openspaceman

I can see a few reasons: 1) we are burning gas at an alarming rate and it was intended that building regs would deprecate gas connections for new builds by 2016, what the current situation is I don't know. 2) Most of us on this forum burn wood because it heats our homes cheaper than other fuels. Granted this is not true for most who buy logs as a luxury item. Since the demise of the pulp mills wood burning has provided an economic outlet for forestry. 3) It is possible and practicable to burn wood acceptably cleanly

First step, after making sure the electrical connections are making good contact, would be to check the pressure the pump reaches and whether the pressure relief valve is opening too early. Getting a new pump and reservoir is easy enough but you're limited by how much current you can provide at 12 Volts

Is that a question or rhetoric? You cite a couple of accidental sources which no one can have control over whereas there are a number of ways planned and regular woodburning could be controlled, though for now I think it will only be new installs that are affected and maybe larger producers of firewood (who already are likely to have a vested interest in sales of kiln dried wood). How many of us still remember the plumes of smoke rising from cereal fields in July-August prior to 1993?

Piece of string but in general yes because the excess air cools the flame, which is why a bonfire always has a plume of blue smoke even when burning well. When I started even in our affluent bit of the country bonfires were the norm, ten years later chippers began to appear and by 1990 they were ubiquitous. Now most home owners wouldn't entertain the idea of allowing one to burn on site yet, subject to amounts and not creating dark smoke it remains legal. In much the same way cigarette smoking in buildings first became frowned upon and then banned I wonder if a diesel chipper left on high idle will start attracting comments.

That's because you consider wood at 20% moisture content being the only way to burn cleanly. In fact if you keep the combustion temperature up and allow the flame to burn out without quenching then you can burn greener wood cleanly. The advantage large scale burners have is that the combustion can take place well before any heat is lost from the flame and before flue gases reach a heat echanger. On a smaller device the stove walls are often the only heat exchange surfaces, when they are only metal boxes the flame has little chance to complete its burn before it comes into contact with a col metal surface. This is why more recent designs have firebricks to increase firebox temperature and often pre heated air but the small size alone means heat losses per firebox volume are higher than large devices. So as one of the larger heat losses in a fire is from vaporising water it makes sense to minimise this loss to keep combustion temperatures up, hence the requirement for 20% mc wood. I don't know what other techniques will be necessary to meet the new ecodesign standards but it looks like HETAS will only be allowed to sign off these ecodesign stoves so simple stoves will no longer meet building regulations let alone the old DEFRA exempt stove category.

I doubt it's adjustable, the engineer also probably got his terminology wrong and should have said force rather than power. With a multistage ram the piston area of the first stage is highest, so as force equals pressure times area there is more force produced by the first stage than latter stages, with necessarily have smaller pistons and areas.

It may be easier to replace the lot https://www.ks-international.com/isuzu-4x4-and-truck-parts/isuzu-4x4-parts/isuzu-pick-up-parts/isuzu-d-max-tfs86-2-5td-2006-05-2012/clutch.html

Possibly worn master cylinder seals. This won't show a leak as the fluid returns to the reservoir. Symptoms include the clutch gradually engaging when in gear and the pedal down. Also a vigorous stamp operates the clutch but a gentle push doesn't

I'm so used to seeing P schweinitzii on pines but your L sulphureus identification makes more sense if it's on yew

Thanks for the correction, is the tree actually a yew?

A good point as even if its's not chipping it's moving a lot of air and that takes power. In fact a petrol engine at peak torque is more efficient than a diesel, it's less efficient when idling so run in batches rather than kept dribbling bits in should be better fuel use.

http://en.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/bars/prolite_bars.htm is one at least that is slightly ambiguous as it lists replacement sprocket kit under features where it should probably add "available"

It looks like a young dyer's mazegill, Phaeolus schweinitzii, common on older scots pine

Here is a picture of trees in our high street which were shredded up one side and topped quite a few years ago. I don't know the whys or wherefores about the job but it looked stark and ugly for a long time. It still doesn't look good but I'm surprised how the greenery from branches on the untouched side has grown through and softened the appearance. Were I the owner and given the house is just behind the trees I would have bitten the bullet and had the lot out as they are to the south of the garden .

I very much doubt it, the chances of the flywheel being close enough to still run after it has sheared are minimal. If the nut is tight and you can still see the key and it runs it ain't broke. The key is not what holds the flywheel in position, it just locates it and it's the taper and nut that fixes it. This is why you can file some off the key to advance the ignition and it doesn't affect the hold.