billpierce

yes def the pokiest 43cc saw i've used. light too. with a sharp chain i'd believe it was a 50cc!

the wood fired ones with the stove submerged in the water are exellent

buy half whisky barrel?

yep agree totally, good tool, impossible to sand flat. the 9'' one lets you sit it right down flat on the wood. kingspor made great 4.5''pads!

the discs have a centre hole. the threaded bit from the grinder runs through the centre of of the pad, through the disc and to a special m14 nut which sits flush in the pad (doesn't rub against the wood when in use.) the nut can be undone with standard grinder tool/spanner thing. these big grinders are only really appropriate if your doing reasonably large surfaces. wear gloves it really hurts when you gouge your hands on 24 grit, or when you hit a weird bit and the pad rips up.... also very heavy for any vertical sanding - best if its sitting on the surface your sanding.

here is a some quick little twig whittles on from some long winter nights- made using a carvin' jack and a mora 120 knife (oh and a silky)

flexcut! i love 'em! stinging sharp and forgiving, they used to come with a free plaster too! if he is serious about carving they are well worth it - don't know what sort of size thing he would be after making but i got 175 or these for slightly smaller. he will also need a mallet and wetstone probs. axminster won;t be the cheapest but you can work out what they might want from their website...... don't get some cheap ebay ones! they'll prob be blunt and just put him off! my dad bought me one gouge chisel one christmas which combined with an axe and a mortice chisel was enough to get me well stuck in also might consider just getting him a mora whittling knife instead as you can carve some amazing things with one of these and need little else in terms of vices etc. or a carving jack from flexcut is also good fun links are just so you can see what i'm on about rather than best places to buy.

got a load of bosch ones cheap off ebay. in my experience you get what you pay for with sanding discs. cheap tool station ones (not that they do 9'') just fall to bits when your on an edge. you really have to watch for burning when you up the grits (100 ish) and you'll have to sweep the sander across, lift up to give it air for a second then sweep - but it's still insanely fast compared to other good quality sanders i have used. you can also shape/round edges a good bit with this grinders. wahey!

yes those sanders are good, but changing up the grades is not so good.....if you have a bit to do and re likely to in he future i'd get a 9'' disc sander with a 2000W makita grinder (i paid about 75 quid new for mine). honestly you'll be amazed how fast they are, especially when you have to take off quite a bit to get rid of chainsaw marks.....

i use one of these 9'' angle grinder backing pads for sanding all my outdoor benches/tables. you can get a mean 24 grit and can go to 100 grit before it starts burning the wood bad. serious time saver compared to orbitals/belt sanders, but you have to have steady hand or you can get some wobbly boards.....

spot on, pm sent!

good stuff!

i wish the big estates still did things like this. the ones near me just seem to be taking out all the big hedge row trees and not replacing!

also anchor supplies do army surplus and have some reet hardcore tarps

great! is the bar wearing any more than normal? i got the tip to open a bit pretty soon with mine on a ms170 - but was doing more carving/nose abuse than you would up a tree. no snapped chains?

get sheets of tin, stick it on top with a nice overhang, weigh it down. lets the wood dry much better! and it won't just get shredded by the wind.

so i have a 345 and a jonny 2152 on the "bench" today... 345, starts, runs and cuts fine but seems to have a slightly irratic idle sometimes 4000 rpm sometimes 2800, after revving up it takes a while to get revs down to normal idle speed (but the chain does stop spinning ok.). other symptom is that it pretty much always has to be started on half throttle (even on hot start.) and it wont ever rev over 11000 whatever the H screw is set to. i don;t think its tuning related as i have spend a good while tweeking both the idle and L screw and as soon as i think its sorted i start the saw later and its idling high again......carb has been cleaned and pressure checked. whats next? 2152 a friends saw - he changed the piston and pot for cheap one after seizure, now it runs but trigger response is terrible like you could have a cuppa while waiting for the chain to get up to speed, and again slow to slow down.....doesn;t seem to have any power in the cut neither.....i've just boiled the carb up but suspect this isn;t going to sort it. suggestions? thanks

agree you woud have thought that would do it! especially if beech is doing fine. i do mine outside stacked with a sheet of tin on top in a windy spot

right well i'm obviously doing something wrong. look up the jotul 404 yourself if your interested!

oh, well that didn't work. here is jotul 602 and the 404 cooker

i flat top for me too. lots of stoves have a special hot plate on the top with fins on the bottom like the legendary jotul 602 personally i have a waterford erin (sp?) which is good. we also have a rayburn like the esse's which does our hot water, rads and cooking - great but we prob do a wheel barrow or there abouts o f wood per day (peak winter)......so beware if your looking at an esse/ironheart you'll be fair tanning the wood if you try to do something which will do rads, baths, cook and heat the room this look mint jotul 404 and only cook and space heat which is probably a good thing... and i have one of these which is an amazing space heater and cooker

be interesting to know what moisture content they are? can usually burn oak fine after a year and a half, sometimes 2 .....don;t spose you have a meter? i take it all other wood in your poly tunnel seasons good?

absolute bargain here ps32 for £155

pal of mine had a tranny with rear diff lock. much better than standard!

also before you buy any saw check availability of 1/4 sprockets if thats what you are using (personally i cant recommend it enough.)...certain saws are harder to source 1/4 sprockets for.