Jump to content

mikerecike

Member
  • Content Count

    666
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About mikerecike

  • Rank
    Senior Member, Raffle Sponsor 2012, 2013, 2015

Personal Information

  • Location:
    Array
  • Occupation
    Array

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. That's an ace explanation Barrie - I was wondering what that white tail was - thank you. So, pressure in the float chamber forces the fuel up the jet (cartridge) into the throat where it gets sucked into the cylinder by the turning over of the engine. I was a bit confused because I've mostly worked on L Heads where clearances are specd differently - inlet/exhaust - from what I could see for other OHVs they seemed to be set to the same? Thank you
  2. Can't seem to find any valve clearance specs (OHV) or service manuals for these newish Briggs lawnmower engines. Any help / tips appreciated. Difficult to start because primer not doing its job - pulled it out & white ring badly distorted so I guess it wasn't making the seal needed? New bulb & ring ordered. (Fires first time with a squirt into the carb directly so am assuming the distorted plastic ring was breaking the air seal needed to suck fuel?)
  3. +1 for the ATF/Acetone combo
  4. Thanks lurka - it's 10 cubic inches - not sure how that translates to HP
  5. Thanks very much Barrie for all that info - 57 is more than I want to put into this - I think I'll look around for something second hand - I have some Classic engine parts - guessing they'd probably be too small?
  6. Immediate solution: Open the air filter cover, take out the filter, open the throttle, spray a bit of WD40 in, give the recoil a pull. Thoughtful solution: For cold start - leave switch to off & pull slowly on recoil a couple of times to draw some fuel through the system. Switch to on & then choke or not depending on what works. (this approach sort of primes the system to fire in my experience)
  7. OUT! Thank you Barrie & Openspaceman - can't remember what combo of on top / under / spring keeper worked - I tried everything. What I couldn't do was anchor above the valve cover case - a cooling fin was in the way - decided not to risk pressing down on that. It looks like the ancient valve / keeper system with a pin - really hope it's poss to upgrade & avoid the pin - ideally match the intake hole/keyhole keeper. Yes Barrie I think I fudged my research & went for the 99 although mine is definitely 0514-01 - the hunt is on ...
  8. Thanks very much for that Barrie (fun on the way) & howdy! - it's a 100232 Type 0514-01 - I now make that part no: 494191 VALVE EXHAUST. Still curious as to why the design & spring strength for intake & exhaust is so different.
  9. Cheers for that - yep from what I can see it's a keyhole keeper - I'll give your suggestion a go - never sure whether the tool should be compressing the keeper or not - tricky bit is going to be the jiggling because there's no valve head to fiddle with. Other tricky bit will be to find a replacement valve. Thanks.
  10. Briggs & Stratton Generator - exhaust valve stem broken. It's an oldy 1975. Never seen a set of valves with different springs & keepers for intake & exhaust - no idea how to remove this fat looking disc - I have the Briggs valve spring tool - not sure what the action should be to remove this valve? Any tips? Every time I get this tool out feels like I'm starting from scratch - Barrie made a vid years ago for me but can't seem to jiggle this one free. Thanks folks. Gonna have to replace the valve too. Engine is 10 cubic inches - not sure what this is in HP? 5HP?
  11. Thanks very much Barrie - & thanks for confirmation re: part numbers - great vid too - cheers all - much appreciated. Tried a more modern carb but aluminium breather tube was too long- reluctant to take a hacksaw to the old girl
  12. Old red briggs 3 hp vertical with metal carb and autochoke diaphragm is running erratically. Is this carb missing a spring and cap to fit in that hole? Are they 692206 & 690766? Thanks.
  13. I don't know - it's how sit on mowers work and self propelled mowers drive via geared pulleys - not sure how much side loading is involved? One thing - the engine is designed to be used with crankshaft vertical. Question - is there enough mass in that small engine flywheel - not sure if the weight of the blade is factored into the design??? I guess the tension on the belt is the critical factor.

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.