adw

254 old school now, however if you have had the carb apart and now its worse then dare i say you have re assembled it incorrectly, so starting with the pump side ( single screw ) here we should have the diaphragm against the carb body first followed by the gasket then the cover, this is very important as on the diaphragm there are two flaps, non return valves, these work against the carb body and stops the fuel just moving back and forth, obviously while under here make sure the screen is clean, the pump diaphragm should lay nice and flat and not curl up, onto the metering side, here the gasket goes against the carb body followed by the diaphram and lastly the cover, this diaphragm should also lay flat with good convolution, the center disc should not be bent in any way, the centre where it contacts the metering lever should not have heavy wear marks, the metering lever should be level with the sides of the carb, use a straight to show this, if its too high bend it down, if it is way too high this is probably due to the needles rubber tip being worn, for further test you need a pressure tester, if the saw was racing before you touched the carb this could be the throttle flap sticking, or an air leak in the engine.

The 236 runs a 3/8 050 hobby chain, the 435 runs a .325 050 chain, to be honest these are both entry level machines so i see no advantage going for over expensive chain on them.

Yes they are.

The crank stuffers are on the crank bob weights, yes you would have to at least lift the cylinder to see them, and split the crankcases to replace them, just remove the muffler and give it a good shake if it rattles the baffles have come loose.

180/280/380/480/380K/480K/65/77/165RX/265RX, all of these machines cylinders would fit, obviously the 65s would be a lower cc.

Are we sure its not just the baffle in the exhaust that has broken up and rattling about, the fact that its seems to be running ok would rule out anything terminal.

As has been said already the purge pulls fuel from the metering chamber of the carb and dumps back to tank, if the purge is approx 3/4 full there has to be fuel in the metering chamber, this would sort of rule out a blockage in the fuel line or fuel gauze, i would be pulling the clutch, sprocket and oil pump off and checking the crank seal, they are a bit prone to the bearing cage breaking up and ripping the seal out.

A question for all you tree climbers, is there any mileage having heated handles, or trio brake on a top handle saw?

You pensioners should out in the potting shed, or pottering around the garden, not playing with this quality low emission machinery, i have this vision of you being a short fat chap working in his "shed" bit like me really! i think your a dying breed Steve.

So the might of Husqvarna have been getting wrong all these years, i will be sure to tell them, should get a laugh.

Changed the seal material? there was a change to the bearing cage material, there is nothing wrong with having a replaceable seal in the bearing, yes the early saws did have some issues with the bearing cages, and this did require splitting the crankcase to replace the bearings, a short block was introduced with the later bearings and an addition screw in the crankcase, this to further improve the saw and reduce labour time to replace components, there was also increased tolerances on the crank journals for a better interference fit of the bearings, the drive side of the crankcase is now in aluminum, this is to make this side more ridged and keep screws tighter, the top cover is now better vented to keep the carb cooler, my personal preference is to remove the carb heater on G saws, again to keep the carb cooler, in the early days there was a carb and ignition change running a different voltage, this to stabilize the running,the tank breather was also moved away from the air filter housing, this to stop fuel vapour entering the engine and causing hot start issues, there has been an air filter change to a 25 micron filter, this to increase the filter capacity, some G models will have a black filter 80 micro, this is classed as a winter filter, a yellow framed filter was fitted to the standard machine 44 micron, now replaced by the orange filter 25 micron, other improvements were made, stronger clutch, bushes in the oil pump fitted holes, a new sprocket with better tolerance along with a new bearing, this was to improve straight line cutting. Improved muffler internals, improved piston with moved ring peg. All in all the 560xp is now a very reliable saw, and a challenger to any other make and model, over and out.

I think i will give you a miss!, Husqvarna have used used replaceable seals in many saws, from the 140s through to the 346, i do not think your statement holds up, sorry.

Flex hone to remove alloy off cylinder wall, not the spring stone type, they do not work well in two stroke cylinders.

Can you believe this is being sold to fit on an angle grinder!

The later 560 has the flywheel side in magnesium and the brake side in aluminum, with all the short blocks that have gone out i am sure there are plenty of s/h crankcases out there that can be had, dealers must have plenty as they all fit short blocks rather than rebuild bottom ends.

Did you manage to sort this??

Bio maybe good for the environment, but is a nightmare to get off the saw, it turns to what i can only describe as chewing gum, leave it in an unused saw and the pump seizes and the pick up and delivery pipes bung up, i hate the stuff. whatever happened to Oregon green leaf, looked like milk!

If you mean 91 type chain(hobby chain) then no they are not the same as 3/8 chain

As with any auto tune saw lack of compression effects the idle first, i think i would have put a piston into it rather than a ring, have seen excessive ring wear on a number of T540s

Possible fatigue cracks from engine over revving, pretty sure i can see a crack appearing above the gugeon pin boss, just a thought.

Just google it Stubby, they are taking over the world,also try DXR demolition robot, awesome piece of equipment.

Husqvarna launch the new K770/K770 oil guard, the finest power cutter in the world, they also acquire the light compaction arm of Atlas Copco

Sharpened many hedge trimmer blades on and off the machine, probably easier with them off but agree the time to remove them may out way what you can honestly charge to do the job. Husqvarna King eh?

Well lets keep it going, what happened about atmospheric pressure on metering diaphragms? and throw compensator carbs into the mix that should keep the thread going!

Absolutely sure, it should be a Mahle, the 42 had a Gilardoni the two rear cylinder screws were longer than the two front ones.