billpierce

i don't know what the hell is going on now! feel like a right moron! so base settings for the ms 361 on the side read H 3/4 out, L 1/4 out. this will run but seems to be screaming a bit at high revs. 2 things are bothering me. the L doesn't make any difference at all when you wind it in or right out i.e. you don't notice chain starting to move when you lean it etc or the saw dying. is this an issue? i can't see any caps on it the saw seems to be on the weak side in the cut the rpm on the tach foes all over the shop when you get to 9200k so as i understood it i should just leave it there as the limiter is interferring? it feels to my ear that it wants leaning out but i obviously don;t want to damage anything. also with the carb this rich its hard t get it to idle even with idle screw in, the L does have an effect but still hard to get it to tick over reet nice. on the plus side changed a carb on a ms170 and tuned it up with success! again really really appreciating all the help!

aye its a ms361 , max rpm 14k. feeling slightly confused. your saying throttle open with H rich, leaning out until rpm goes wobbley or just before wobbliy? really appreciating all the advice!

got a tech tach 20k on sat. seems to work a treat until you rev hard then it goes to about 8-9000 rpm then drops to around 1000 even though the saw is going at full lick? i treyed 180, 360 and 720 settings and cables and wireless. any clues as to what i'm doing wrong?

will try, advice appreciated.

is there a good list anywhere on web of saws and their manufacturers rpms? thanks

my 394xp is weeping oil out of a split in the casings just under the exhaust. i can't really tell in your photo if its where the casing meets or a seperate crack/split. let us know if you manage to fix it. and anyone know about an fix for oil leak from casing - other than splitting casing which i hear would take a bit of time.

Thanks mikerecike - its about as far as it can go without chain creep. it seems to help if you wack it up a bit but then you get a decent bit of chain creep which i reckon is worse!

so i was trying to sort out a 254xp (doesn't get much better!) today for a pal, he said it kept cutting out. all seemed good, so had go at tuning. got it running sweet except that it would occaisonally stop if say you were starting a cut, a tooth caught on the wood so the chain wouldn't move, normally you would just release the throttle a bit and lift the saw but as soon as you released the throttle it would stop. no biggy but just wandered what i might have done wrong? also it would occaisonally stop if you were leaning into a cut and took your finger off i.e revs going from high to low quickly - maybe normal? thankyou thankyou thankyou in advance

great. thats pretty much what i've been doing but real nice to know your not definately wrecking your saws. what tach would you use? i seem to like running really old saws bought cheap then uneconomically spending loads of time and money fixing them constantly - learning to tune good must be pretty key to al this - and reckon many saws are scrapped as they are out of tune? thanks again

Thanks - when you say 4 stroking/ burbling i assume you mean not screaming, but not sort of bogging down (prob the wrong way of describing it) - its seems too rich on H and it starts to drop a bit so just off that yeah? white spark plug = too lean? chocolate spark =about right? black = too wet? does this forum have sticky threads? i had a bit look for tuning a carb on here but i think that phrase bought up far to many threads mentioning tuning. thanks again for the help!

can anyone point me to some reliable advice and instructions of tuning a carb? have fiddled with various saws over the years when they seem crap and all seem to run sweet but don't want to end up damaging them. thanks in advance

i've used ash for last 5 years on splitting mauls. seems good, can take a bit of flex which stops it breaking and also means less shock your hands which is always nice! oak i've found to be strong but can shatter/be hard on the hands. good luck!

yep oil should slow it down. i've heard of folk wrapping things in plastic or wet canvas to keep moisture in at night when they are working on it. unfortunatley wood in the round loves to split. carving from quartered pieces can help, sorry i know that doesn;t help you. you want it to dry as slow as possible. nice carving!

also i reckon look into kiln drying as this seems to double the value of boards (roughly)

Also worth looking real good at the end grain for checking/splits before you mill as often you can see which way some shake will go and avoid it running through all yer boards

I picked up an MS170 for £30 about 6 years ago, but a 14'' Cannon dime on it and its only just gone for a repair now! bar has died but it worked nearly every week for me for 6 years! quite a good starter/all rounder

surely someone wants this lovely truck?

giant oak sculpture i've been making. if you've got lots to shift we found 4t telehandlers at about £90 a day.

forgot to mention the trolley jock or bottle jack i use some times to get strops/rollers under. farmers with telehandlers are the best for this mind!

this guy lives just down the road from me!

thats me told, i'll sack that idea off! thanks for advice!

also PM sent!

i've used an alaskan mill using thin boards as your first runner to get a waved shape. worked well but your curve is limited to the witdth of your bar. also had reasonable success doing it free hand very carefully! will need a sand mind! what you making?

cant hook cant hook. have moved many huge barrels with a 4 tonne winch ( Toolzone Cable Pullers from £19 with FREE Delivery* ) strop it under barrel to trailer then winch so it'll roll rather than drag up some solid ramps. if you got the time and no money (i.e can't rent a tele handler for a day. ) thats your best bet. mind the beauty of alaskans is milling onsite first!

aye i found GB and Cannon ones - which are good just insanely expensive way to kill my saw! thanks