adw
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Everything posted by adw
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Good lord stubby have you never pushed a trolley round the super market, they have caster wheels you know, check for leaks from the hydro units, do not drive it with either of the units in bypass, are you selling it or buying it?
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Depends on a number of things, how old is it? ser no. with date on chassis infront of the seat, is it AWD? what size deck as it was offered with three different decks, the picture of the deck is not the pro deck, this would have castor wheels on the front, does it have power steering or power deck lift?, it should have an hour meter so what has it done?
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Some examples for you you, .325 7 tooth sprocket engine speed 9600rpm 18.5m/s change to 8 tooth sprocket 21.1m/s. .375 7 tooth sprocket 9600rpm 21.3m/s change to 8 tooth 24.4m/s and wait for it .325 8 tooth 13000 rpm 28.6m/s
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The test i saw was with an electric motor driving a chain, the motor is switched off and the chain dropped onto a sample leg at 90 degrees, class one is 20 metres per second class two is twenty four and class three twenty eight, altering sprockets increases chain speed beyond that which is in the operators manual.
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Oh dear!
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I agree it is probably excess gasket, you would soon know if it was leaking as the oil gets on the bottom of the muffler and smokes pretty well, it wouldt hurt to just check the crankcase screws are good and tight.
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Green stripe all the way.
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Deco valves are there to protect the machines components ( cord, handle pawls etc ) as well as your elbow.
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Button in to start, most deco valves will pop out once the engine has fired, press in again to start.
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The oil should not just spit out, within the plastic houseing is a metal pin, this sits into the gear to give it a throw, so the pump shaft should spin and reciprocate, if the pins is missing it will not oil correctly.
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The 40/45 has a non adjustable pump, have you removed the pump? behind it you can remove the pick up pipe that has a filter on the end, the gear for the pump drive is an interference fit to the crank, is it tight?
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If its the same as the Husqvarna plug 10mm fine metric its part no. 503552201,
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assuming the saw was running ok prior to your cleaning it has to be somthing you have done, so chain brake actuated prior to re fitting?
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Unfortunatly this is gen one auto tune so cannot be plugged in to find information, things to watch are main bearing drive side, with the drum removed grab the crank and check for any movement up and down.
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Check the impulse hose.
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Can I charge a lawnmower battery with a car charger ?
adw replied to Aaron2010star's topic in Chainsaws
Lead acid battery no problem, gel battery has a different charger. -
Be aware the air filter elbow you need to change is different between the XP and XT.
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Let your wife drive?
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Have to agree the saw in working order is not worth a great deal.
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Zama or Walbro carb?
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Wire broken inside by the spade terminal at the ignition unit, as Spud says a continuity test will show the fault quick fast.
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Probably why your not a service engineer.
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New clutch tool is part no. 582834201
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Not much more to say as the replies are all correct, i wouls only say it is not a five minute job to fit the belly pan, the spring is easy to fit however but as Stubby says you need to fit both parts for a complete repair.
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Ba humbug to all of you i thought the 335 and later 338 were great saws way ahead of its time, the bearigs were sealed with the seal inboard so no crap in the bearings, the balance was correct just the oposite of the Stihl, the later cylinder can be fitted to the early 335/339 you just need to fit the later inlet tube and clamp, simple saw to work on, only pump issues were idiots taking the adjuster screw out and refitting without pushing the pump shaft back. know the saw inside out and love them.
