billpierce

i've always used 12''. 14'' always seems painfully gutless after your used to a 12''

just got what seems like a beaut of a 076av. its got a 20'' bar on it which is insane! can i use a 3/8 chain and bar and sprocket on it or does it have to use 404? does anyone have a large bar that they want to part with?36 inch plus. thanks

mine is really hard to engage, feels like it would bruise your wrist if needed. just looked at mine. when you say engage do you mean release? as you pull the brake handle back towards the handle it disengages the break about half an inch from the handle. you def couldn;t have yer fingers in the gap. knocking the brake on i.e pushing towards the bar feels like any other saw and both when the brake is on or off the brake handle sits back down giving you enough room for your hands on the handle. does that help?

yep especially if you think of what a day or 1/2 day lost work costs too

agree with durability of ash/alder compared to oak etc. however if its free and you keep it good and chunky it should still last a good while! i've a friend with cleft ash gates which are 10+ years now!. mabe sit timbers on stone so there not sat in the wet as much.

i'd get a 12'' bar for it too

personally i would say a 038 on a 24'' will be slightly underpowered. if the 200t is in good nick i wouldn;t sell it. you would only regret it at some point.

people says keep it under 40cc for carving bars as this helps to reduce bar tip heat. i'm sure some people run larger chainsaws with carving bars though.

yeah i bet it is! pics please!

good vid and music! wheres the spot to get them in uk? thanks!

yeah those tooless chain tensioning mechanism are definately more like tooless can't get your chain tight enoughs/ more irritating of the devastating frustration of getting a combi spanner

i guess people don't bother cos its still illegal to overload and probably ends up being hard on your truck. your springs on your extra cab may also of had some abuse which is why they are sagging. i looked into getting some springs made up special to carry more weight from here i think, but they said moving 1 ton up much more than 1.5t would result in a shockingly rough ride so i didn;t bother and just got hd springs which i suppose i have regulaly overloaded and are still good!

i had a shot with one in the woods, it was the fella who owned the woods. i think it was a 240 tooless chain tensioning model but might have been different. the plastic broke on first day of fairly light use. but that could have been bad luck. personally i would look at getting a proffessional good condition second model rather than buy this model new. i suppose it depends how much you will use it and how fast you will need to cut with it and how much it costs!

i have heavey duty springs on my pickup, they help a bit but you know, you can still get the back end dipping without too much effort. i have had no experience with those air suspensions but they sound good! not sure how much a lift it would help. expect it depends one what sort it is. folk over at hpoc.co.uk should be able to tell you straight or you'll find old posts.

would you consider a x ring instead of a small block? also have much experience using sirius bull rope instead of the other sort? is that sort of rope more forgiving? thanks

got a 660 so think it'll need to be a big step up to bother with so prob 100cc won't do it. seen those 076's in ebay £1500 quid though and i only really want the power head. there is a 090 with 60'' bar on too - fella wants 1000 for saw, 500 for bar and mill......still a lot of money.....really would like to know how the older stihls compare with modern saws for milling. sounds like folk like 'em. any reliability issues with the oldies or are they just better all round apart from weight?

can you sell us a big old dolmar? i was outrageously outbid on that 166 on ebay the other day...i'd happily take a dolmar its just finding one!

i'd say 6 is too young !but hey he might be fine! my eldest is nearly 6 and she won;t be using a saw for a few years......

dead sorry to hear. will look sharp out for it. there is an agri sale on nr me this sat so i'll have a deeks. what stihl saws was it?

Tiny-Tach: Contact page for ITCO Richard. spud pointed me to him. nice and helpful

having used an old 13mm climbing rope for years i got a 16mm marlow lowering rope. i haven't really ever used pulleys and have occaisonally used stein lowering devices which i have liked. i was amazed at using the new rope over branches at how quickly it began to glaze (very light but i wasn't lowering big bits.). so this is all probably obviously to most of you but having worked for a tree surgeon for a number of years he rarely if ever used pulleys etc and used what he described as a "bull" rope? we used the base of the tree as a brake if needed. the rope lasted for years - granted we never thrashed absolutely masssive bits down, but they certainly weren't small neither. so what kit do i want? will a strop and big d shackle be ok (its 28mm diameter steel.) or will it be too narrower apoint for the rope to go over? i don;t do loads of big dismantles just a few now and then so don;t want to go and spank lots more than i need to. of should i just get a better/tougher lowering rope? thanks for advice

i was going to say! good kind offer of free wood. too far for me!

yep well nice! how are the ones in the round doing for shrinking/cracking etc? i found cutting grids with a saw then using a combination of a felling level, crow bar and a adze with a heavey gouge made the hollowing a lot less crap on the back! nice one!

sounds ace, let me know how you get on and, have you used any other large saws for millinh for comparison?

pm sent