the shaft. I have put on gallons of penetrating oil spray let it go in and then tried to shift it. I have tried shifting just the key with a long blunt screwdriver to loosen it off. I have tried levering it off with the bush as a last resort. Must be doing something that should be mindlessly simple wrongly! Any ideas chaps?
  10. Thanks Mick and other Chaps! Gareth, Thanks for the offer but before I read this, I rolled up my sleeves this afternoon and got as far as getting to the rotor wheel, so everything is off including the plate and roller assembly and am now going to take off the rotor wheel but not sure just how it is extracted. I assume that a little penetrating oil, an assistant to hold and put pressure outwards on both sides and then tap it to loosen it and pull it off? See photo below. I see that the fans are sold in pairs and wondered if (as is said above it is a common fault) my original thought of only replacing one was misplaced and that it would be best to junk the sound one on there and put in two new ones? I am puzzled as to what the strain is on this fan as it is only driving air and not as if it is taking much load as for example the anvil and blades. Is it worth replacing all the bearings at the same time as they do not appear to be bad? Seems to me a small investment given the time taken to take it all to bits just to replace them. Thoughts?
  11. Big bang! so switched off PDQ. Sounded like a bearing (casing?) had gone with lots of heavy knocking but on looking at the Maintenance manual could not see this part shown in photo below. It has evidence of metal fatigue over 1/3 of the cracked casing (Image 78970. I suspect it is associated with a bearing housing. I need (I think) the following but subject to better advice: 1) a workshop manual if one such thing exits outside favoured manufaturers' listed agents 2) the spare part in question 3) advice as to what other parts I should sensibly replace since I have to take it to bits anyway (full set of bearings for the roller") Question The machine is in Oxford OX1. Does anyone know of any recommended service agent that can provide an estimate (it would not be easy to provide a quote till it is in bits) or guideline price and rates to take this off my hands. It is outside but at a push (literally) could just about be put inside. Chris G
  12. cjdg

    Husqui 550 XP no fuel

    Does not appear to be VERY resistant but then it never did. It is certainly not "easy".
  13. cjdg

    Husqui 550 XP no fuel

    That was my idea as well -works for a motorbike but was not sure of a small cylinder saw. In fact the fuel bubble is firm and appears to be pumping fuel
  14. OK, It was Christmas Eve and I just could not resist a bit of grafting to finish off a job of chipping and wanted to cut a bit of brash to fit in the chipper and my reliable old 550 XP 2 years old and probably with about 300 hours on it would not start. Its been good as gold for two years. It had not been used for about a month, had about 1/3 of the tank full was in the cold so not dried out and it "appears" that the pump is working (but no bubbles). Pulled my nuts off for up to twenty pulls - no joy. Took off the plug and it was bone dry - not a drop of fuel. Tried again with lots of pumping - no joy. I read on this forum that if it gets too hot the fuel vapourises an there is an air lock. This seems unlikely as it has worked fine for two years. OK suppose that is right, how do I get fuel to the carb? I was thinking of perhaps putting some in the cylinder and "hoping" that it might drag some liquid in but suspect that is a crazy hope. How can I tell if the pump bubble is working? There must be a way of disconnecting fuel line to carb and checking. Yours aye Chris
  15. Thanks but am sorted and as I am effectively retired (what a joke) it is cheaper for me to roll up my sleeves and get on with it but thanks for the offer


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