adw
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Everything posted by adw
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Yes, the bow saw, dangerous as hell, kick back areas all over them.
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This saw was the Husqvarna 162, great saw in its day, as everybody has said large bar mount 372xp etc.
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flex hone the barrel, possible new ring,better air filter maintenance, and get yourself some better two stroke oil.
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The Husqvarna XP Power fuel is developed for the auto tune saws, it has the Husqvarna full synthetic oil mixed with it, this is all we run in the service dept, even in machines that have been running on pump fuel with no issues, we did use Aspen, but now use the Husqvarna fuel, we did have some issues with Aspen, some strange seizures and machines that would not run on it, plus we were never sure about the quality of the two stroke oil in it. These are our findings from a very busy service dept, pretty sure somebody will be along soon with a different opinion.
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All parts and tools are available to purchase, re the crankcase half, you have got the correct half for your machine as the latter case has an additional screw?
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You will need a crank seal, and possibly a bearing as it is this far apart, the cylinder base gasket will go again as they are quite thick and don't tend to break, but i guess you will order a gasket set, there is a special tool to fit the seal so as to get it over the lip of the bearing.
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You can get the valve out from the outside, if you are careful you can re use it, i think it prudent to replace it ( 530026119, plug 503981301 ) the oil pump is buried deep inside the machine and requires a full strip down to get to it, you can fish the oil filter on the end of the pipe out through the oil filler hole, so worth a check , veg oil is dreadfull stuff and if left will block everything.
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There should be a white pourous plug over that duck bill breather, as it's missing it could well be blocked, you can take it out and clean/check it.
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Just what we need, somebody using a top handle saw for ground work, just as the HSE said would happen, and fuel for them to ban it.
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What is the point of this extra power when the saws i see have dirty air filters, blocked fuel filters, choked starter covers, loose nuts and bolts, cheap two stroke oil, knackered bars, and some very imaginative chain sharpening, most saws are not producing the power they came out of the factory with, sorry to all you lads who spend time on maintenance, but we don't see them very often, back to porting, its your money and your and your emploees health and safety, sorry got the right hump today.
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Higher noise, probably higher vibration, greater loading on the bottom end,increased loading on the chain brake, increase in chain speed beyond the capability of the trousers you are wearing, young apprentice picks it up, just an accident waiting for the insurance companies to jump on, HSE always gets involved in accidents, impounds the saw and sends to the manufacturer, who do you think is in trouble?
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There was a few ignition unit changes around the 36/41/136/141/137/142, so my first thought is the timing is out, either wrong part no. fitted or cheap Chinese copy.
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The HSE wanted to ban top handle saws, and still do, we all sat round a table some years ago and agreed to police the the selling of these machines within the industry, stickers were produced to stick on the boxes saying only to be used by qualified persons, one of the reasons they gave was what they called the migration of these machines into the domestic market, also the use of these machines one handed, carry on flouting the un written law and this type of machine will disappear.
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I also use the impact wrench, but have seen sheared flywheel keys if used too aggressively, mega tight clutches i have removed the flywheel in the past to stop this.
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Service tools are available, unlike what has been said i never insert anything into the cylinder, i have seen too many disasters even when care is taken, using this method is a direct force ontop of the piston, i always use the jarring method, just be careful when using the impact wrench.
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If you have the carb off for cleaning, check the small impulse pipe, it may well have become disconnected, this may be your problem.
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I reckon your on the red line pay roll Stubby, and dab it behind your ears every morning.
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Take it to somebody compitant to rebuild it before you do any more damage sir, as you seem to be going nowhere with it.
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This is a very well known issue, so to start, tighten the 10mm nyloc nut on the pivot ( the nut with the bell vile washers under ) fully, then back off half turn, next remove the gearbox from the tube, there is a small 7mm nut on the end of the allen headed screw, tighten this nut to achieve a greater tension on the pivot ( not too tight you cannot move it ) if all else fails, remove the screw completely, and resort back to the wing bolt in the end, the only issue is you cannot put the blades in the transport position, and you loose some pivot deflection. Screw part no. 537442301
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Poor idling on auto tune is very often low compression, due to a partial seizure, or excessive ring wear.
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Be aware there are more than one unit, you need to remove the flywheel, on the inside will be its part no, go to the parts list that shows that flywheel and select the ignition unit from that list.
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Ignition unit would be my guess, changed plenty.
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Talking yourself out of work Steve.
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Anybody who thinks preventive maintenance is a waste is the dealers delight, many issue can be sorted before they become very expensive issues, replacing fuel filters before they lean mixtures off, checking clutches and sprockets before the explode and destroy pumps and covers, cleaning starter cover grills to stop over heating, tightening external nuts and bolts, before the muffler falls off.
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BR0073 is a 16" bar for a tooless machine, part number 577614373
