billpierce

660's have never bothered me on the ground as they are sat in the cut half the time. pretty cumbersome up a tree though. got mine second hand from national trust 4 yrs ago and hasn't missed a beat since. my 394xp is definately nippier though.

yep i'm keen to see how it goes

theres a ex husky demo 395xp for £850 inc vat at my husky dealer at the mo if anyones bothered? looks pretty much new

nah, right at the start of trying to tune my 361 i noticed the throttle wire was a bit bend - only letting the butterfly open 45degrees as opposed to 90. it was closing up snug. sorted this out but hasn't solved the problem. but obviously confused the tuning a bit just put it allback together to see if over night those wee elves come out and fettle it for me

tried that i'm afraid, 1 turn out on H and L and started trying the idle from way out to about 1/2-3/4 of the way is in where the saw will actually tick over, won't go above 2200-2400 where ever the L or idle is. the only thing that makes the revs pick up is if you take the L screw way out so it becomes loose in the hole and air gets in like that. I've just boiled the carb for 30mins (old fella at husky dealer said it might work?) but i'm not hopefull. reckon it'll be a new carb mind you. feels like i'm giving in! again, thanks for time and help

Done. Boggles the mind doesn't it?

well, just tried the idle (again!). so with L 1 turn out and H 1 turn out, i moved the idle all the way out then slowly put it in the saw would only run with it 3/4 of the way in and then the revs didn't pick up as it approached as far as it should go. Spud, i tried the super glue, and working on the plug, also give it a good clean with brake cleaner. sadly its much the same...... so is it new carb time or soldier on with this one? full carb kit with needle etc? to me its starting to feel like new carb time, i can't see how the problem could be to do with anything else? aaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. these chinese carbs a joke?i can get 3.5 for the price of one walbro one!

i find a dime tip infinately better, well worth the cost of the sprocket to go with it. i expect you'll never take it off!

the heal of the tooth on carving chain is often reduced making it easier to bore into the wood ed explains here but i think he wrote that before oregon and stihl started making specific carving chain. also the dime tip bar you use is 1/4 pitch nice thin chains so it drags less as it cuts making cuts easier! I have used stihl rollomatic mini E bars with a ms180 which aren't technically carving bars but they do run 1/4 pitch chain which seems to make sawing dead easy. don't really know about using different chain on yer standard bars as i tend to rough out with normal saws and reach for the carver pretty quickly!

feeling the special love! took carb to bits, all looks good welch plugs look snug as ought but expect i can't tell with the aye. put it all back together saw def still runs with L right in. so cheap chinese carb time? £35 quid delivered or NEW stihl one £113 inc vat with L and S or i fix it some how? feels like a carb kit ain't going to change much as diaphram looks good etc? or i send it to someone for fixing? as ever, thanking you

not sure, mine definately doesn't do that. don't know what it says in manual but i tend to only use my decompression valve when starting from cold. does it feel loose?

Thanks, man! Pleased it sounds like its not just me being a special. I will go check these welch plugs now. also when you say limiters do you refer to the blue and red plastic bits that have been removed or do you mean the wee springs behind the screw heads? i guess your talking about bits of plastic? I have used the all in then one out which will just about get it to idle only at 2100-2400 and sitting the LA screw in won't effect this. also when you say " the tach as well as the factory settings give a nice clean easy way to set a saw up and will be used by any decent tech." do you mean factory settings starting at one turn out and tweeking from their and knowing the max rpm? so with plug colour i will only really be able to tell after a good hours use or something? whats all this chatter about killing the saw in the cut to check all about then? seriously now, thanks alot

thanks spud got there eventually all is pretty good but it took me literally hours of minor adjustment (1/8th of a turn or less) to get to to even tick over. even then it feels really wierd compared to the 034 av super i just tuned (seems to run great and took 5 mins with the tach. on the ms361; the L screw seems to have no noticable effect i.e if you lean it the chain won't move, engine doesn't pick up, doesn't cut out. same with the idle, you might gain 400rpm with it right in and it'll cut out with it out. i've taken the carb to bits and looks clean and ok. and everything appears to make good contact (idle screw with throttle lever etc.) is there something wrong or is it just really different to my 660, 200t, 020t, 170, and 034? AND last question (have only found people argueing about this on the net.) I have tuned to roughly 1000rpm below max rpm as this sounded like quite enough for the saws (with bar and chain on at correct tension but not in the wood.) is that definatley ok for the saws or should i be keeping a close eye on spark plug colour? your help is invaluable, if your ever in northumberland the pints are on me!

