adw
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Everything posted by adw
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Dreadful things, users get over zealous with them and case harden the cutters, they then chip easily and are like glass so you cannot sharpen by hand, just my opinion based on what i have seen over the years.
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Stubby is quite correct, i thought you had already changed the PURGE bulb? if the the non return valve in it is not working then the fuel will just go back and forth.
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just another thought, the fuel hose with fuel filter on the end, which connection on the carb have you connected it to?
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Regardless of the bubbles does the bulb 1/4 fill? and does the machine run at all?
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I had a Jonsered many moons ago with heated handle, it took a tube from the muffler and blew the hot exhaust gasses through the handle, after an hour all my clothes stank of exhaust fumes.
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Ive still to here why a worn sprocket has caused the damage shown in the picture.
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Quite correct Stubby, a generator behind the flywheel sends power to the top handle ( around the under side of the handle ) out of the handle to either one or two heat elements in the back handle with a switch in between, later saws will also have a thermostat on top of the carb to control a carb heater, i tend to remove these as not required in our climate. Due to the heater element in the top handle being in the underside you should never push two saws together with their bars and chains throw the handles, nick the inside and no more heated handles.
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Who mentioned Husqvarna bars?
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I don't doubt there is operator issues here, however i still do not accept a worn sprocket caused that heat build up in the cutting area of that bar, are we talking spur sprocket or rim sprocket? i have seen plenty of bars running used chains with no issues like your bar, maybe just maybe its an issue with your bars, having incorrect hardening or incorrect bat groove, its far to easy to make excuses for your bars.
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Rowena hire in Bangor.
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Pump side diaphragm first followed by the gasket and cover, metering side gasket first followed by diaphragm and cover.
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Worn rim, worn chain? how do you figure that? surly this is lack of oil and or blunt chain.
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When the saw is running the purge is doing nothing, there is a non return valve in the bulb and carb, there is nothing to stop you completely disconnecting it and blanking the connection, it is only there to aid initial starting, the bulb is a purge not a primer, so as said draws fuel from the carb to the bulb, and back to tank. The short connection on the bulb is usually the suction side, so goes to carb, the longer connection is the pressure side so goes back to tank, if by depressing the bulb it does not fill, then there is no fuel in the metering chamber, so blocked fuel filter in the tank, tank breather blocked, carb screen blocked, metering lever stuck, fuel inlet needle stuck etc.
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Is this a remote purge bulb or connected to the metering side of the carb?
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Why do you want the old style brake? the later inertia brake was far superior.
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What ever it is, its old, old type air filter, old type inlet manifold clip, cant rule out 351, who actually cares, Stubby has the right idea, just use the thing,
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Oh, however if it had a new crankcase and one of our top quality dealers forgot to transfer the plate, then there could be a perfectly innocent answer to this, i cant believe this thread has gone on for so long, send me the bloody saw and i will tell you what it is, sorry had a shit day.
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I think this has got blown out of all proportion, the saw could be genuine, just had a new crankcase, police! can't believe you have done that, yes ser no. between the handle and tank where it joins under the oil tank, if it's there all should be sorted.
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The ser no. tag will , if still there, be under the top handle, where it screws to the bottom of the fuel tank, remove the screws and carefully pull the handle away from the tank to expose it.
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What are you actually after?
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If the saw had an auto deco valve and has been converted to manual, then check the rubber boot has not come off or split on the connection at the cylinder base, r/h side.
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02 is the auto deco valve cylinder, this will sub to the 04 cylinder
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Mucculloch consumer brand is handled by Husqvarna, in Newton Aycliffe, bolts breaking and blades coming off are the things of horror films, I would contact them and relay what is going on here before somebody gets hurt, don't go fitting non genuine parts as this will muddy the waters.
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Slightly worrying that a blade comes off, so insuffiently tightened, blade bent or unbalance, bent crank causing in balance. Blade bolt in the book says 70nm.
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The amount of drive links should not stop it running smoothly asuming there was enough adjustment left due to the extra length, is the sprocket worn? I guess it is a spur spur sprocket so should be changed when fitting a new chain.
