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billpierce

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Everything posted by billpierce

  1. so i have got a bit muddled, but can someone clarify- if i'm looking to buy a makita/dolamr 5000 or similar which are the models/years to avoid? also i use red stihl oil on all saws is this going to be a bother?
  2. nought like a bit of soily wood cutting eh?
  3. thanks adw, is there a difference between the white top, orange and grey? i found a part diagram on the web but thanks for the offer. cheers
  4. i think the main advantages of chainsaw milling is that you move it to the log and you can mill wide. i wouldn't want a chainsaw mill which is a pain to move around/can't mill very wide as it is a slow and fuel inefficient process. personally i'd just get an alaskan if you haven't already. if you have lots of small gauge wood to mill i'd take it to a saw mill.
  5. the stihl micro chain is well thin and therefore makes the cut alot easier for the saw. so if you can get s spocket you might well be able to change but might loose quite a bit of cutting speed. i stuck a bar of a ms150 on a ms170 and was amazed at how much nipier the saw was so you might experience the opposite if you do the swap to micro 3/8 the other way round. either way i'd be interested to hear how it performs
  6. go dolmar/makita!
  7. got one with a seize. pot has cleaned up good but wants a new piston. there was an air leak between what seems like a poorly designed bit of rubber. so this saw was never really running since i had it. it cost £50. are they any good? worth getting a meteor piston and a few other seals etc or are they homeuserplasticoldnonsensebettersavingmymoneyandtimeforsomethingelse? if fixed its for my pops for his firewood so will never be worked all day every day..... its a grey top one and doesn;t look like its had a too hard life. also i'm struggling to find a good husky part online dealer - suggestions please. L and S doen't seem to have the parts. thanks
  8. people say Miles machinery is good also Shavey on here is very helpful
  9. i have a 200t and an 020t as spare. i never really use it either but keep it as it could save a days work at somepoint if 200t is down. i've seen a few 020's go for 150-200 on the bay. seem that the older 020's are a wee bit less popular. best of luck! i'd seriously look at makita/dolmar/echo if you need a saw and not got loads to blow
  10. great stuff. thanks for advice
  11. read somewhere it needs 25;1 but this might be old 2 stoke oil? would normal 50;1 chainsaw mix with red stihl oil be ok? thanks bill
  12. that doesn't sound too good. heard of a brand spanking makita dcs 6400 for £450 the other day. also i'm thinking of selling my stihl 034super which is about 60cc.
  13. i've always used 12''. 14'' always seems painfully gutless after your used to a 12''
  14. billpierce

    076

    just got what seems like a beaut of a 076av. its got a 20'' bar on it which is insane! can i use a 3/8 chain and bar and sprocket on it or does it have to use 404? does anyone have a large bar that they want to part with?36 inch plus. thanks
  15. mine is really hard to engage, feels like it would bruise your wrist if needed. just looked at mine. when you say engage do you mean release? as you pull the brake handle back towards the handle it disengages the break about half an inch from the handle. you def couldn;t have yer fingers in the gap. knocking the brake on i.e pushing towards the bar feels like any other saw and both when the brake is on or off the brake handle sits back down giving you enough room for your hands on the handle. does that help?
  16. yep especially if you think of what a day or 1/2 day lost work costs too
  17. agree with durability of ash/alder compared to oak etc. however if its free and you keep it good and chunky it should still last a good while! i've a friend with cleft ash gates which are 10+ years now!. mabe sit timbers on stone so there not sat in the wet as much.
  18. i'd get a 12'' bar for it too
  19. personally i would say a 038 on a 24'' will be slightly underpowered. if the 200t is in good nick i wouldn;t sell it. you would only regret it at some point.
  20. people says keep it under 40cc for carving bars as this helps to reduce bar tip heat. i'm sure some people run larger chainsaws with carving bars though.
  21. yeah i bet it is! pics please!
  22. good vid and music! wheres the spot to get them in uk? thanks!
  23. yeah those tooless chain tensioning mechanism are definately more like tooless can't get your chain tight enoughs/ more irritating of the devastating frustration of getting a combi spanner
  24. i guess people don't bother cos its still illegal to overload and probably ends up being hard on your truck. your springs on your extra cab may also of had some abuse which is why they are sagging. i looked into getting some springs made up special to carry more weight from here i think, but they said moving 1 ton up much more than 1.5t would result in a shockingly rough ride so i didn;t bother and just got hd springs which i suppose i have regulaly overloaded and are still good!
  25. i had a shot with one in the woods, it was the fella who owned the woods. i think it was a 240 tooless chain tensioning model but might have been different. the plastic broke on first day of fairly light use. but that could have been bad luck. personally i would look at getting a proffessional good condition second model rather than buy this model new. i suppose it depends how much you will use it and how fast you will need to cut with it and how much it costs!

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