billpierce
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Everything posted by billpierce
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Looks great
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Agree, 260 over a 251 anyday
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Get a decent second hand saw. There are a few reputable people on Ebay but be slightly careful
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Do you have another your prefer/ harder wearing? I got some 16mn marlow, which is fine but glazes real easy if rubbing on anything.
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Interested but would need some pics please
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Get a li ion dremel and some dinosaw diamond stones fro. Chainsawbars.co.uk. It's a fanny on taking the chainsaw off a mill then the chain off everytime you want a sharpen. The diamond ones can be done with it the mill together and are quick. You do need a good eye got sharpening like with a file however. The cheapo diamond stones last half a chain or so before they are knackered. The dinosaw ones seen to be holding up well
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I like the teufelberger Sirius bull rope. Seems tough and heat ( natural crotch) resistant.
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Cheers mark
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Are they chainsaw boots Paul? Or silky only jobs?
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2 of us got a cs100 8 or 9 front steps, through a house, very tight kitchen and out a conservatory a few months ago. Had to kind of walk the wheels up the steps. Doable but straight lifting it clear of ground very hard work. That wasnt stripped down at all. They were not very tight 850mm doors either
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Prolly this is the hardest wearing. Not used on my topper yet, only on 44. Lasting well so far
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https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/chainsawbars-selector/
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I would just stick it through some oak. Or if it's going to be a while before next use another it in bar oil and this may stop the sap setting rock hard
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L and s engineers
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For selling sawn timber? I might use it but very sporadically and generally I.e fat beech boards available etc.... Not too keen on the dropped pin thing tbh Steve, I deliberately off set my so not a pin point exactly to my yard. Possibly a bit paranoid but there you go.
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Cheers matty. I'd totally forgot about that mandrake in pans labyrinth! I have to try and make some mechanism to make this thing scream/ do something magic. Not sure how that's going to work yet
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Getting there now. Bit more on the blow torch and a few tweaks and itll be done, ready to deliver
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I'd go 365. Well tested and good torque
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It can be done with a pillar drill and some very steady 1mm cutting discing.
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If you have the option of an 880 for milling, I'd use that everytime. I have used my 660 for milling once since I got one. I run an 084 and an 880 double ender on the mill no probs. I think your new 880 and old one will be totally fine and miles better than a 88 and 661
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https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/60273-dolmar-133-bar-greater-than-20quot/
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Its fiddly. Bit if thin wire with hook/long nosed pliers/ magnetic stick. Once you have enough poked through from oil tank, you can hold the threads and locate the square end in the tank. Pita
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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F293016409967 This is the shizzle. Expensive and there may be cheaper options. But the time saved by not having to redo it constantly/ being able to easy reapply it pays for its self real quick
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I'd go for an obliterating oil rather than a paint. Itll let the wood breathe, keep it protected and is easy to over oil down the line, rather than having to sand old flakey paint off, just give it a wash an Bosh more on. Hard to bare the thought of but I would consider getting some preserver on all the timber between the t and g /ship lap as water will inevitably seep and and degrade the softwood pretty fast.
