billpierce

found [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ee9a8B3CaI]this[/ame] whilst trying to fix my strimmer. put a smile on my face

you can get them in america Tree House Fasteners & Bolts seemed rediculously dear when i looked into it. ended up using stainless coach bolts (tool station does these.) for bits thatg joined to v big limbs that wouldn't sway much and using wire rope going through water pipe with spacers looping around beams to they could swing a little when the tree moved. also stainless 12/16mm threaded bar was good you can kind of see it here and many photos here if your really keen have fun!

easy now, be fair they come with a "life time" warranty now days. so if you haven't killed yourself with frustration they replace it if you remembered to register and kept the reciept which you invariably didn't. i too hate silverline. their self tapping screws are really special, if you fancy treating yourself i'd reccomend them. i also accidentally bought some PZ2's which came with a life time warrenty! the singlular exception is a chainsaw bar log vice i got for £8 from them which has lasted nearly 2 years (have used it too.).

just one of those things that feels like there must be a better way. where anyone know of a good place to get a proper lugall from?

i tip my hat at you sir. you must be a patient man

guess the barrow mounted one for kiddling/cooking wood was a pit of a better idea

i like the idea, he seems to have to push pretty hard which seems like an accident waiting to happen. the petrol one somehow seemed safer. thing is, is it actually a time saver? i don't really struggle cutting up wood?

thanks will do

with tension on the ones i've used its a pretty slow and fiddley to get the the point where they can free spool. makes me feel malcordinated everytime

once you've air lined it try filling th oil sump with petrol and running the saw. if its sorteed you'll see/smell pertol running out the oil hole. can;t remember if it applies to the ms 200 but don't spin the clutch off if your doing this

probably wouldn't flow through the pump. try an air line i would, blow it all clear then try again with wd/petrol then decent chain oil. i've used veg oil for years with no probs, but i always mix it a bit with chain oil just to thicken it up and to stop it setting when left unused for a while. veg oil prob isn't the problem, but best to try with normal just to make sure.

also have you been running it on proper oil? i thought i had a problem with an 010av then i used thick chain oil instead of veg and it works fine now. almost like the veg oil was too thin for the pump? when you fired WD40 in did it come out the other end? can you check the line with a airline (take oil cap off first? was it pulling petrol through when you ran petrol through it? i guess its full of crap if filter was missing and tank was full of crap. not done it to a ms200 but getting to the oil pump to clean it has been ok for me as long as you take your time and remember where averything goes.....

husky fuel can. lugall winch release mechanism, compressors thar leak air until you remove the tool from the hose. agree with treeseer about chainsaws. damn sharp silky is the way to go for alot of things

i agree not planting trees is definately bad. but is complicated isn't it cos if IKEA essential are endorsed by woodland trust and this restores peoples faith in them and its just a joke PR stunt that is pretty harmful. suppose it depends how synical you are on these big companys actually changing or just wanting to look like they've changed!

yeah that helps. i learnt that one the first time round, the last two have just stopped popping back up so you fill up, it stops when your tank is full, you whip it out and cover your saw in fuel. or youmanually push it back down. annoys me quite a few times a day,....

if he is also sometime known as Rob i've tried to get in touch with him loads....was he in afghanistan? thats who dave hornby put me in touch with. also tried stevie hills but we he was pretty flat out for forseable future. any other names? thanks

oh forgot to mention there a 2 maybe 3 of us thanks goaty. i keep hearing of people that have stopped doing it now!

pal of mine uses 40:1 swears by it. recons its easier on the saws too. anyone else do that?

suppose i should do my cs39. anynow anyone around the Hexham/Newcastle/Carlisle/Penrith area? Thanks

anyone got a good fix for these hucky combi cans? is it just me or are the spouts made of the weakest plastic/design imaginable? been through 3 fuel lids in 12 months and my current one leaks. you have to push it back up when you've finished refueling. any other spouts have the same thread? should i just put it in the bin?

yeah its always a bummer when governments get labelled as "your government" when in fact they are usually undemocratically elected in the first place (pretty flawed electoral system.). still i feel calling immigrants a pox is a bit on the strong side, especially given the mixed cultural background america is made up of in the not to distant history.

i think i'd rather walk down a street with pollarded trees in than no trees. but only just, and i'd rather be in france!

great stuff! in terms of charging? i reckon you got to decide on a fair hourly rate for yourself, plus you timber. mine varies massively depending on who its for, how fun it is etc. £12-20 an hour depending on how fast you work!

so yes i know not a chainsaw but thought someone might be able to point me in the right direction. bought a used fs55r strimmer, 2007 model. tried it worked good, cn anyone guess the rest?.......got home worked good for 30 mins, put it down came back 2 hours later the thin wouldn;t start. the air filter was soaked with fuel, so cleaned that and the housing but, it fired but wouldn't go. spark plug wasn't wet, pissed around a good bit occainsonal getting it to go (starting with throttle on.) and it sounded like a heavy mix. checked carb settings it was on 2 3/4 H and 1 1/3 L (factory is 3/4 h and 1 L.) so put them to that then left it alone. started mint this morning hurray! idled well etc. then 2 hours later was up to same again, except this time it would run better with throttle on but wouldn't idle at all. it was still a nob to start my arm is tired now. the fella will give me my money back so no biggy, but would also quite like to fix it. where to start then fellas? felt like the carb bore was getting pretty full of petrol. thanks in advance

ok, so what shoudl that check valve look like? there is a wee bit of blue something around the edges of it. should it be sealed from the top i.e in photo 5. i can't see how anything is supposed to flow from where this diaphram is down threw it. i'll just leave it alone for now, but was wondering if it might have something to do with this L circuit leak?