billpierce
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Everything posted by billpierce
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just my luck! seems to be running better in fresh fuel.
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i'll check, thanks
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right, took exaust off and gasket was the wrong side od the heat shield. popping as stopped. wierd on offy revving has ceased also, perhaps it had remnents of shite fuel in or something. its revving to 11.4k max now with a 15'' bar (without me adjusting.) so i guess its a bit on the rich side, perhaps a precaution of this overheating issue. i'll keep an eye on the plug and maybe lean it out a bit in time. its a red lead to the spark by the way. thanks
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also the exhaust is popping a bit. what?
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just got a used dcs5000, when not in the wood it seems to run rough almost like it misfires or is cutting out. does it have a limited coil? and if so is this it. it clears up and cuts fine in the cut, the spark plug looks new and has not yet really got much of a colour to it. my concern is the person i bought it from has twiddled with the H screw. when you stick a tach on it it'll rev to about 8k before it goes all over the shop. do i need to tach it in the cut? also it came wit a 18'' bar,i want to drop this to 15. is it necessary to retune when going down in bar size? i never have before and have not a problem, but it just occured to me that a significant reduction in bar size might require a a slight richening? thanks in advance
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if your really serious about milling and your buying it only as a milling saw save up for an 880 instead. kind of wish i had. but ended up with 2 660 on a double ended bar which is sweet. i wouldnt mill much over 30'' with a 660 unless you hate yourself and saw.
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ledgend
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milling oak is hard on the saws. we use 2 x ms660's on a 48'' (ish) cannon double end, which is ok, but if one saw isn't running its murder. personally i wouldnt be looking to do much over 30'' with a 440 if that. its also worth mentioning with a double ended mill you also have the option of just popping a dead saw on one end which acts as an oiler if say your milling cedar and your by yourself/ or have all the time in the world. also with mine i use 325 chain as reckon its narrower - this is what it came with when we got it second hand so haven't had the chance to try anything else yet. ( also came with 2 x 9t 325 sprockets for the 660s).
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jet hoist have done fine by me, bujt it only comes out to play occaisonally. i have a makita dcs230t which i always use until i need a 60cc saw in tree. its only got a 10'' bar but since i have had it the 200t hardly comes out. so light!
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and in terms of second hand models?
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so i have got a bit muddled, but can someone clarify- if i'm looking to buy a makita/dolamr 5000 or similar which are the models/years to avoid? also i use red stihl oil on all saws is this going to be a bother?
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nought like a bit of soily wood cutting eh?
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thanks adw, is there a difference between the white top, orange and grey? i found a part diagram on the web but thanks for the offer. cheers
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Panthermill - does anybody have experience with this?
billpierce replied to biofix's topic in Milling Forum
i think the main advantages of chainsaw milling is that you move it to the log and you can mill wide. i wouldn't want a chainsaw mill which is a pain to move around/can't mill very wide as it is a slow and fuel inefficient process. personally i'd just get an alaskan if you haven't already. if you have lots of small gauge wood to mill i'd take it to a saw mill. -
the stihl micro chain is well thin and therefore makes the cut alot easier for the saw. so if you can get s spocket you might well be able to change but might loose quite a bit of cutting speed. i stuck a bar of a ms150 on a ms170 and was amazed at how much nipier the saw was so you might experience the opposite if you do the swap to micro 3/8 the other way round. either way i'd be interested to hear how it performs
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go dolmar/makita!
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got one with a seize. pot has cleaned up good but wants a new piston. there was an air leak between what seems like a poorly designed bit of rubber. so this saw was never really running since i had it. it cost £50. are they any good? worth getting a meteor piston and a few other seals etc or are they homeuserplasticoldnonsensebettersavingmymoneyandtimeforsomethingelse? if fixed its for my pops for his firewood so will never be worked all day every day..... its a grey top one and doesn;t look like its had a too hard life. also i'm struggling to find a good husky part online dealer - suggestions please. L and S doen't seem to have the parts. thanks
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people say Miles machinery is good also Shavey on here is very helpful
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i have a 200t and an 020t as spare. i never really use it either but keep it as it could save a days work at somepoint if 200t is down. i've seen a few 020's go for 150-200 on the bay. seem that the older 020's are a wee bit less popular. best of luck! i'd seriously look at makita/dolmar/echo if you need a saw and not got loads to blow
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great stuff. thanks for advice
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read somewhere it needs 25;1 but this might be old 2 stoke oil? would normal 50;1 chainsaw mix with red stihl oil be ok? thanks bill
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that doesn't sound too good. heard of a brand spanking makita dcs 6400 for £450 the other day. also i'm thinking of selling my stihl 034super which is about 60cc.
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i've always used 12''. 14'' always seems painfully gutless after your used to a 12''
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just got what seems like a beaut of a 076av. its got a 20'' bar on it which is insane! can i use a 3/8 chain and bar and sprocket on it or does it have to use 404? does anyone have a large bar that they want to part with?36 inch plus. thanks
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mine is really hard to engage, feels like it would bruise your wrist if needed. just looked at mine. when you say engage do you mean release? as you pull the brake handle back towards the handle it disengages the break about half an inch from the handle. you def couldn;t have yer fingers in the gap. knocking the brake on i.e pushing towards the bar feels like any other saw and both when the brake is on or off the brake handle sits back down giving you enough room for your hands on the handle. does that help?
