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About GardenKit

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  • Birthday 19/04/1956

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  1. Hi Steve... I'm still around and look in on Arbtalk quite regularly, but with you covering all the questions so well there is no need for me to comment🤪 Still busy as ever, in fact even busier just at present. Those Stihl coils are not the most reliable as you say, and its always worth checking before pulling carbs off as its such an easy check to make. Failure is usually preceded by some stuttering and popping though, they seldom just pack in instantly in my experience.
  2. My money is on the ignition module (coil, if you prefer). It's quite common on this model. Easily tested with a spark tester. Just to be 100% sure whip the recoil cover off and pull the kill wire off to eliminate a short in the kill circuit. Put recoil cover back on and test the spark.
  3. Devon is a big county Paul , I guess you are nowhere near me?
  4. This guy lives within a mile of us, so its not an issue. But he was working a couple of miles away and still left the job until the next morning after he had come into us at 7:30am for more Aspen. Would not consider using Petrol again.
  5. This thread makes very interesting reading and its great to see so many very positive comments on Aspen from those who use it and have felt the benefits first hand. It is also quite interesting to see that the negative comments seem to be, on the whole, from people who have never used Aspen and have no actual experience of it. After 9 years of selling Aspen fuel in ever increasing volume, I get literally thousands of users giving me feed back every time they come in for more. All of the feedback is extremely positive and it never ceases to amaze me how incredibly pleased these folk are that I introduced them to Aspen in the first place. When I introduce Aspen to a new customer there is always some degree of disbelief and a raised eyebrow about the price, but they usually give it a try on my recommendation. The next thing I know is that they are in my shop for more and telling complete strangers how good it is. The price really does not matter to them. I also had a case just this week of a small, professional user who had run out of Aspen whilst hedgecutting and flatly refused to complete the work until he had a new supply of Aspen, even though he was working next to a filling station! Very few Aspen users will ever willingly convert back to petrol.
  6. I am having great success with the Stiga 500 series of cordless mowers. New for the 2019 season this mower has exceeded the expectations of myself and my customers. The 6 model range all use steel decks that have been proven over time on the Stiga petrol powered models. These sturdy and stiff decks have stood up to the vibration and stress from petrol engines for many years, so the smooth running 1500w electric motors will cause no problems to these decks at all. Power is supplied by two compact 48v batteries that discharge together, and evenly. These batteries are compact enough that one can be used on its own in the 500 series hand held machines. There are only self propelled models in the range, and each has the ability to operate the variable speed forward motion independently of the blade. Great for driving the mower under power over loose paths etc. My customers are reporting run times of well over an hour when used with 2 x5ah batteries and around an hour when used with 2 x 4ah batteries. A Combi 43 SQ DAE (42cm) mower currently sells at £419. Two 4ah batteries at £119 each will add £238 to the price with a further £29 required for a standard charger. Total price £686, not the cheapest battery mower out there, but it is a properly built, steel bodied mower with a 60 litre grassbag, side discharge option and mulch kit included. Well worth a look at your local Stiga dealer
  7. Thank you for finding that information Paul, I should probably have delved a little deeper myself!
  8. I am still a little confused as to what Motomix actually is. The UK Stihl website is vague and only describes it as an ethanol free unleaded petrol that is premixed and will stay fresh for 5 years. Thats fair enough, but nowhere does it mention that the fuel is an alkylate (except on the Californian spec), and if this is so then the fuel still contains solvents, benzene and sulphur, as well as many other nasty chemicals. The UK still site does say that Motomix varies according to the market country. If this is true Motomix is every bit as bad for health as standard petrol, and also massively overpriced. Can anybody enlighten me on what Motomix really is?
  9. If an engine will not start on FRESH petrol it certainly will not start on Aspen as Aspen is very slightly less volatile than fresh petrol (but far more volatile than old petrol), so in this instance do not waste your money, but save it for when you have your saw fixed, then use Aspen to go forwards. There is a certain amount of truth in that some engines will benefit from a carb overhaul prior to using Aspen, but in most of these cases the carb needs overhauling anyway, even to run on petrol. The vast majority of quality, modern engines will convert to Aspen with no issues. Some fuel lines and grommets will harden, as others have said, but not all. Better quality rubbers such as the more recent green Stihl ones, and Ethanol proof Tygon will likely not have suffered from petrol damage and will not shrink or harden when the petrol is removed/ Cheap, chinese products tend to use really rubbish fuel lines and grommets which fall apart in 12 months anyway when exposed to petrol, but last indefinatley if only subjected to Aspen from new. Just putting the record straight😀
  10. Back in the 60.s Aston Martin's had revolving 4 sided ones.
  11. Are you sure the belts is Ok? Make sure it's tight, also ensure that it's not contaminated with oil from a leaky engine. Also check that's it's a genuine belt. Only worry about the axle after being really sure of the belt
  12. Don't believe everything you read. I have sold many hundreds of transaxle driven mowers (many on JD) yet only replaced 2 or 3. The ones I did replace were down to gear failure of the differentials on machines that were being used for towing trailers of soil on sitework where a lot of wheelspin was experienced. I have never replaced a transaxle on a 100 series JD and still look after some 20 plus year old machines on original axles. Anyway, Doobin, you have bought one, is the transmission OK in yours?
  13. The X165 is an excellent 48" cut machine, but best suited to side discharge or mulching. It will collect if fitted with the optional rear mounted 2 bag collector, but just like all side pipe collector machines it will be prone to blocking if subject to high volumes of grass, or high density (wet) material. If collecting keep the speed down and don't cut log grass. Avoid damp grass. Not quite sure what you mean by "a high lift bag", only the one option of collector is available for the X165, but if collecting make sure you have the "high lift" blades fitted. On a used machine watch out for rust in the deck, especially around the deck hangers and the belt tension pulley mounting. The bearings in the blade spindles can get very noisy and the bearings in the belt pulleys need checking. The chassis and engine are generally no problem and transaxle issues are rare. The front wheels rotate on bushes rather than bearings and need regular greasing or the bushes wear, as well as the stub shaft, which makes the wheels lean out and upsets the steering camber angle The front axle is cast iron, but has a tendency to bend if the mower is used over rough ground. The king pins bend rearwards at the bottom and effect the caster angle, as well as the alignment, making really hard steering. Hope this helps.
  14. Mike. Inlet valves 5-7thou, Ex valve 7-9thou. The primer does not suck fuel on these engines, it applies some pressure directly into the carb float chamber which pushes down on the fuel level, which in turn squirts some up into the carb throat. The bulb needs to seal in its housing, and the housing needs to seal against the carb or some pressure can be lost. Also, if the primer is in the housing, as I suspect, rather then the remote type, some pressure can be lost through the little white hose tail on the right of there carb, just above the fuel hose. This hose tail can be removed and sealed by melting the tip with a lighter flame (do it away from the carb) before reinserting into carb. The tail is just there for when remote primers are used and the pump pressure pulse is fed to this tail by a pipe. Hope this helps
  15. Testing saves time and frustration. The first thing I would do is run it until it cuts out, then do a spark test. Failed coils give exactly these symptoms and are the quickest to diagnose.


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