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About muldonach

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 11/01/1958

Personal Information

  • Location:
  • Interests
    shooting, fishing, diving and hillwalking
  • Occupation
    Marine consultant farmer and forestry owner
  • City
    There are no cities in SW Scotland

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  1. Appreciate your comments thanks - and good one on the radiators although to be honest most of the upstairs ones are throttled right in so would possibly just need TRVs at one end and the other end opened right up. Would I be right in thinking bigger is better for the thermal store?
  2. We are a little bit at cross purposes I think - the only components of the system that I would prefer not to change if possible is the piping to the radiators - everything else can be changed without too much hassle. So we are looking at a brand new install as far as major system compontents and control goes The present stove has 4 ports so one pair services the DHW cylinder as I understand it and the other pair service the central heating circuit although both outlets are at same temp. There is a thermostat on the side of the DHW tank which switches on the central heating circ pump at a set temp (or rather there should be - it has not worked in years and is manually switched). I have no absolute temp available - but the circuit gets PBH to the extent that the stove needs to be shut in at times - so boiler outlet temp can reach into 90's no problem. Not sure where you are coming from with comments on stove lighting etc - I would regard that as design detail - but yes it would need to be addressed. The house is permanently occupied so the system is not going to be started from total cold on many occasions.
  3. Central heating is via radiators - no underfloor at present and would be pretty major surgery to fit.
  4. We live in a detached rural property approx 80m2 ground footprint and on two levels so total 160m2 floor area. The property is reasonably well insulated - half of it is stone construction with an internal dry lining which has 4" insulation fitted, the other half is of block construction with internal cavity wall the loft has 6" insulation, the modern part is double glazed and the older part has secondary glazing so we are happy enough with that. For the last 25 years we have heated it with a Hunter Midi 20 multifuel with wraparound boiler and a central heating system which has been fine. The stove is in the lounge and exhausts into an old stone chimney (unlined) via 2m of 6" stainless faired into the chimney with a weak mortar mix. A second chimney runs up alongside this (presently unused). There is no other heat source available i.e. no mains gas and no currently fitted stand-alone gas or oil tank. The only heat storage presently available is a domestic hot water tank - well insulated but low capacity and no real heat exchange capability to the central heating. The stove is well past its normal life expectancy and due for a replacement and the weakness of the system is the lack of heat availability in the early morning or evening if we have been out all day (less of an issue) so I am planning to change the stove and rebuild the chimney to a modern standard. I would also like to fit a buffer tank to allow heat storage and provide for early morning heating, there is no space in the existingchouse to fit a decent sized tank nor is the house presently engineered to accommodate it or get it into place. I have my own supply of timber and plenty of kit to process transport and store firewood, although the present stove is multifuel it has not seen anything but timber since the kids believed in santa - more than 20 years. We do not have sufficient space available for a chip store and feed system I have space to build a gable- end extension of about 5 x 5metres and have previously had PP to do so, I am intending to renew that permission and fit a buffer tank in the new extension. I am pretty confident that a decent sized stove in the lounge would provide adequate heat for the entire house but I am not sure that this is the best option going forward - I have the option to install a gasification log burner in the extension and use that as a primary heat source with a much smaller stove in the lounge as either a roomheater or as a secondary heat source to the buffer tank. The extension would be built as a workshop with a heating system in it rather than a living space So - questions:- 1. Given that a nominal 20KW stove (and in practice a good bit less) has given satisfactory results I am confident that that rating is plenty and we should be looking a buffer tank of min 1000 ltr with a natural tendency to oversize a bit I would probably be looking at 1500ltr but would appreciate any comments on capacity requirements especially from comparable houses. 2. If I go for a stand- alone stove in the lounge does anyone have any recommendations in the 15-20Kw range? 3. Any recommendations (or otherwise) on gasification boilers? I would be looking at 20Kw size? 4. If I go with a boiler in the extension I would be looking at an approx 5Kw stove in lounge as roomheater or a larger stove with boiler hooked up to buffer. They would be serviced by separate chimneys, - comments welcome. 4. Does anyone have any experience of hooking up two fueled heat sources to a buffer tank - any problems to head off? 5. Anyone out there got a case study of any similar project?
  5. what you are apparently looking for is something to cut a small amount of excess length off - processors and circular saws generally have an end stop that you butt the timber end up to and then push it against or activate the blade - in the example you give there will be 25cm of timber on one side and 5cm on the other - the snag is that that 5cm piece is where you (or the machine) would normally be holding or pushing the timber - you would be using the machine in a different manner to that intended and your hands are likely to be far to close to cutting implements. 2 - if it will go into the splitting chamber and engage with both ram and splitting knife it will be fine - but it is also a bit tedious.
  6. 1. You need a jig that one end of the log can sit against while you cut the excess length off - you can achieve this by using a rocking beam circular saw or a processor - but it is a seriously bad idea and very dangerous in my view - make a jig you can throw your rounds on to with a length indication that will not get in the way of a chainsaw - don't put a lot of time into it because you will throw it away pretty quickly 2. Hit it with an axe or run a chainsaw through it
  7. Logs jamming against stumps will cause an increase in tension - but since your wire is sized for first layer pull it will not be undue unless you go at it bald headed - what it will do is cause a rip-down on the winch drum if there is loose laid wire to rip down into. What will cause a sharp rise in tension is getting a log moving and horsing it into a stump with the winch flat out The tension in the wire tries to straighten out the strands - if you put a swivel on the end this effect will be magnified as the swivel allows the wire to unlay.
  8. Yes - 7 strands - one as central core and the other 6 laid up around the independent wire rope core - each strand consisting of 19 sub-strands - good general purpose wire rope with good wear & deformation resistance
  9. It's caused by pulling the wire through the sliders under tension and at sharp angles - i.e. slider a bit out of line / twisted - as others in the thread have said if you leave a few links of chain between log and slider you can mitigate it a bit, when you set up your drag try to set it up so that it pulls logically and avoid back pulling if that makes sense - i.e the swage end should be at the furthest away log, second slider next one etc etc Langs lay is just a bit more flexible than RHOL - the more fibre you have in a wire rope the more flexible it will be but conversely it will be more prone to deformation and damage and less hard wearing Helps a bit if you do not overfill the winch drums - less prone to ripping down and overcrossing
  10. You need to be real careful of woodburning stoves and firewood - you never know where you might end up
  11. I am at work today and will be tomorrow and for the forseeable future ............. There is currently no way back from Saudi Arabia and no way for anyone to get in to relieve me so I guess I am staying for a while.
  12. We have had mixed results with the bags - they let the logs dry ok but some of them really do not like UV and we have had several where we only get one use out of the bag which makes them pricy. Moving to IBC cages as and when possible As others have said use a pallet between each bag and don't make a tight stack - let the wind through
  13. Yes no problem as long as you refer to SW Scotland - they are out at roadside
  14. Here's one we did earlier - all extracted by quad over a bridge we built on site
  15. I read through 30 pages of a pretty interesting thread (sad but not too much else to do at the moment) And then got to the last page where it all went south, to go back to forestry here's some low impact stuff


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