openspaceman

I have one from my daughter that packed up for just the reason discussed above, I recharged it but it had lost a lot of capacity and is not much use other than the usb port now. I think they all have pouch cells rather than cylindrical ones as these have a higher discharge current but shorter life. The silly thing is I advised her to buy a cheap lead acid one as her's was an EV that kept discharging the 12V battery, so it wouldn't start, it only needed to produce 12V and a small current to close the contactor on the main battery. Eventually sorted with a firmware upgrade, hence it just got left in the glove box for 3 years. Her new EV (MG4) just came to a halt in traffic and put itself into park before disconnecting everything, no warning. Had to be manually released and towed off. Turns out it was a temperature sensor in the heater circuit reading high. I remember the days when you had an oil pressure light, a temperature gauge and a charge warning light on before the car was not driveable.

Good post @kram. It's a bit like smart chargers for a car battery won't work if the battery is profoundly flat so you have to kickstart it with another good battery across the terminals. There is a good reason for this and that is the electrolyte in a lithium cobalt battery is flammable, if there is a fault in the circuit the charging current heats a cell up until it ignites the electrolyte. I recover batteries that have been left too long by opening them up and using a usb charger attaching it with small magnets one cell at a time.

Good chance this overpopulated islnd will not find food to import in the next 50 years

It's normally in the track motor, the feed only goes to half the pistons in high speed, so doubling the rpm and halving the torque. The trouble with increasing the pump capacity is that everything downstream has to be capable of taking the extra flow, pipes, spools and motors, else the oil gets too hot. and of course the motor and spools have to be rated for the increased flow. I had this problem to deal with on a machine my predecessor had had built and he had just added an oil cooler which didn't solve anything really. I found the spool valves for tracking the Forst too coarse and sudden compared with the Jensen and Greenmech tracked machines but we had the first two tr6s I think.

I felt the same when they were the Greenmech dealer for our area and was happy to deal with a dealer in Birmingham instead, neither are Greenmech dealers now.

These engines have pressure lubrication, i.e. with an oil pump, don't they? If so and the small rectangular hole is an oil gallery it would explain why oil was being pumped into the head rather than combustion gas pumped out.

More simple steps please. I've plucked them, skinned them but if this is simpler and quicker I'll have a go. I've a brace hanging, first in over five years. I shall check the meat for steel shot with a pin pointer.

Good shout, I was thinking an oak and the bark looks like ilex, I cannot remember the heart though.

I think I still have my FiL's empty coke can launcher which is probably much the same.

If oil is not frothing out of the crankcase nothing.

Over full with oil? Can you take crankcase breather off the carb and block the hole into the carb?

I haven't got a proper hang of these check valves but the main jet venturi is only under higher pressure than the diaphragm chamber when the throttle is shut and the downstream idle outlet is subject to full manifold depression. I still wonder if blocking this would overcome the problem at the expense of idling?? I still have a strimmer with the problem of air getting into the chamber via a leaky check valve to fix, along with a heap of other engines that need attention. Will probably have to wait till spring.

I had assumed it would be easier to pull the whole shrub then cut and feed a chipper. So cut and chip then go over the ground to pull roots is better?

Why did that remind me of "in a broken dream"

I doubt it and I bet they cost a lot. Stirling engines are typically in hermetically sealed units, like freezer compressors, to prevent leakage of working gas. The only DIY thing I would consider would need petrol, diesel, LPG or mains gas. A small water cooled engine and in my case just running to charge a battery an hour or two a day in winter.