billpierce

Damn right, 50k gets a lot of toys

Oh. That is more than i charge by some way.....will be reassessing this at some point. Just about to price up a 11day job, be good to get it right. Where abouts are you lux? Suspect prices are a bit different in n.e?

Usually me and groundie/climber, sometimes more hands if humping mountains of dreaded leylandii etc. I guess i usually price it on a 2 man team and then just bring in extras if it'll make the job go quicker.

How do you price jobs then? I'm probably pretty poor at it. I usually work out what i need for the day ( 8hrs on site, bit for chipper, and a bit fuel if its a trek away) what labour i want ( groundie, other climber, extra hands ), guess how long it'll take (including chip /log drops if more than a load etc), add it up and pop a wee contingency/profit on. Find it hard looking at tree and saying thats a 800quid takedown, thats a 400 prune etc

Id highly suggest doing a few days experience for a local tree surgeon. Just to give you a bit flavour of what the day to day could involve and whether its for you.

Whilst i know you are probably correct, Snigger, change fuel filter? I think i may have blown one out every once in a while but probably never changed one. Air filters, sure, greasing sure, sprockets, dressing bars, compressed air on saw yesh. Good on you though, i probably ought to change them

Also, took me a while to find the best way of getting it to pull through the cut, not like a 2 stroke at all. Here is a a vid of it vs echo 2511

Yes id say so. Got one with a 10" panther 1/4, do like it. Also like the price. Has held up fine since april anyway. Not used the husky or stihl equivient so cant compare really but@mattyf has. You will definately need a few batteries, i would go oem on them. Also your think 4 to 6 inch cuts, not burying it in 10inch of oak ( it will do it, just v slowly) Got an excellent deal from@shavey on here for the saw, charger, battery and panther bar and sprocket. Also@robd sells them pre fitted with the panthers from his website.

Does the 5 cube year/quarter thing apply to domestic sites? I knew about it in terms of forestry but not really aware of its use on domestic arb jobs? Surely theyd be getting plenty of applications for this?

Good saw, quite a few new oem parts, filter, rim sprocket, carb kit etc . Lively pab pab pab tickover. Plenty torque. Have a vid of it running and pics i can post if you want mark?

Nowt wrong with plenty holiday.

Looks like your having fun. Dont be afraid to get stuck in deeper to the wood, helps get away from the made from cylinder shape. Quite often doing 2 cuts like a giant wiggley v gouge is a good way of getting away from the standard chainsaw thick cutting lines as well. Also you cab use the front tip of the bar on half revs moving from side to side to kind of chisel off material in ways that are hard to do without this technique. Never tried aspen or tamarack. Birch should be ok but wont last outdoors well. Spruce is ok but like alot of softwoods, can be hard to get a detailed chisel finish. Oak is good and takes detail very well and lasts good. Hard, heavy and dear though. Im still working my way through a wagon of tight grained larch i got which looks great but a bit fussy when you get down to chisels. Sycmore and lime are nice and waxy, but wont last well. Same with holly. Depends if its going to be outside but I'd defs have a go with all the things you have on offer and just have a good play.

Here

I used a battery grinder with a 1mm cutting disc. Go easy, very easy to bungle it and take the chrome off the tooth/ get wrong angle. I'd do a few with a flat file first. Also worth doing some bore cuts without having done it so you can compare before and after effect

Only have air dryed. But some nice pippy elm.

Cheers dude

When is this released?

Hope confidently felled that with your truck parked there?

Had a rayburn no.2 which i believe was 1940s. It was still working well just didnt produce enough hot water for rads. Not a single crack in any of the castings. Proper job that.

Made a start on a stretching out hare this afternoon. Larch again

Link to diagram at bottom of page http://www.chainsawsculpture.co.uk/carving/carvingtools1.htm

Cant get it to focus if i zoom in too much. Here is a pic of standard heel and ground heel. The back of the cutter is filed ( i actually used a grinder but flat file works just boring)

Grinding the heels off backs boring easier and tip of bar gets less hot. Knowing when to out the saw down and get the chisels out is an art in itself!

Ed robinson used to have a brilliant webpage on carving tips, cant find it now, mick burns might have some good info on his. As simon says, watch the chain tension, watch out for a bar tip that is burning hot/smoking/ slinging black oil off as it will quickly deteriorate. Also bore cuts will heat it up quicker. May help not to run the saw on full chat too much while your finding your way with correct tension. Basically treat it gentle, dont bury the tip the twist it about hard etc. Few pics here of chain tension and ground off heals Enjoy!

I have a milenco one mark. The key snapped on mine, obvs at the end of what would have been an easy friday. Couldnt smash it off, had to borrow a grinder and cut it off, which was depressingly easy. However it did make alot of noise, and I was able to replace the lock and weld it up again.