cloggy

Yeh but it's a bit on the heavy side to swing about...... I normally just lay it down and let gravity drop it through.

Thanks to both of you.

I may have been a bit previous with my last post. I got a genuine gasket set for the tillotson. After fitting it the chainsaw still refused to run on the mainjet. The carb was clean as a whistle to look at internally, although the float gasket was baggy. There was also no sign of it ever having been apart. I have taken out the high jet adjuster and poked in some soft fly fishing line. It all looked good though I'll run some air over it tomorrow. There appears to be a strong blue spark and the saw will tick over. I checked the kill wire which looks fine. I'll disconnect it tomorrow to see if that makes any difference. The saw is a black top with the two piece coil. I can get a secondhand one, or for less than half get a chinese copy. The coils are SEM. I'm just wondering if one acts as an advance and retard unit. I've put together motorbike engines but know very little about saws. Any words of wisdom would be appreciated. I've decided that it may be the exhaust muffler screen. It's also never been apart. I take it I have to heat it up with a blow torch as it's not remotely interested in my tapping it apart.

I just cut to heat mine and friends' houses, and for timber for my craft. I presently have a solid nose 30" bar on a decent running 051 and a couple of 50cc saws running roughly 16" blades, a 31 and a Mak 5121. I doubt either of those to can pull a bigger bar through oak. I've bought a black top 61 powerhead to learn on. I've checked the bore and piston and am getting a carb kit as it won't run on the hi jet. If I sort that, what bar and chain is this likely to pull? I assume that this is a high torque motor rather than a fast cutter as specs say up to a 24" bar, so a firewood saw. I know I can put a bigger jug on it but it seems in good condition as is. A massive oak has come down on the estate, well over 4' across, and I've got the stem and branches that a friend's 16" bar can't deal with. What do experienced loggers think the best bar combo would be for me?

I know this is an old thread but I came upon a university research article on Husqvarna's production. The gist of it was that the Brazil plant was set up along the same lines as the swedish plant making quality professional grade saws. The USA plant is set up along Ford production lines making "Consumer" saws for the home owner market. I don't have a date on the research paper but Brazil stuff was made by higher skilled techicians rather than mass produced high volume production lines using semi skilled and unskilled american labour. It makes sense as in South America the demand for top quality logging saws would be much higher than sparsely worked home owner and farm saws when compared with the USA.

If you don't intend using it for a while just run the saw dry. That works on all my motorbikes and chainsaws

I love old Stihls [and very old Partners]. But I wouldn't buy a new one. They are either expensive, or cheap and not very durable. Recently both they and Husky have managed the trick of making some expensive not very durable saws. It all depends on the model. Friends of mine, full time in the forestry business have had their fingers badly burnt. Some now flatly refuse to buy a new model.They opine that it's better to wait and see what problems others are having. That's a damning indictment on both makes. The discount Makita 4300 is just impossible to beat. Too bad I don't need another saw; [well in that size range anyway]. These days I'd either buy Makita or Echo, and it appears the smaller Makitas are now assembled in China, with the same parts as before, wherever they come from.....

Yes it seems totally dumb that the Dolmar equivalent [510 I think] has a different coil, unless that saw is closed port unlike my bargan basement Makita. My builders merchant have the current 43cc model on offer at under £230 including vat.. Much as I like a deal I no longer need it since mine is finally starting easily, as long as I follow the drill.

Funny that, there's been loads of reported problems with modern NGKs on motorbikes in Britain. I now avoid them if possible. My local plant hire shop won't touch them. They've switched to Bosch. Their chainsaw mechanic races classic sidecar scrambles. Whether it's deteriorating chinese quality/design or chinese knock offs I'm not sure.

I fitted the correct 206 coil which ran the engine sort of. I'd taken apart and cleaned and blown through the carb block and the Low jet setting was then completely off. I bought the double D tool and after some adjustment it now runs fine. It might even start easily, which it hasn't been doing for a couple of years. My 5121 originally came with easy start, but it broke within weeks. When I got the saw back it said 5121 on the starter, but it didn't have easy start anymore, and it hasn't been easy to start since.

After a long while out with a bad back [in the end my chiropractor hit it, which worked....] I'm trying to replace the ignition coil. Perusing a USA website it says -206 is no longer sold, hardly surprising since there appear to have been a rash of failures. I purchased what turned out to be -204 which sparked with gusto but which wouldn't fire the engine. Dolmar PS510 the nearest Dolmar equivalent uses -205.Has anyone replaced 206 successfully with 205?

Thanks Shavey It has consistent good compression, hot or cold. The problem seems entirely heat related. To me it seems when hot something is progressively breaking down. I will check the spark the next time I go through a tank I'd already indentified that part number as being the replacement part. Significantly it is stated that it replaces .....205. I've had the saw three years and not done anything apart from filters and plug but it isn't my only one and I just cut firewood. It's on it's third chain. It's the lower tune model with less revs and an aluminium crankcase, at least according to all the specs I've read. It was easy start, but that broke under warranty and it doesn't appear to be that system anymore; at least if it is it's never worked as easy start since I got it back. I think they just shoved another complete unit on.

Loads of compression and as it starts but doesn't rev I've got some sort of spark. Got to get it really hot till it won't start at all to check for spark, but the first time it did it changing the plug made no difference. It's fine next day till it gets hot again. Last autumn it was popping and shutting off at high revs but always started first pull again. This year it initially does that till it gets even hotter. It also appears to be revving higher when it is running correctly.

I've got a problem with the above. Starts fine cold. After 1/2 of a tank it starts to pop and cut out at high revs but starts immediately again. At 3/4 of a tank it cuts out and although will idle cuts out when throttle opened. If I push it and keep trying it won't start at all till cold, some hours later. I've refilled but that makes no difference, neither does running the fuel cap slack. I suppose this is the ignition unit, but don't want to put the same one in again. Noticed on ebay that there is more than one part number to work with this. Wondered , if I'm right if Shevey knows of and can supply an uprated part.

There was work done on this back in the 70s when TZed Yamahas were all conquering racetrack motorcycles. They were getting lean seizures using too much oil and people weren't jetting up to compensate. Folks were trying to cure seizures by adding oil and the savvy tuners went leaner on oil to richen up and cool the motors. It's difficult to read a plug if it's covered in oil.