also what is most important - chocolately spark plug or tach telling you your H is tuned a bit lower than the max RPM? also noticed the the throttle butterfly on the ms361 carb was only opening 1/4 - the throttle wire looked a little bend so straightened that up but same problem as above.

i don't know what the hell is going on now! feel like a right moron! so base settings for the ms 361 on the side read H 3/4 out, L 1/4 out. this will run but seems to be screaming a bit at high revs. 2 things are bothering me. the L doesn't make any difference at all when you wind it in or right out i.e. you don't notice chain starting to move when you lean it etc or the saw dying. is this an issue? i can't see any caps on it the saw seems to be on the weak side in the cut the rpm on the tach foes all over the shop when you get to 9200k so as i understood it i should just leave it there as the limiter is interferring? it feels to my ear that it wants leaning out but i obviously don;t want to damage anything. also with the carb this rich its hard t get it to idle even with idle screw in, the L does have an effect but still hard to get it to tick over reet nice. on the plus side changed a carb on a ms170 and tuned it up with success! again really really appreciating all the help!

aye its a ms361 , max rpm 14k. feeling slightly confused. your saying throttle open with H rich, leaning out until rpm goes wobbley or just before wobbliy? really appreciating all the advice!

got a tech tach 20k on sat. seems to work a treat until you rev hard then it goes to about 8-9000 rpm then drops to around 1000 even though the saw is going at full lick? i treyed 180, 360 and 720 settings and cables and wireless. any clues as to what i'm doing wrong?

will try, advice appreciated.

is there a good list anywhere on web of saws and their manufacturers rpms? thanks

my 394xp is weeping oil out of a split in the casings just under the exhaust. i can't really tell in your photo if its where the casing meets or a seperate crack/split. let us know if you manage to fix it. and anyone know about an fix for oil leak from casing - other than splitting casing which i hear would take a bit of time.

Thanks mikerecike - its about as far as it can go without chain creep. it seems to help if you wack it up a bit but then you get a decent bit of chain creep which i reckon is worse!

so i was trying to sort out a 254xp (doesn't get much better!) today for a pal, he said it kept cutting out. all seemed good, so had go at tuning. got it running sweet except that it would occaisonally stop if say you were starting a cut, a tooth caught on the wood so the chain wouldn't move, normally you would just release the throttle a bit and lift the saw but as soon as you released the throttle it would stop. no biggy but just wandered what i might have done wrong? also it would occaisonally stop if you were leaning into a cut and took your finger off i.e revs going from high to low quickly - maybe normal? thankyou thankyou thankyou in advance

great. thats pretty much what i've been doing but real nice to know your not definately wrecking your saws. what tach would you use? i seem to like running really old saws bought cheap then uneconomically spending loads of time and money fixing them constantly - learning to tune good must be pretty key to al this - and reckon many saws are scrapped as they are out of tune? thanks again

Thanks - when you say 4 stroking/ burbling i assume you mean not screaming, but not sort of bogging down (prob the wrong way of describing it) - its seems too rich on H and it starts to drop a bit so just off that yeah? white spark plug = too lean? chocolate spark =about right? black = too wet? does this forum have sticky threads? i had a bit look for tuning a carb on here but i think that phrase bought up far to many threads mentioning tuning. thanks again for the help!

can anyone point me to some reliable advice and instructions of tuning a carb? have fiddled with various saws over the years when they seem crap and all seem to run sweet but don't want to end up damaging them. thanks in advance