billpierce

let us know what you think. yep the tooless tensions i have seen on husky and stihl are def worth a skip i would say. unless you like breaking plastic and having a slack chain. where/how do you get your dolmar kit and whats it like for spares?

don't have a magnifying glass. but tried it with strong light and couldn't see the slightest of holes. it was a tiny but wet on the top when it came off. so, Carb kit £9-£25 and/or H/L screws £5 each or post it to Local still place for "sonic rinse" and they will sort it/tell its knackered or just £107 on a newy? or if anyone else wants to fix it/test it/sell me a carb (walbro HD34A)?

anyone had any fun with either a dolmar PS-3410 or makita DCS3410. its their version of a back handle ms200 i guess. would be interested to know if anyones used one for carving. i currently carve with ms 170/180's which are nice and light and i think the raw wining power of the 30cc engine actually increases bar life, but it would also be nice to have a saw i can rely on.(not that the ms170's actually let me down, just i feel they probably will at some critical point.) or any other suggestions of pro carving saws? echos?

yeah chain saws have a special way of making yer mouth do that haven't they? makes me more determined to sort my 394 out rather than selling it for spares.

sorry for all these photos, wasn't quite sure what would be helpful to see....not really that sorry actually. more just grateful if your looking....

lovely thanks.

p.s i have looked on the net and an't find any info!

nieghbour gave me his dolmar 112. new starter cord in and its cutting like a champ! almost well enough to fully convert me to only using old dolmars. if only my biceps were up to it. anyway just wondering if anyone knows roughly (or exacty) what the max rpm is for them? thanks

Also from what i understand of what was said, the rpm limiter should be doing its wobbly thing to my tach around 13.5k? the tach reads up to about 9200 then reads 1700, this is obviously wierd and it occaisonally goes all over the shop but def settles on 1700 ish. could that be some sort of fault or are these limiters pretty mental? with it tuned just over the 9200 mark it seems to cut ok, but it does cut out after medium- long cuts , which i can't seem to get rid of what with have little or no L adjust. also the idle is 2000-2400 rpm which doesn;t help - again i seem to have no control over this. sorry for repetition!

when idle is out butterfly seals up real good apart from 2 tiny half moons which should be there anyway. can i tell from looking if the L screw is over worn? can i get those screws bits seperately? is it worth further messing around/time/money? i'm pretty keen to get the bottom of this......

Anyone had much joy/swearing with non genuine parts? particulaly carbs? £34 or £113 is y choice so it'd need to be a good bit better. just got cheapo one for a ms170 carver which seems fine but hasn't had the test of time. reckon it's got to be worth a shot?

660's have never bothered me on the ground as they are sat in the cut half the time. pretty cumbersome up a tree though. got mine second hand from national trust 4 yrs ago and hasn't missed a beat since. my 394xp is definately nippier though.

yep i'm keen to see how it goes

theres a ex husky demo 395xp for £850 inc vat at my husky dealer at the mo if anyones bothered? looks pretty much new

nah, right at the start of trying to tune my 361 i noticed the throttle wire was a bit bend - only letting the butterfly open 45degrees as opposed to 90. it was closing up snug. sorted this out but hasn't solved the problem. but obviously confused the tuning a bit just put it allback together to see if over night those wee elves come out and fettle it for me

tried that i'm afraid, 1 turn out on H and L and started trying the idle from way out to about 1/2-3/4 of the way is in where the saw will actually tick over, won't go above 2200-2400 where ever the L or idle is. the only thing that makes the revs pick up is if you take the L screw way out so it becomes loose in the hole and air gets in like that. I've just boiled the carb for 30mins (old fella at husky dealer said it might work?) but i'm not hopefull. reckon it'll be a new carb mind you. feels like i'm giving in! again, thanks for time and help

Done. Boggles the mind doesn't it?

well, just tried the idle (again!). so with L 1 turn out and H 1 turn out, i moved the idle all the way out then slowly put it in the saw would only run with it 3/4 of the way in and then the revs didn't pick up as it approached as far as it should go. Spud, i tried the super glue, and working on the plug, also give it a good clean with brake cleaner. sadly its much the same...... so is it new carb time or soldier on with this one? full carb kit with needle etc? to me its starting to feel like new carb time, i can't see how the problem could be to do with anything else? aaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. these chinese carbs a joke?i can get 3.5 for the price of one walbro one!

i find a dime tip infinately better, well worth the cost of the sprocket to go with it. i expect you'll never take it off!

the heal of the tooth on carving chain is often reduced making it easier to bore into the wood ed explains here but i think he wrote that before oregon and stihl started making specific carving chain. also the dime tip bar you use is 1/4 pitch nice thin chains so it drags less as it cuts making cuts easier! I have used stihl rollomatic mini E bars with a ms180 which aren't technically carving bars but they do run 1/4 pitch chain which seems to make sawing dead easy. don't really know about using different chain on yer standard bars as i tend to rough out with normal saws and reach for the carver pretty quickly!

feeling the special love! took carb to bits, all looks good welch plugs look snug as ought but expect i can't tell with the aye. put it all back together saw def still runs with L right in. so cheap chinese carb time? £35 quid delivered or NEW stihl one £113 inc vat with L and S or i fix it some how? feels like a carb kit ain't going to change much as diaphram looks good etc? or i send it to someone for fixing? as ever, thanking you

not sure, mine definately doesn't do that. don't know what it says in manual but i tend to only use my decompression valve when starting from cold. does it feel loose?

Thanks, man! Pleased it sounds like its not just me being a special. I will go check these welch plugs now. also when you say limiters do you refer to the blue and red plastic bits that have been removed or do you mean the wee springs behind the screw heads? i guess your talking about bits of plastic? I have used the all in then one out which will just about get it to idle only at 2100-2400 and sitting the LA screw in won't effect this. also when you say " the tach as well as the factory settings give a nice clean easy way to set a saw up and will be used by any decent tech." do you mean factory settings starting at one turn out and tweeking from their and knowing the max rpm? so with plug colour i will only really be able to tell after a good hours use or something? whats all this chatter about killing the saw in the cut to check all about then? seriously now, thanks alot

thanks spud got there eventually all is pretty good but it took me literally hours of minor adjustment (1/8th of a turn or less) to get to to even tick over. even then it feels really wierd compared to the 034 av super i just tuned (seems to run great and took 5 mins with the tach. on the ms361; the L screw seems to have no noticable effect i.e if you lean it the chain won't move, engine doesn't pick up, doesn't cut out. same with the idle, you might gain 400rpm with it right in and it'll cut out with it out. i've taken the carb to bits and looks clean and ok. and everything appears to make good contact (idle screw with throttle lever etc.) is there something wrong or is it just really different to my 660, 200t, 020t, 170, and 034? AND last question (have only found people argueing about this on the net.) I have tuned to roughly 1000rpm below max rpm as this sounded like quite enough for the saws (with bar and chain on at correct tension but not in the wood.) is that definatley ok for the saws or should i be keeping a close eye on spark plug colour? your help is invaluable, if your ever in northumberland the pints are on me!

also what is most important - chocolately spark plug or tach telling you your H is tuned a bit lower than the max RPM? also noticed the the throttle butterfly on the ms361 carb was only opening 1/4 - the throttle wire looked a little bend so straightened that up but same problem as above.