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billpierce

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Everything posted by billpierce

  1. i've used ash for last 5 years on splitting mauls. seems good, can take a bit of flex which stops it breaking and also means less shock your hands which is always nice! oak i've found to be strong but can shatter/be hard on the hands. good luck!
  2. yep oil should slow it down. i've heard of folk wrapping things in plastic or wet canvas to keep moisture in at night when they are working on it. unfortunatley wood in the round loves to split. carving from quartered pieces can help, sorry i know that doesn;t help you. you want it to dry as slow as possible. nice carving!
  3. also i reckon look into kiln drying as this seems to double the value of boards (roughly)
  4. Also worth looking real good at the end grain for checking/splits before you mill as often you can see which way some shake will go and avoid it running through all yer boards
  5. I picked up an MS170 for £30 about 6 years ago, but a 14'' Cannon dime on it and its only just gone for a repair now! bar has died but it worked nearly every week for me for 6 years! quite a good starter/all rounder
  6. surely someone wants this lovely truck?
  7. giant oak sculpture i've been making. if you've got lots to shift we found 4t telehandlers at about £90 a day.
  8. forgot to mention the trolley jock or bottle jack i use some times to get strops/rollers under. farmers with telehandlers are the best for this mind!
  9. this guy lives just down the road from me!
  10. thats me told, i'll sack that idea off! thanks for advice!
  11. i've used an alaskan mill using thin boards as your first runner to get a waved shape. worked well but your curve is limited to the witdth of your bar. also had reasonable success doing it free hand very carefully! will need a sand mind! what you making?
  12. cant hook cant hook. have moved many huge barrels with a 4 tonne winch ( Toolzone Cable Pullers from £19 with FREE Delivery* ) strop it under barrel to trailer then winch so it'll roll rather than drag up some solid ramps. if you got the time and no money (i.e can't rent a tele handler for a day. ) thats your best bet. mind the beauty of alaskans is milling onsite first!
  13. aye i found GB and Cannon ones - which are good just insanely expensive way to kill my saw! thanks
  14. such a pain in the arse! and everyone seems to tell you something different. depends also when you passed your test no? you vehicle should have a max train wieght which should tell you what you can pull with that vehicle - my hilux is a joke - says 1.5 tonne total trailer load or something like that! if your total wieght is less than 3.5 tonne do you still need a tach?
  15. never seen 'em. bit like a arbtech thing i guess?
  16. hi, i've done a fair bit of milling with a 36'' bar on a 394xp which is pretty tired now. wanted to get a 48'' bar for my 660 to use with my alaskan mill (which is a 48'' mill.). i know it'll be reet slow but its just for the odd amazing bit of timber. so the biggest i can find listed for a ms660 is 36''. any reason i can use a oregon bar for a 880 if i change my 3/8 sprocket for a .404 one? keen to avoid paying out then having to send it all back. also anyone got any 088's out there? also anyone felling an oak/elm/yew/larch in or around northumberland - i'm a sculptor making big things - want to trees whole! ta
  17. see the classifieds for details. will potentially break for parts i.e the dropside back - may be of interest?

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